Adding a terminals strip for autopilot

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hump180

Hey everyone, I am think of adding an autopilot this winter and am brainstorming how to get power to it. My OEM terminal strips and distribution panel are all used. I thought of adding a terminal strip in the battery compartment, but the question then would be how to fuse it and how to switch the power on to the autopilot. I would like the auopilot to be at the panel but I cannot think of how to do it. Has anyone added terminal strip capaicity or wired in new switches to operate new equipment??
Bill
Bill, Grace Under Pressure, 1990, M-25XP #1026
Western Lake Erie

dgill

#1
Yes.  I removed the aft cabin bulkhead panel and placed the terminal strip on the starboard side piece of wood that supports the CNG tank and is aft of the pedestal, just above the aft H2O tank.  I put the control head to the auto pilot on the starboard side of the cockpit between the aft seat and the end of the starboard seat.  My boat is a 1987.  I then wired in a new seperate 30amp switch solely dedicated to the autopilot.  I placed the "on/off" switch  in the port side sliding door cabinet in the chase that covers the hoses and wires coming from the battery and holding tank etc., just forward of the main electric panel.  I also have a seperate switch there for the anchor wash down pump.  The wires for the autopilot power* were routed through the head and through the port side lazerette.  Hope this is helpful.

*The power to the wheel portion was routed through the pedestal, while the other wiring went to the control head on the starboard coaming.
First Point of Aries
1987 - Hull # 389
located on Lake Ogleton, Annapolis, Md

Ken Juul

I spliced mine into the power line from the Navigation switch on the Distribution panel.  A terminal strip probably would have been easier but I didn't think of it.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Stu Jackson

#3
Yes, our PO did something like that, however, I'm still not sure where the power actually comes from!  :shock:  We have an ST3000 which has a plug for the removable control head in the cockpit (each time we go out we replace it on a bracket, the motor is "permanently" mounted on the binnacle attached to the drive belt and a wheel drum).  That three pronged plug has the power wiring as well as optional control wiring which we do not use.  The power coming to the plug in the lazarette has a simple toggle switch mounted through the vertical face below the helmsman's seat.  You can either splice or use a terminal strip to connect to power anywhere you choose.

The picture shows the control head, its power plug next to it, the old plug that was used for the older control head, and the toggle switch below it.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

waterdog

#4
So many goodies.  So few switches.  

I put in a whole panel on the shelf above the existing panel.   I have SSB, VHF, Stereo, and a new dc subpanel with 6 breakers and six toggle switches.   I thought it would be plenty.   Just wired in new overhead LED cockpit lights and now they are gone.   The other five went to autopilot, watermaker, anchor/masthead tri, cabin lights (old circuit was overloading), & radar.

A new negative bus in behind the old panel was installed to cope with all the additions.   

Autopilots can be sensitive to voltage and you may want to take the time to dedicate a circuit to it.   You don't want to turn left every time you go below for a pee and turn on the light in the head.

My old autopilot is kind of like Stu's.  The mystery power was coming off the "ignition" switch.  
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

I actually found enough room on my existing distribution panel to drill two more holes to add two toggle switches for my auto pilot and navpod instruments. I ran new wires and used in line automotive type blade fuses. Of course you want to open up the panel to make sure the back side is clear.

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

hump180

Steve, where did you get the power for your new panel? did you wire it to the battery selector switch? Also, where did you get the panel.
Bill, Grace Under Pressure, 1990, M-25XP #1026
Western Lake Erie

horsemel

Two or three months ago Nigel Calder had an article in Sail Magazine that specifically talked about proper fusing.  Worth a read.
Mark Mueller
Mark & Melinda Mueller
Blue Moon, Hull #815
1988

waterdog

Bill:

I did wire the new panel direct to the selector switch.    I bought the panel at a local marine store - Steveston Marine (By the way, I think I've been in every marine store on the West Coast now).   It was just a cheap one, I think less than a hundred dollars, but it fit well in the space.   It has illuminated toggles which I have really come to like.  My favourite switch is a three position one:  UP is anchor which we leave on when anchored day and night, the masthead LED tri anchor light shuts itself off, MIDDLE is off, DOWN is the running lights.   So you can't do stupid things like turn on your anchor light and leave your running lights going.   And we will always do stupid things if given the opportunity.   


Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat