Cutlass bearing

pjcomeau · May 12, 2008, 07:24:07 AM

I'm running out of time before launch and prioritizing my work load.

There is significant movement in my shaft. I know the cutlass bearing needs replacement and the original bronze shaft probably needs to go also.

I would like to wait until the end of season (4 months worth) to do the job.

I thought of just replacing the cutlass bearing, but can't find anyone with tool to replace it without removing shaft.
The shaft coupling is extremely rusted and would like to avoid touching it until end of season (work on it during fall/winter/next spring).

Assuming I'm willing to put up with the vibration for the season; if I do nothing right now, what am I damaging?

Thanks,

Pierre

Ray & Sandy Erps · May 12, 2008, 08:07:07 AM

True story:

On a previous boat (Islander 28) I started getting some vibration from a worn cutlass bearing. On our three week vacation, the alternator broke off its mounting bolt the first night out. I carry a bunch of tools with me, so I drilled out the broken grade 5 bolt and replaced it with a grade 8 bolt. Two days later, the alternator broke off again. This time my harder bolt held, only it broke the mounting ear off the timing chain cover, exposing the timing chain and slinging oil inside the engine compartment. We sailed into the nearest marina. I bevel filed the edges on the aluminum engine cover and Marine-Texed it back together then made a card board template for a new alternator mount that I took into town. A machine shop machined me a new bracket so I could mount the alterntor again and we finished our vacation with that awful feeling in our gut wondering if we would make it back home without any further break downs.

Anyway, we hauled the boat that fall and changed the shaft and cutlass bearing and I was amazed at how much smoother the engine was. With the gradual wearing of the cutlass bearing, I was aware there was a little vibration but just wasn't aware how bad it was until we had everything brand new again to compare it to.

So, you might get by this summer just fine, but you could do some damage you never even anticipated too. How's that for a wishy-washy answer?

tonywright · May 12, 2008, 08:29:53 AM

A good mechanic can quickly make a tool to press out the bearing: mine did. If you have significant movement, then it is likely that the cutlass bearing is pretty much worn through. Once this happens, the shaft will get scored and or bent and will need to be replaced. To replace it without dropping the rudder, the bearing has to come out anyway (see many earlier discussions on this topic).

You are risking some transmission damage as well, since you are stressing the transmission. I would also be concerned about the stuffing box.

Short answer: definitely worth fixing now. It is by far your cheapest and safest option.

Tony

pjcomeau · May 13, 2008, 08:04:31 PM

Due to severe flooding our launch has been delayed for at least 2 1/2 weeks.

I've decided to go ahead and remove the shaft. Now what else should I do after prop is removed:

I've had my eye on the Kiwi prop.
PSS shaft seal (what about "Stern Tube Outside Diameter" for 1988 model)

I have to decide if BullFlex coupling is really worth it (which one do we use Type 1 or 2?). Kiwi owners what do you have for coupling and anything talked about in this message?
A new shaft. SS sing Kiwi hub is SS.

If I go SS, then what about the Cutlass? Common brass or "non metallic (e.g. Johnson Duramax)?

I've removed the nuts on the Prop end and bolts and set screws on the coupler (not as rusted thru as I thought), but nothing want to move/detach. The prop puller started to slit the end of the shaft (dimple was growing and starting to split so I stopped for the night). As for the coupler end I'm not sure how to get shaft out. Heat???

Thanks,

Pierre

Kyle Ewing · May 14, 2008, 07:20:35 AM

To remove the shaft from the coupler I used a steering wheel puller (see http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/pullers_specialized/steering_wheel.htm). I had to trim the long screw for it to fit but it worked well.

Steve Sayian · May 14, 2008, 07:34:19 AM

Pierre,

I have a Kiwi with the standard 1" Universal Engine coupler and bronze shaft.

Steve

pjcomeau · May 14, 2008, 09:02:06 AM

Kyle,

What about removing the coupler from the transmission. I removed the 4 bolts and tugged a bit but nothing came apart.

Steve,

Thanks. I think I'll order another standard coupler. Catalina Direct has it for $85 dollars. where else could I look? I'll decide on shaft once the old one is removed and inspected.

Pierre

Steve Sayian · May 14, 2008, 09:31:00 AM

Pierre,

I bought my coupler last year from a local propeller house here in the Boston area. Paid about $55.00.

Why not Google 'propellers' and see what you get in your local area?

Steve

Kyle Ewing · May 14, 2008, 10:18:49 AM

Its been years since I took my coupler off the transmission, but if I remember correctly I used a screw driver as a chisel and hammer to pry it apart. I'm in fresh water so it wasn't that corroded.

I found this page that describes the process. It might be useful. http://www.diybob.com/diyShaftRemoval.htm. Read it carefully, the sliding hammer described actually damaged the author's transmission.

tonywright · May 14, 2008, 12:00:29 PM

FYI I ordered my shaft directly from Catalina. It was stainless, and came complete with a new coupler, new bolts etc. 1 season later in fresh water, it still gleams like new.

I believe that the method my mechanic used to remove the shst from the coupler was to insert a 7/8 socket between end of the shaft and the transmission, and use longer bolts in the existing holes. As you slowly tighten, the shaft is pushed out.

Tony

pjcomeau · May 15, 2008, 10:34:52 AM

I'm still working on getting the prop and coupler off. Did not have time yesterday to work on it.

I would like to see if Catalina has the shaft in stock, but I'm not sure of the length.

Was the Length for a 1988 with the M25-XP standard (I'm assuming so)? Does anyone have the length?

Also unless someone recommends another shaft seal. I'll get a PSS. Does anyone know what the "stern tube dimension" I need to get (one previous message mentioned 1-1/2, is this correct for my boat)?

Thanks,

Pierre

Michael · May 19, 2008, 11:16:51 PM

Pierre, a simple "tool" made of a length of ready rod, four washers (two on each end), and two nuts (one on each end) can be used to pull the cutless bearing into place.

crieders · May 20, 2008, 05:51:47 AM

I found a place on line that would rent the tool ! You can also buy one; fairly expensive but a friend made one for me and it works well.

Roc · May 20, 2008, 09:43:21 AM

Would a gear puller, rented from autoparts store work?

pjcomeau · May 20, 2008, 11:01:10 AM

Thanks guys for all your suggestions!

I ended up removing the shaft (by cutting it). cutting the bearing and pulling it out.

My next problem will be putting the new bearing in. As recommended by others, I will be putting new shaft in first and this should allow me to get by rudder.

Could I use washers with 1" opening and a small piece of steel tube (just over 4" longer then remaining length of shaft past strut) also with 1" opening and tap the bearing in?

Thanks