Holding tank

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Ken Juul

Has anyone found a way to minimize the smell from the holding tank vent that wafts downwind when the head is flushed?  I've tried RV products, KO and the other products that Peggy Hall mentions, but nothing seems to work.  I don't mind spending money on something that works, but so far the boat units I've spent trying are wasted.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Stu Jackson

#1
Ken, the solution is found in Peggie's book: increase the size of the vent and get it off that silly stanchion.  The routing of our holding tank vents is one of the worst.  The kinks found in the factory installed hose are notorious.  We've installed a 90 degree elbow above the nav station where the vent goes up to the stanchion, but that's not a good fix.  The idea is to get as large a vent line to the tank to promote aerobic action in the tank which will itself make the smells go away.  Peggie's discussion of heads and holding tanks was earlier posted on our FAQ section, but had to be removed when she published her book.  I've emailed you the article.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Tom Soko

Ken,
I've had very good results with a carbon filter in the vent line.  There is no longer that god-awful odor when someone flushes the head.  Actually, no odor at all.  WM and others sell it for around $70.  I've heard that you can achieve the same results with HD plumbing parts cobbled together for 1/3 the cost, but haven't done it myself.  Hope this helps.
Tom Soko
"Juniper" C400 #307
Noank, CT

Ed Shankle

I tried the carbon filter a few years back and didn't have much luck with it. In addition, any water that trickles into the vent got trapped in the filter rather than flowing down the tube where it can be coaxed into the tank.
The concern I have with Peggy's solution is that the gas from anaerobic activity is there regardless of the vent size. It seems to me if you want the aerobic activity to dominate, a greater airflow in the holding tank must be achieved, and that's not going to happen passively thru the vent tube.
My theory is, the more you use the head, the better, as it introduces more oxygen to the tank, supporting aerobic growth. I think using the head only intermittenly, is the problem. Last season, as an experiment, I started pumping air into the tank via the waste pump outlet on the weekend, using the dingy footpump. It seemed to help going from weekend to weekend.
So I think the solution is to figure out a way to introduce air to the tank in a better manner than the footpump. Maybe an aquarium pump? then the amps issue....

Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Larry Robertie

Quote from: Ed Shankle on May 03, 2007, 08:57:11 AM

So I think the solution is to figure out a way to introduce air to the tank in a better manner than the footpump. Maybe an aquarium pump? then the amps issue....

Ed

Ed, I think you are right on with this.  In fact West Marine has started selling something very similar to the aquarium pump, albeit obscenely priced! 

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/70875/0/0/holding%20tank/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0

I think there is a better way, by combining a cheap battery powered aquarium pump and a solar panel.

This is the pump I bought - http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.aspx?R=7204&Nav=1&N=0&Ntt=battery+pump&sku=144100&familyID=7400&

I still need to get the solar power, hook the two together and run it for a good long wile as a test before I poke a hole in the tank and snake in that tube  :shock:
Larry Robertie
Ruach #1506
Salem, MA

Roc

I increased my vent size, per Peggie's suggestion and used KO and that helped.  But I did get a foul odor on a port tack coming out of the stanchion vent (I kept that vent and added another one going forward and leading out above the sheer stripe below the port side v-berth port).  It wasn't until I started using Odorloss that it completely stopped the odor.  I know use Odorloss, which is also recommended by her if KO doesn't work.
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

For me it seems to help if I flush the tank with fresh water at a pump out station and then pump it out again. My macerator quit pumping last weekend so I will be using the pump out station anyway until I get around to fixing it. It makes noise like it's trying to pump bot I don't get the high pitched squeal that I normally get when it's empty. Could the macerator be clogged and is it fixable? Any ideas? I'm sure this could be a messy job.

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Gary

Mike,

I have done a macerator repair...very easy and not too messy.  The motor and pump seperate quite easily.  The pump is actually a brass plate with two vertical prongs.  I found an obstruction there, removed it and the macerator was fine.
Gary Ambrose
Kije #215
1986 Fin Keel
Falmouth Foreside, ME

Stu Jackson

MACERATOR MALFUNCTION

Mike

One simple trick for the macerator pump is to REVERSE the power wires and run the pump again.  The wire switch makes the pump run backwards and may clear out your problem (or clear it IN! :D).  Some folks use quick connects on their wiring to be able to do this more easily.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Bob K

If it's the standard Jabsco, there is a hex key (or some type ) fitting at the end of the pump that allows you to manually rotate the pump  - that will sometimes free it up. 
Bob K
Prosit
1992 #1186
Northern Chesapeake Bay

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

Great ideas! Thanks guys, I will give them a try.

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Gary

Mike,

I should add to my previous post about macerator pump repair.  The obstruction was a paper towel...not very easily chewed up.  It sure was nice to have the easy fix but a lesson about being careful about what goes into the head.

Be sure to let us know what method ends up working to solve you're problem.  It is good to have feedback!
Gary Ambrose
Kije #215
1986 Fin Keel
Falmouth Foreside, ME

reedbr

I like the bubbler idea better than drilling another hole in my hull for bigger vents.  Power is a question through.  The Tetra Whisper 100 (for 100 gallon fish tanks) draws 4.8 watts and costs about $30.  Unfortunately it is set up for 120v, so a converter would be necessary.  Smaller models might draw even less.  That's .4 amps at 12 volts assuming an efficient conversion.

I did stumble across this solar unit, all pre-packaged for $50:
http://www.siliconsolar.com/Solar-Oxygenator-p-16155.html

I'm sure it is not as good as the 120v models, but it might be worth drilling a hole in the inspection port for the air line to test this out.  If it doesn't work, the inspection port can be replaced or plugged fairly easily.
Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
St. Mary's River, MD

Larry Robertie

Quote from: reedbr on May 10, 2007, 07:05:53 AM
I did stumble across this solar unit, all pre-packaged for $50:
http://www.siliconsolar.com/Solar-Oxygenator-p-16155.html


Well, at $14 for the pump I posted, then the wiring, and having to buy a separate solar panel, then the setting everything up - I think this solution is better.  As for it not being as good as the AC, well who knows how much air it takes?  For $50 I think it a worthy experiment  :thumb:  In fact, I just ordered one.
Larry Robertie
Ruach #1506
Salem, MA

Jim Price

Larry, please keep us posted on your installation efforts (pictures) and results.  I know the results could take a little time but summer is upon us again, so things are getting "sweet" in the old tank again.
Jim Price
"LADY DI", 1119
1991
Lake Lanier, GA