Rub rail and fuel filters

[crieders]

Someone hit my boat  two weeks ago and the rubber is out of the very substantial alum track. The track is bent too so the rubber won't go back in. I notice the rail is continuous and meets at the stern in the middle. Is the place to get a new one Catalina? Can the track be pieced together or is that a bad idea? Can just the rubber be purchased in the event that the track can be bent back into shape?
On another note, is is customary to replace the fuel and spin on filter each year, in the fall? Or is every other year or some other interval ok? Is there a way to do it that does not make a fuel spill mess on the boat. Thanks. Cliff Rieders, Dream Extreme, c34, tall rig, 1990, #1022.

[Steve Hansen]

Cliff

I change my Racor every year in the fall as was recommended to me by one of those diesel maintenance classes. It makes sense to me given the moisture and any crud which may come through is filtered at 2 microns. As for changing the Racor, I have no great technique other than spreading those oil absorbant pads around and keeping a bucket under the filter. It seems to be in my nature to make a little mess. The fuel filter on the engine, I'll go every other year since it filters at 10 microns. Sorry to hear about your rubrail, hope someone can answer that for you.

[Ken Heyman]

Cliff,

Try heating the rubber with a hairdryer and nursing it back into the track. I also used a rubber mallet to assist with the more stubborn areas. ---worked for me

Good luck,

Ken

[Stu Jackson]

Cliff

Do a search on the word "rub."  Amazing number of suggestions, although you'll have to wade through the rubber hits!

Fuel filters - assuming you use your boat engine about 100 hours per year, every six months for the Racor and once every two years for the secondary filter on the engine have worked for us, based on input from many others.  If you search Racor I'll bet there's lotsa stuff there for you.

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : To answer your rub rail question.
I don't believe that the aluminum holder is continuous.  If you look closely there may be a piece that can be removed or cut out and replaced.  The deciding factor on how much holder to replace will be - can you get at the inside nuts EASILY! 

On your filters, I change the Racor every spring (200 hrs/yr.) and the engine filter every 4 or 5 years.  Just make sure that the Racor is before the electric fuel pump and that you keep the bleed valve open a crack (1/4 to 1/2 turn).  Also read the previous posts and you'll learn more about your fuel system. 
Hint - clean the inside of your tank every 5/6 years to beat down the nasties that clog the Racor filter. 

[ohana34]

Ive replaced several catalina rub rails.
The Aluminum is next to impossible to bend back, but if you can get it close, put the top channel in and use a dull blade screwdriver and inch in the bottom section.  Very hot day and direct sun helps.
Rub rail available from Catalina in gray and brown.
Aluminum comes in 20' sections, but they will cut it any size you want.
Note; the deck to hull joint bolts go through this.
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Guy's : Don't remember the exact length, but once you get much above 7 feet not only will the shipping cost go up; but you'll have to ship it via  freight=$$.   

[crieders]

On the deck to hull joints, are the bolts reachable from the inside of the boat and if so, where? Thanks for the reply. Cliff c34, 1990, tall rig, 1022

[Ron Hill]

Steve : Reread my first post!!  I believe that the deck to hull was joined BEFORE most of the interior cabinetry was install. 
Look at the area you want to replace and see how many of the nuts on the INSIDE you can get to.  That's going to be your deciding factor!!   
The worst case is you might have to grind off a bolt head to get that damaged section of aluminum holder off.  Then you'll have to drill a new hole and caulk the old one closed.   

[Bruce Hanson]

Cliff
Do not ignore Ron,s practice of adding  injector cleaner to the Racor bowl at filter change, it smoothed out our idle significantly this Fall.

[r_bond]

I replaced the aluminum rail and the rubber insert last year - got a bad case of "rash" from hurricane damage.  Here's the process I followed:
1.  I removed the railing ALL the way around the boat
2.  Cleaned the area under the rail and the epoxied all of the "old" holes.  Railing comes pre-drilled but it won't match your old holes, guaranteed.
3.  Installed new railing, using the apprx. 7 ft segments that can be shipped via UPS.  I tapped each section in place, marked 3 holes - one on each end and one in middle, removed the railing, drilled the holes and put each piece in place.  Once it was on the boat, I drilled the rest of the holes.  Applied ample sealant to each bolt and screw to ensure no leaks.
4.  Installed the rubber railing - a nice rubber mallet, a bit of light stretching to ensure no sags and it goes in very easily.
All of your thru-bolts are accessible with minimal tearing up of the cabin - the small trim panels overhead in fore and aft berths (mine are vinyl covered, found behind the teak trim piece) have to be removed; your bulkheads in v-berth (the one leading toward the anchor locker) and aft berth (across rear) have to be removed, but that's about it.  Rest of mine were accessible inside cabinets, etc.  Sometimes takes a bit of looking for find them, but they're there.

Rusty Bond
"Trinity" - '93 Wing/Std

I was very pleased with the results.  The smaller pieces mate together well if you're careful to line them up.  If so, you'll have to really look for the sections.  Plus...I like having smaller sections - easier to repair - which I've already managed to "kiss" a pier and need to replace one section I flattened!!

Hope this helps.  Not a tough job, just a little time consuming