Domestic water schematic

[clifford Rieders]

Now that I have most things working, the latest is the water system. Pump (newly installed by me two seasons ago) keeps going but the pressure does not come up and water fails to flow in the galley. I cannot find any leaks, air or water but clearlly its not pumping water since when I check the filters, its dry....so I wonder if anyone has a good schematic?  The old valves for the two tanks are plastic and not very easy to reach. I wonder if they should be replaced? Thanks . cliff c34  #1022, 1990

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : It sound as though your gate valve/s are turned off or can't be turned ON (counter clockwise).  Why don't you replace them with lever handled ball valves - easily purchased at Home Depot. 
Look back in the old Mainsheet tech note and there's an article about 1996 about installing a water manifold!!   Great info in those tech notes.   

[Mike Vaccaro]

Cliff,

Might try the owner's manual.  There's a good schematic in there of the stock system.  Recently, we replaced all of the plumbing and replaced the gate valves with ball valves that Ron mentioned.  I've attached a couple of pictures.  This was part of an extensive galley overhaul.  I removed the stock plywood shelf that the valves, pressure pump and foot pump are mounted on.  Moved the pump and added hot and cold manifolds that accessable behind the hot water tank.   

Cheers,

Mike

[clifford Rieders]

I fear thats the problem and did not want to get into a project right now but it seems I have no choice. Thanks for the advice and pictures. Cliff c34 #1022, 1990

[Stu Jackson]

Cliff

Our 20 year old plastic gate valves still work.  I suggest not going any further than you may need to.  Identify what the issue is before you think you need to go ripping things apart.  Mike's project is very valuable, but may not necessarily be the short term fix you may need.

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : I reread your initial post.  I agree with Stu don't do more that is necessary - the gate valves should not have gone bad.
 
Try to disconnect the inlet water hose to the pump.  When you do, you should have a gusher if the valves are on and the lines are clear.  If all is OK reconnect the inlet, then disconnect the outlet side and turn on the switch to the water pump.  Again you should have a BIG gusher.  Keep doing that until you find the blockage!! 
Hope this helps.   

[Jim Price]

I know this sounds terrible but your pump should have a fine mesh screen filter and that can become "less porous" due to fresh water impurities that may have washed out of the tanks.  This will let the pump run but the output pressure is limited due to input being reduced.  Just a thought.

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : Some pumps MIGHT have an internal screen, but most depend on an additional filter before the pump.
I've written this up a number of time before:
The stainless mesh in the fresh water system should be much finer than the screen mesh in the raw water system.  The factory installed the same screen course screen in BOTH. 
I listed the screen part #s in a Mainsheet article and numerous times on this Board, along with the telephone number of the company.  Might even be in Projects!     

[clifford Rieders]

I have the old fashioned faucet type valve not the gate valves. I do have screens which I cleaned before I fired the system up. I will disconnnect some hoses first as suggested and see what comes out but I like how neat and clean the system looks on the posted photos. thanks for all the suggestions. Cliff c34 #1022, 1990

[Stu Jackson]

Cliff

Just to clarify some terms and definitions:

The old fashioned faucet type valves ARE actually called gate valves.

The new ones, shown in the photos above, are BALL valves.

[clifford Rieders]

I could not find Ron's article in the 1996 edition of the tech notes but what is the size of the plumbing. Is what is shown in the pictures (very helpful)  1/2 inch? Thanks again. Cliff c34 #1022, 1990

[Mike Vaccaro]

On our '87, Hull 563, all domestic plumbing is 1/2".

Cheers,

Mike