Mark I Traveler block/car upgrade

[Tom Glennon]

Gentlemen:

Have any of you owners of the Mark I '34 replaced your traveler cars with the Garhauer upgrade you see in the back of the Mainsheet?

AS the owner of hull #354, I have found the traveler to ne almost impossible to raise/lower when under a load of say 15 kts. or stronger.

Would love some feedback, & comments.

   Best regards from Buzzards Bay!

[Tom Glennon]

OK, OK..... I did the search, and there is much useful info there.... thanks in advance for your feedback....

 :cool:

[Buddy]

Tom,
I did the whole Garhauer ball bearing retrofit including the 6/1 traveller and car. Man what a difference. You can pull the traveller uphill with a full load, no problem. I highly recommend the upgrade package as they discounted it considerably.

Buddy

[Stu Jackson]

Tom

When I did my upgrade years ago, turns out I made a mistake by also upgrading the line from 5/16 to 3/4.  It sure looked sturdier, but became a problem when the line swelled over the course of a few years.  While the blocks still turned freely, the expanded line rubbed against the side pins of the stacked blocks, making the line almost useless.

I had two choices: new 3/4 line for a few years or specified 5/16 line (from the manual).  I chose the 5/16 and couldn't be happier.  There's so little friction on the lines because of the blocks that the thinner line caused no problems whatsoever for tailing the line, even pulling the line uphill aftr a tack, and we get severe loads here on SF Bay.

Moral of the story: another case when bigger isn't necessarily better.

Don't forget you'll need longer sheets because of the extra blocks, it runs about 27 feet per side.

You'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner: Enjoy.

Stu

PS  If you don't have them, install the long through bolts through the traveler bar.  Older boats didn't have them.

[Jim Price]

I did this about a year ago and it made all the difference in the world.  I also took the opportunity to dump the fiddle block arraignment and replace with a big triple block with cleat.  Lines still run the same but now I have one end of sheet ruining through a Garhauer clutch and to winch (for hard adjustments) and the other runs through the triple block / cam cleat into cockpit for 95% of sheet adjustment and gives ability to dump main with the flick of the wrist in an emergency.

To answer your primary question, I have had boat unreefed in 25+ winds and can easily move the car upwind freehanded. (That was in preparation of fast tack and controlling / reducing boom travel, not to just heel deeper)

[Tom Glennon]

Thank you all once again for such valuable empirical knowledge... this is by far the best site on the web!!

Happy sailing!

[dpenz]

This spring I also installed the 5:1 traveler upgrade, with 3/8" line.  It is easy to install, as it only requires two holes to be drilled through the track for the rubber stops.  It works great.  My crew can trim under any wind conditions now.  Get the most flexible and easy-running line you can find.

[Stu Jackson]

WOOPs  - 3/4 should have been 3/8.  Thanks for noting the mistake.

Stu

[Tom P, IMPULSE #233, '86]

Tom,

I replaced the entire mainsheet traveler (track and car) with the new Garhauer 5:1 roller bearing system.  I measured the existing track, and the bolt location, then faxed the drawing to Garhauer, who pre-drilled the new track for me.  The new track fit almost perfectly, with only one hole being very slightly off; probably a measurement error on my part.  Reaming the one hole with a one size larger drill bit solved the problem.  If you change out the track, be sure to "dry fit" all the bolts and track first to make sure it's right before adding the sealant :-)

With my new setup, I did not want to run the control lines forward and then back around the dodger for several reasons (1) due to the increased friction of added blocks, (2) we sail mostly with the dodger removed (racing), (3) my dodger has small zippered windows on each side for the traveler lines.  Therefore I went with the cleats on each end of the track.  However, the Garhauer cleats do not swivel, so I swapped them out with Harken swivel cleats (about $60-75 each?)...Two of the three mounting holes matched the orginal cleat holes, so I only had to drill one hole on each side; a little tough when drill stainless steel, use a really good drill bit and patience.  In my opinion, this was another good addition, since both control lines now are lead to the center of the cockpit, instead of being lead straight back on each end of the track; ie you can stand centerline, aft of the companion way and control both sides rather than working one line at the time and having to move to each side of the cockpit.

I also highly recommend replacing ALL mainsheet and halyard turning blocks with the new "open faced" ball bearing blocks...They are pretty  inexpensive and make a huge improvement.

Tom P.

[Stu Jackson]

The picture I posted on Mainsheet leads has the travller upgrade in the picture.

Stu

http://c34.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=942103435

[Mike and Theresa Vaccaro]

Recommend you upgrade!  If your track is in good condition, all you'll need are the ends and a new car.  This will require you to drill two holes through the existing track to add car stops at each end.  The most difficult part may be removing the old car ends, since it's likely that the large stainless screws have corroded a bit.  A liberal amount of a "liquid wrench" type of penetrating oil a day or two prior to removal may help.

You'll need to use caution when you swap cars.  The new car will be shipped in a short piece of track.  This is to keep the bearings properly seated in the races.  When you swap, move the old car off to the side, and then butt the short section of track up against the end of your track.  Then you slide the new car on to the track.  Slide it about half way across and then tape it in place so it doesn't slide off while your working!  Then you can slide the old car on to the stub track (in case you want to keep it for parts or resale).  Then you can attach the new ends.

When ever you're looking for smooth running rigging the key is large pulleys and small lines.  Most folks like sufficient "hand" in a line to make it easy on the hands when you're working.  This usually means larger diameter line.  In reality, if you're concern is smooth operation of a line under load, the smallest diameter is always best, but it can make lines hard on the hands.  Hence the sailing glove!  Obviously, it's always going to be a bit of a compromise, but the traveler, although a secondary control, is the key to making the main work properly if your concern is optimum performance.  The upgrade is a tremendous improvement in the system.  As Tom stated above, the only "flaw" in the Garhauer system is the non-swiveling cam design on the ends--this requires you to fair the line by pulling straight aft.  

Best of Luck!

Mike