Aft water tank removal

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suereal

I'm attempting to drop the rudder to check the shaft and remove the slop. I'd really like to remove the aft water tank so I can reach all the doohickies that need to be loosened/removed so the rudder will slide out. I'm especially interested in how the tank is affixed to the boat. I'm assuming that someone has pulled one out and would appreciate any experiences. My boat is hull # 364 and a 1986 MK1. No sugar, no scoop. At 6'5" and 230Lbs getting access through the rear lazzerette is somewhat problematic. I don't know anyone who I dislike enough to ask to help. Thanks.
Dave & Pamm Monier
San Carlos Son. MX
Seaclusion
C34 #364, M25 XP #37 Oshkosh,WI
"Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read". Groucho Marx

Noah

#1
I have done this many times (don't ask why) :abd:.
1. Remove fuel tank bulkhead (Portside). Then remove aft bulkhead. You may have one sneaky screw coming from the back side to front holding bulkhead that you will need to reach through with stubby screwdriver to remove.first .
The water tank should be just sitting on shelf. Only held in place by hoses and engine cables.
2. Drain tank.
3. Remove deck fill and vent hoses on top starboard side.
4. Lift tank up in front and reach. Under and remove feed hose from hose barb (be careful not to damage hose barb as it stays attached to tank.
5. Tricky part is next. If you have enough slack in you engine cables you can lever them out of the way and then lift out tank by sliding and maneuvering it up and out sideways. You may have to disconnect engine cables from engine if not enough clearance. You will dribble some residule water so be prepared with towels,
Enjoy!
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

waughoo

As Noah says... make sure to remove the fuel tank bulkhead first.  It is exceedingly tempting to remove JUST the aft bulkhead, but the clearance isn't there to do so.  In my boat, the tank is just resting on a platform and doesn't have any securing straps.  The platform has three sides to it (aft port and stbd).  My platform was toast and I had to rebuild it.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Ron Hill

Dave : You might have to saw a notch in the bottom lip of the lateral fiberglass (that the aft panel screws into) so you can get the drain hose barb to clear!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

suereal

Wow!

Thanks to you all for the great information. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Dave
Dave & Pamm Monier
San Carlos Son. MX
Seaclusion
C34 #364, M25 XP #37 Oshkosh,WI
"Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read". Groucho Marx

scgunner

Dave,

I agree with most of the above but the hose barb (or fitting) at the bottom of the tank can be removed once the tank is empty. It can be reached with a wrench either by lifting the tank or reaching it from the rear bilge opening. The tank is much easier to wedge out with no fitting to hang up on and cutting a notch is unnecessary. Another thing you might want to consider is drilling drain holes in each corner in the low side of the tank pan. Should the tank develop a leak it will fill the pan with water and when the boat heels (especially to port) it can leak into the aft cabin. My tank is 37 years old (as is yours) developed a stress fracture, filled the pan and leaked into my aft cabin, it took me forever to figure out where that water was coming from. The drain holes will eliminate this problem at least until you can get around to repairing the tank.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273