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[mdidomenico]

over the winter i picked up a bunch of stanchion blocks from garhaurer to re-route my furling line.  however, i'm having trouble getting the angle right from the first upright stanchion to the furler (a hood 900 drum (not continuous)).  can anyone post some pictures of what arrangement of blocks they have from the first stanchion up to the furler itself.  the arrangements i tried all seemed to have either have a weird feed angle into the drum or the standup blocks on the bow rails are bent over in weird ways and don't actually carry the line

clearly i'm doing something wrong, i just need to see how others did it

[Ron Hill]

mdid : I had the same problem!!
Sorry - no picture, but I finally used a Schaefer (#317255) 300 BB block. It is a clamp-on (1 inch) to the base of the bow pulpit so the line is just inside the base of the bow pulpit. The block has a spring swivel.  West Marine # 300-35.  Then the furling line goes to a regular stanchion block so the line is OUTSIDE the stanchions until it arrives at the cockpit!   Hope this helps

A few thoughts

[mdidomenico]

mdid : I had the same problem!!
Sorry - no picture, but I finally used a Schaefer (#317255) 300 BB block. It is a clamp-on (1 inch) to the base of the bow pulpit so the line is just inside the base of the bow pulpit. The block has a spring swivel.  West Marine # 300-35.  Then the furling line goes to a regular stanchion block so the line is OUTSIDE the stanchions until it arrives at the cockpit!   Hope this helps

ok thats basically what i've done as well.  i have garhauer stanchions blocks that pull the line outside from the first upright stanchion to the last, and then i picked up a spring swivel for the pulpit, but i can't figure out the orientation.  it was a little cold when i tried this two weeks ago, maybe my brain was foggy.  i'll take another look tomorrow.

[Stu Jackson]

I used Johnson bullet blocks on the outside of the stanchions, then to a swivel block on the pulpit, lined up the line on the furler at 90 degrees from the forestay.  Sorry it's hard to see in the photo, but I took the picture to show someone else the long link plates not the blocks.  Maybe you can blow the photo up if you download it.

[Noah]

I have a very high cut genoa with long link plates on my Profurl. I use a Schaefer stanchion spring base block on the bow pulpit to a series of Schaefer stanchion lead blocks, with one at every stanchion. NOT an inexpensive way to go.  The angle slopes down until about the second stanchion then runs level until my stanchion cam cleat.

[Ron Hill]

mdid : What I found is important is to make sure that you have a 90 degree angle so the furling line goes in perpendicular to the drum.  You just have to position that first block somewhere on the pulpit to achieve that angle.

A thought

[Jim Fitch]

Noah -

Where did you get that double right angle jamb cleat block that mounts to the stanchion?  I definitely want one of those.

Jim

[Noah]

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/?_home_keyword=%20SB-25C

[tmac]

Noah - I'm curious - I bought one of those Garhauer stanchion blocks with the cleats last year, and I HATE it!  I find that when trying to uncleat the line, when I snap the line up, the whole spring-loaded block just swings up with the line, and it doesn't uncleat.  Do you find the same thing?  I have to actually step over to the cleat and hold the block to get it to uncleat.  I'm contemplating removing the cleat portion and mount that on the edge of the cockpit instead. 

[Noah]

I haven’t had that issue based upon my location and the fact that I pull aft on it to release.