Running Rigging

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Chris@Slocum

Attached is a mast photo of our recent purchase.  I am 3 hours away from the boat, but would like to order some replacement line.  My manual does not show the "eyes" in the mast and what rigging should pass through.  All rigging on the boat is run to the cockpit.  The manual states that halyards for the tall rig should be 119' long.  The diagrams, however, all show rigging terminating at the bottom of the mast.  My thought is that lines aught be a little longer, (say 50' up + 50' down+4' to turning block+ 20' to transom).  Can anyone suggest what lines might be associated with the whisker pole?

The boat is a 1988 C34, manufactured in December of 1987, Tall Rig, Rigid Vang, Wing Keel, M25-XP.
Thanks for your generous responses.
Best regards,
Chris

waughoo

I have found the manual to be accurate for my running rigging purchases.  I did add about 5 or so feet when buying my halyards just because I want to be extra sure.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Steve McGill

On our tall rig the 50' is from water line to mast head. 119' is correct length for main halyard.  Good luck

Steve
CLARITY 1988 #588 TRWK (sold 8/2023 after 17 yrs)
Chesapeake, Herring Bay, MD

glennd3

Follow the manual, extra length adds mor line in the cockpit to deal with when sails are raised.
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

Jim Hardesty

Chris,
I've found the running rigging length in the manual to be correct as the boat was built.  If a PO did things like moving the halyard winches from the mast to the cockpit it won't be correct. 
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Stu Jackson

Chris,

One of the benefits of the manuals and the brochures are that the drawings are to scale.  That means that in addition to the running rigging lengths shown in the table in the manual, you can cross check them with the drawings.  It might mean a deep dive into high school math, but since we know the overall length and beam of the boat, we can scale any and all the remaining dimensions.

I've used this to check and cross check the height of my mast above water, for example.  I also replaced my running rigging, and when I did so, I used scaling the manual drawings, especially for the halyards I was replacing, to assure that any "suggestions" in the manual included having them led aft, as a true reality check.

You don't even have to be anywhere near your boat, as in your case.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Chris : I found that did the same as Waughoo.  I did that so after a few years I could cut a few inches off the line and any wear would be placed in a different place in any running rigging line.

Also remember to end for end your lines every 5 or 6 years to change any wear.  That will absolutely extend the life of any line!!   :thumb:

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Chris@Slocum


Chris@Slocum

Further to my last, Thanks for some great suggestions.  My reference rigging diagrams might precede the model year.  I am stumped on the 3 mast openings which are on both sides of the mast.  Can anyone shed light on their use?  Perhaps a diagram for whisker pole halyards. if available. We are moving up from a Catalina 25, and the 34 is a boat full of mystery.  I'm trying to order some of what obviously requires replacement before travelling to get the boat ready for launch May 7th.
Thanks for your help!
Best regards,
Chris

Noah

#9
My set-up is: Main on Starboard. Jib 1, Jib spare, and spinnaker on Port.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Gary Brockman

My mast is set up as Jib 1, Jib 2 and Spin 2 on Port and Main, Spin 2 on Starboard. The Spin halyards are crossed in the mast so that they are trimmed from the high side.
Squall
1986 Hull #231
Tall Rig/Fin Keel - Elliptical Rudder
M25XPB - Flexofold 2 Blade 15x10
Marina del Rey, California

Jon W

I have a 1987 std rig. My mast set up is:

Port side - spinnaker stored at mast with it's own rope clutch; jib stored at the mast with it's own rope clutch; spare main led back to cockpit and it's own rope clutch.

Starboard side - primary main led back to the cockpit and it's own rope clutch; whisker pole stored at mast with it's own rope clutch.

My whisker pole is stored on a track on the mast similar to yours. It is not OEM and yours may not be either so you will need to take your own measurements or have a rigger come out and do it for you. I can take photo's of my set up tomorrow and post if you think it would help.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Chris@Slocum

Jon,
Thanks for the offer, but I will get it figured out and measured in the next week,
Best regards,
Chris

Ron Hill

#13
Chris : If you look on page 4.1.5 of your 1988 owners manual "Internal Halyard mast head Assembly".  It shows what the 4 mast head sheaves "could" be used for.   
Aft Starboard sheave Main Halyard / Fwd Starboard sheave Starboard Jib Halyard (most of us have no use - maybe whisker or spinnaker pole?) / FWD Port sheave Main Jib Halyard (most of us use for the roller furling jib) / Aft Port sheave Spare Halyard (I use it as an extra safety halyard when going up the mast) / Fwd Bale for Spinnaker Block.

Hope this helps??  A few thoughts



Ron, Apache #788

Chris@Slocum

Ron,
Thanks, this is very helpful!
Best regards,
Chris