Recent hot running of M-25xp

[KWKloeber]

Jon

Is there room to use a brass ell and a tube to a location for the ball valve, or maybe an ell to a ball valve mounted horn (behind the TStat cap)?

[Ron Hill]

Jon : I did not make a typo.  I meant a closed perpetual (also pressurized) system.  Once filled and burped all you have to do is LOOK at IT because if working correctly
- nothing needs to be done!!! 

I'm sure that with your autos all you do is LOOK at the coolant recovery bottle!!! 

A few thoughts

[Jon W]

Ken, most male/female or male/male elbows with this thread size will be shorter than the OEM petcock, but it will be close depending on the thickness of soundproofing. Clocking may be a problem to miss the crankcase vent port and hose.

Ron, I haven't heard of a perpetual cooling system. Learn something everyday.

[KWKloeber]

Thx Jon

In my case with the prop shaft angle and saloon seat, the highest point is the breather bump. 
I'm thinking it might work (for me anyway) to align an ell At-Wart-Ship and basically follow the TStat to exh manifold coolant hose.
I'd think that after the valve I could tee it into the coolant reservoir hose?  - Do you see an issue doing that?

Perpetually,
Ken

[Jon W]

The valve is to shut off the line during normal operation? Seems like it would work, but you risk getting an air leak from the constant engine heat on the tubing. Only one way to find out

[Patches]

Strange, but could this be it?

After posting this, I have had the same symptoms--though intermittently.  Sometimes the voltmeter on the panel would cycle down, then back up.  Same with the tach.  I thought it had something to do with the new Balmar regulator kicking in when the battery levels were full.  I know, I know--i don't know anything.

So up on Patos Island in the San Juan Islands this morning.  Lovely spot, and getting ready to leave.  Try to start the motor and low pressure alarm comes on, but gauges don't activate and I can't start the motor.  I shut everything down, and chased power all the way to the panel.  Fuses looked good.  Checked all connections at the panel.  Then went below and checked connections on the starter solenoid and regulator.  Went back up and the boat started.  Yay!

Went back down below, to put everything back together before leaving. However, I noticed what looked like arcing where the ground wires  are attached to the starter bolt.  Shut everything down again, turned battery switch off, and opened the service disconnect breaker in the battery compartment.

Sure enough, the bolt holding the negatives on the starter was hanging there.  I removed it, and noticed that the bolt had lost a few threads.  I have the original bolt which I tried to re-use.   But because the 2 AWG main negative, the 2 AWG alt negative, and a 8 AWG (to engine compartment busbar) all attached to the starter bolt, it was too short.  So I had to use the sketchy one I just pulled out.  Luckily it threaded near the tip, and I was able to tighten it all down with the lock washer.

Went back up and started again.  All demonic gauge readings were gone.  I motored from Patos Island to Deer Harbor on Orcas Island with the water temp gauge pegged at 160 degrees.  No cycling of the gauges. No gremlins.

I feel lucky I caught this when I did. 

Question:  any reason I shouldn't use a little Loctite to keep that starter bolt in place?  It succeeded in backing out after about 350 hours.

Comment and endorsement:  Also swapped the raw water strainer which I had previously re-mounted on the wall under the secondary full filter.  Again following Jon W.'s excellent lead, I went with a Vetus which seems to be just about the prefect application for that space.  Very easy to see the flow in the strainer, and any plant life which makes its way in, and to empty the basket.  Highly recommend that upgrade.

Patches

[KWKloeber]

A good lock washer and corrrct torque should hold, but it's not unreasonable to add a dab.   NOT high strength though!  You'd need to heat it with a torch to get the bolt out.

[Ron Hill]

Patches : If you are bound and determined to use "Locktight", use the blue NOT the red!!

A thought

[Roland Gendreau]

While you did mention an episode with seaweed pluggage, one thing not mentioned is checking the engine intake thru hull for restrictions, like barnacles etc. 

[TortolaTim]

Speaking of thermostats...what's the consensus on replacement interval? I don't see it anywhere in the engine manual

[KWKloeber]

Speaking of thermostats...what's the consensus on replacement interval? I don't see it anywhere in the engine manual

I replaced what I suspect was the original 1984 TStat circa 1995 (but it was unnecessary - I didn't know about 'air lock' and neither did the Catalina dealer's 'diesel mechanic'.)  I'd think it's one of those haphazard things if one goes bad, especially if it's an older Kb quality TStat. 
They are probably like them darn ole Facet pumps that give only 30 years of service.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Ken is correct 30 years.    If you run into over/under heating and everything checks OK - then I'd change the thermostat.  I've always used the 160F !!!

How often do you change out the thermostat in you auto engine ???

A few thoughts