Transmission fluid "silvery look"

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Steve_in_lex

I just heard from the yard that the transmission fluid had a "silvery look."  They did an oil sample that showed that "the particle count was elevated" and they recommend removal and inspection/service of the transmission.   I have no reason to doubt the yard, where I've stored the boat for several years, but just wanted to check with the group to see if this makes sense, because it could be a pretty big job.  Thanks.
Steve Saudek
2005 C-34 MK II
#1701
"Brisa"

mark_53

Are you having any problems with the transmission?  If, not, I'd continue to use until some symptoms started to show.  Maybe check the fluid after a 20-30 hrs to see if the issue continues.

Steve_in_lex

Last summer I had to push the gearshift further forward to get it into forward gear, and it required more of a push.  I figured it was simply a matter requiring adjustment.
Steve Saudek
2005 C-34 MK II
#1701
"Brisa"

Kyle Ewing

How often has the fluid been changed?  A big change over a year would be different than if you never changed it. 

What inspection can they do out of the boat that they can't do in the boat.  My experience is the linkage is the only adjustment.


Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago
http://www.saildonnybrook.com/

Stu Jackson

#4
I agree with Kyle.

What you might want to consider is doing the unenviable task of draining the transmission from the bottom.  It should allow you to clean it out well.  Maybe even consider completely filling the transmission with fluid as if you were laying up for a season.

I'd try getting some of the old out first, then replug temporarily, fill the entire housing up and then drain it all.

That would give you two different fluids to compare, three really: as well as a clear container of new.

Do NOT forget to get a new crush washer before you top it up (not the temporary fill, the final one).

Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Steve : I'd do as Stu recommended and "flush" the transmission a couple of times by sucking all out and refilling with new fluid.  I personally wouldn't try to drain from the bottom (to hard to reseal).
 
When I winterize for the end of the season I fill my transmission all the way to the top.  That keeps out any condensation.  Then in the spring I suck it all out and refill with new fluid to the correct level.

Try that this season and just see how it goes.  BTW, suck out your present fluid into a glass jar and yourself see how "silvery" the fluid really is??

A few thoughts

Ron, Apache #788

Steve_in_lex

Thanks a lot, all.   I go with your suggestions and change the fluid first.
Steve Saudek
2005 C-34 MK II
#1701
"Brisa"

LogoFreak

I personally would follow the already given suggestions but if in doubt I wouldn't hesitate to pull the transmission and have it gone over (if you don't have the means to do it yourself). Last thing you want is to have transmission problems out at sea and put yourself in danger because of it. Never mind the extra cost of a tow/haul out/repair bill.
Antoni - Vancouver BC
1992 Catalina 34 Tall rig fin keel mk 1.5 "Polonaise"
Hull number 1179

scgunner

Steve,

I'm not sure what they mean by "silvery look",but generally when you examine drained trans oil, whether it be marine or automotive, it's not unusual to see a "metallic sheen", that's normal wear. Also if you dip your thumb and forefinger into the oil you shouldn't feel anything but oil when rubbed together. If it feels grainy or gritty you've probably got a highly worn transmission. It will still function, but you'll have to decide how far you want to go with it.

Remember, no matter how well lubed the trans is or how often you change oil, a transmission functions by going metal against metal so there is going to be some wear, it's just a question of how much.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Jim Hardesty

I haven't had to find out much about boat transmissions, thankfully.  What I do know is my friend fried his transmission, while we were cruising/buddy boating, I towed him back home took 3 days but that's another story.  Was about the same cost for him to buy new transmission verses repair.
Once the transmission is out what is there to check and/or repair.
Is there any checks, other than operating normally, that can be done to see if the transmission will need work soon.  In water and on the hard?
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

LogoFreak

Quote from: Jim Hardesty on February 02, 2021, 08:14:38 AM
I haven't had to find out much about boat transmissions, thankfully.  What I do know is my friend fried his transmission, while we were cruising/buddy boating, I towed him back home took 3 days but that's another story.  Was about the same cost for him to buy new transmission verses repair.
Once the transmission is out what is there to check and/or repair.
Is there any checks, other than operating normally, that can be done to see if the transmission will need work soon.  In water and on the hard?
Jim

100% I speak from experience when I say replacing a transmission with a new one is cheaper than fixing the old one.
Antoni - Vancouver BC
1992 Catalina 34 Tall rig fin keel mk 1.5 "Polonaise"
Hull number 1179

Ron Hill

Guys : I should have mentioned it before, but filling the transmission all the way to the top for winter insures that all of the inside parts stay moist in fluid!! 

Especially the forward seal and the top of the aft seal!!  Transmissions are expensive - fluid is cheap insurance!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Roc

Steve,
How many engine hours do you have? I change mine every fall before laying up for the winter.  I fill it up as Ron suggests, then drain it back down to the proper level in the spring.  When I change the fluid, it seems to be a darker red.  New fluid is bright red.
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Roc on February 17, 2021, 04:25:22 PM
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When I change the fluid, it seems to be a darker red.  New fluid is bright red.

From the 101 topics, Transmissions 101:

The Flix   http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5139.msg31528.html#msg31528 
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

ewengstrom

I've mentioned before that when we bought our 88 C34 it was in a very neglected state. Last winter I pulled the motor/transmission for a very serious cleaning and replaced many gaskets and seals, and installed new motor mounts. While it was out I pulled the transmission for service and to replace the original damper plate. When I drained the transmission this is what I found.
I flushed it multiple times and will follow Ron's (and the manufacturers) advice going forward. So far the transmission sounds okay, but only time will tell if this level of neglect seriously affected my transmission.
Seems to me these Hurth transmissions are tougher than I thought.
Eric Wengstrom
s/v Ohana
Colonial Beach, Virginia
1988 Catalina 34 MKI TR/WK
Hull #564
Universal M25XP
Rocna 15