traveller control lines replacement

[Gary Brockman]

I agree with Stu that anyone you talk to at Garhauer is very familiar with Catalinas. I believe that the owner still owns a Catalina and his son Mark used to own a Catalina 36.

[Ron Hill]

All : Last time I talked with Bill Felgenhauer, he owned a C35.  Years ago he told me (chuckling) that Gerry Douglas's C36 hull had blisters!!

As Stu said I also used 3/8" for an easier hand grip, but it was tooo thick and change back to 5/16" line

A few thoughts

[wingman]

Follow up on traveller control line replacement/re-rigging project:

On great advice from Jim H, checked out Hamilton and got 100' of 5/16 sta set for easily a third of what it would've cost "on sale" at West Marine or Defender, even paying for shipping.

Put in my first eye splice, although I had to cut it off and start over three times to get it to work. Good thing I got a lot of extra rope.

Now working on re-rigging the fairlead on the traveller control lines for ease of adjustment. Like to move the cam cleats from the ends of the traveller to the cabin top/cockpit, but doesn't look like I really have room between dodger, winches, hatches, and rope clutches, etc., see pic.

I've seen examples of re-running them on different configurations of MkIs, but wondering if anyone with an MkII has found a good solution.

[Jim Hardesty]

Put in my first eye splice, although I had to cut it off and start over three times to get it to work. Good thing I got a lot of extra rope.

Wingman,   FWIW  I also redid my eye splices.  Found that I first had too much core pulled through ie the eye was correct size but the over lap (stiff part) would get in the way of the traveler when adjusted all the way.  Worked but not quite right.  Remade following the directions more closely and spike-tight seized the eye splice.
Jim

[wingman]

Jim, good tip, thanks. I'll make sure the new overlap isn't any longer than on the old line, which worked ok. By spike-tight sized you mean you got the eye as small as possible using a spike?

I'm going to put in an eye splice on a couple of new halyards as well, any issues with overlap (or other issues) to be aware of in that application? I suppose if I keep the overlap and eye similar to the old lines I will be ok.

[Jim Hardesty]

Wingman,
I misspelled and may have used seized and should have used whipped.  Try

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbYWbZAPwxk

As far as spike-tight, pull each wrap tight with a marlin spike with marlin spike hitch rather than just hand tight.  That way the whip is very tight and I don't feel the crossing are necessary.  Although they do look good.
Jim

[wingman]

thanks Jim, excellent video.

[Ron Hill]

Wing : I still like to uses a bowline for the halyard attachment.
It make it easy then when you end for end the halyard to spread out the wear!!

If you are determined to splice, I like to finish off the splice with a piece of heat shrink (black or clear).  Just slide it on before starting, then slide it over the tapered finish and hit it with a heat gun.  Easier than whipping!!

A thought

[wingman]

Wing : I still like to uses a bowline for the halyard attachment.
It make it easy then when you end for end the halyard to spread out the wear!!

If you are determined to splice, I like to finish off the splice with a piece of heat shrink (black or clear).  Just slide it on before starting, then slide it over the tapered finish and hit it with a heat gun.  Easier than whipping!!

Ron, decided to teach myself how to splice this winter as pandemic therapy!