Messages

Kerk

Mark's right.

Only thing I woud add:  How easy is it to check the oil level?

I once had to tear the entire aft cabin of a Beneteau apart to even get to the monster and impossible access hatch to the oil dipstick.

Outta sight, outta mind.  Should be checked every time you start your engine.

The Universal has a starboard-side dipstick, and Catalina was kind enough to install a door right there!  Amazing but true:  they forgot to do the door in the first production runs of the MarkIIs.  Go figure...

Ken

If you're over 30 seconds, you NEED to drain your muffler.  Keep using liquid wrench, better yet get a can of PB BLASTER.  If you use the PB it'll clean that little butterfly handle valve in no time.  Compared to Liquid Wrench, it's like night and day.  Good hardware stores should all have it.  Not a marine store: too pricey and they may not have discovered it yet (even though it's been around for awhile).

After one or two applications, try a wire brush on the threads (bronze, not steel to avoid rust in your boat).  Then keep applying.

You MUST do it, or risk backing water into your engine.  

You could also consider trying to get it started with the raw water thru hull closed.  This will avoid more water getting pumped in by the rw pump and into the muffler.  Need to be quick to avoid damaging the pump impellers, but you were good and ready to replace it anyway, right?  The engine won't overhat for a few minutes so you have time to get the thru hull opened again.

A little patience or a new engine.  Your choice.

Jeff

With your #219, you have the same vintage we do.  As previously noted, this website has two basic parts, this message board and the main website.  The message board is for asking questions and its search engine should help you find much of what you are looking for.

However, a lot of basic information, such as what you are looking for, is on the main website under FAQs and projects, especially for the older boats.

You have Beckson ports.  Go to http://www.c34ia.org/faq-pages/faq.html, and on the right side, scroll down under "Past Wisdom."  Beckson ports appears and shows you how to replace or repair them and how to contact Beckson.  You can also do a search on both the main 'site and this board for Beckson, and learn more than you could hope for. {Jim's answer with his newer boat, was for the newer Lewmar ports, which you don't have.}

No one's sinks drain on the older boats.  Check out "Projects" on the main site for sink drain.  It's there. http://www.c34ia.org/projects/kindred-spirit/sink_drain.html via http://www.c34ia.org/projects/projects_top.html

Dare I suggest a search for "bow rollers," on both parts.  They are two different search engines for the two sections of the site.

Catalina stock sails come from Catalina.  I think it's Gary at Ullman sails who does them, but I don't know where you live:  it might be less expensive to buy locally to suit your sailing conditions.

As a new owner of an older boat, I think you'll find that lots of your questions have been documented here on our site.  

I also suggest you check out "Wiring Harness," and find out if you need to do this.  It is a safety issue.  Try this: http://www.c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1652&highlight=wiring+harness

Glad to have you with us, and keep the questions coming and we'll do all we can to help.

Ken

I've been using Bio Bor Fuel Treatment and Starbrite diesel water zorb for the past six and a half years with no problems.

John

Seems that the replies may have not gone to your original question, but they were great.  If you consider your original goal:  "I want to simply readjust the berths, keep the storage and allow two people to get out of bed without dinging each other," then the modification makes sense.  

The only question then: "is it worth it financially to do this?"  I don't think the resale value would change much if there was the same space with pretty much the same storage, albeit "adjusted."

I modified the V berth hanging locker into shelves anyway, and like it better, much more storage.

Heck, if you do it right, the factory could eventually offer the "JM Forward Cabin Option!"  

Bill

Lots of ways to do it as mentioned.  Adding another valve on the line will not compromise the operation.

Now I get the BIRTH part!!!

Any idea what the hull # is?

Heck of a resale value feature.

As I recall, Mike Smith had a "white fuzz" story about a year ago on an engine he was looking at on a boat for a friend.  I don't think it was under the head sink, though, but on the engine.

Try a search on fuzz, white, white fuzz, or look up all Mike Smith's posts, and see if it helps.

I agree with Ray, that it sounds like the exhaust riser nipple connection is starting to go.

Read my Mainsheet article on the replacement, see Tech Notes Index, at this URL:  http://www.c34ia.org/mainsheet/pdf/Feb_2004.pdf

Feb. 2004

Ken

Good idea to take it off the autopilot circuit.  Not a good idea to run it off a live circuit, like your cig lighter.

Our 1986 electrical panel, DC side, has a STEREO circuit (fuse).  Doesn't yours?  Our PO had used that one for his Loran.  

The stereo itself should come with an in-line fuse.  Use it in addition to your circuit breaker or fuse at the panel.  The panel's fuse or breaker is likely to be too large for the stereo anyway.

Not being able to see your boat, I can't answer the question of what panel breaker or fuse to use.  Either use a spare, or one that makes sense to you.  I like having the fused switch for the stereo because it's much easier to turn off and on at the panel than at the stereo itself.

A dremel tool would be fine.  I assume there's some kind of trim ring on the stereo, so just be careful enlarging the hole.  You'll want to clear our the hanging locker first, to avoid lots of dust back there.

Guys,

I just wrote this up in August 2004:

http://www.c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1637&highlight=starter+fuse

For those of you who haven't yet, just go replace it NOW.    Sure beats being somewhere where you HAVE to do it.

Also, Jim's post about not holding the glow plug in while you hit the start button is VERY important.  Steve Lyle wrote this up in the last Mainsheet tech notes.

Stu

Ken

For all you guys on a can, what is stopping you from getting a solar panel?  It is SOOOO simple.  Your batteries will last longer, stay charged and work.

There is an incredible amount of this information on this website message board (I know, you know that already, but...).

I also know that this answer/post is beyond your original question, but offer the ideas for your consideration and possible use.

Do a search on "C34 Electrical Systems," which, in many cases, I've added to posts enable you to find them quickly.

Sure, you can get away with two batteries if you plug in when you're traveling.  Your boats, your choices.

BUT: that's not the problem.  The real issue is: you ARE killing your batteries by letting them self-drain (even gel cells will over time).

The amount of $ you spend on a solar panel will have a 2 second payback, because your batteries WILL last longer.  Read Calder and Ample Power Primer.

You (OEM) alternator is doing SQUAT, and this is something you may be aware of already, unless you've upgraded to a new alternator with an external three stage regulator.

Good luck, and hope to have Santa help you consider upgrading your electrical system, or at the very least, getting a solar panel.

BTW, Catalina is pretty much still making NEW C34s with the same old very, very basic electrical system - I just was introduced to a brand new boat:  my understanding is that there are just (2) 8Ds. It certainly would be appropriate to include a separate start battery, parallel the two that Catalina installed, all of which could be done reasonably easily at the factory, instead of people complaining a year later: "Why does my electrical system fail after I've only been on the hook for one night?"  It seems to me that people buying new boats may not have yet determined how they plan to use them, so the basic system is OK: ONLY as long as you plan to stay at a dock, plugged in, every two days; that is, of course, ALSO unless you don't load up with stereo, TV, radar, refrigeration, and the other power consuming gadgets, like computers, interfaced GPS, etc,. that have interested so many boaters.  An energy budget is a good first place to start.  Two separate 8Ds would simply last a lot longer if they were paralleled with the same daily load.  

Here's one for you to answer your original question: (link updated 9/2007)

http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-slow-starter-fix.html

A search on SOLAR finds this, among many:

http://www.c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1563&highlight=solar

(Note: This link doesn't work anymore since it went back to the last board software.  Try a search on SOLAR, lots of material available)  9/2007

Jim Moe's great long article about upgrading the alternator charging system has been posted on Projects at:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-electrical-system-upgrade-2.html

Roc

Try looking at the connection of the exhaust riser to the back of the engine manifold.  That's the only other connection if you smell fumes.  Also check the nipple where the cooling water enters the riser.

Vic call me tonight.  510-208-1906

Dan

Glad you found it,  What's the URL?

As a reminder, folks, the main website search engine does NOT search the TEXT of the Online Tech Notes BECAUSE they are in PDF format.

The ONLY thing it can search are the "headings" of the articles which are posted in the Tech Notes INDEX page.

I have previously recommended to all that you simply COPY the entire Tech Notes INDEX into your word processor, and then use the word processor's own search (CNTL-F) to find a topic.  It's much easier.

Yeah, yeah, I know more work, but c'mon, there's SOOOOO much information here, all's we can do, as Dan asked, is try to help.

Thanks for listening.

Danny

It's philosophical and financial.  Your second post was very helpful.

For $4,100, what has the broker done for you, or the owner for that matter, so far?

If it's nothing, then what do you have to lose by calling the owner?

The "work" the broker puts in, if any, will only be much later as things get going if a deal seems to be working itself out.

The sooner the better to find out, so you can avoid buyer's remorse, and the eventual "I woulda-shoulda-coulda's."