Topics

Guys : I just went on line and the West Texas lighthouse for the Blind is still making the Submarine Laundry Bags.  Give them a call and ask for the price of their seconds!! Found one on Ebay for $30!?!

A thought

  If you haven't seen it there is a site that has sail data (measurements of standard & different types of sails) for a Standard C34;   it is  --- At    Info@Sailrite.Com    Home  Learn   Catalina 34 Standard Sail Data
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                # X-SD-6232

Guys : The MK I C34s are 30 &+ years old !!  The MKII C34s are not that far behind at 20 &+ years old!  The OEM on board is starting to wear out!! So don't be surprised when items fail!!

Recent posts on the fresh and raw water strainer bowls are good examples : 
If you get a crack in the fresh water bowl or bad gasket you'll have to shut down that system.  You can always drink bottled water when the fresh water system is shut down, but no more showers /washing dishes!!  If the impeller can't draw in raw water you won't be able to run the engine and you can sail back to the dock!!

I mention this so you-all start to think about what kind of OEM spares you need to keep on board as well as a possible backup system.  As an example, I replumbed my fresh water system so I could flip a valve and use the foot pump to have fresh water in the galley sink if the electric pump failed. 

The bottom line is that the OEM will wear out!!  Just be prepared!! 

A few thoughts

[See Service Bulletin #107, Kubota Tstats likely won't have a bypass hole, so drill a 1/8" hole, or two, thru the inside edge of its flange so there is a constant coolant flow thru the exhaust manifold when the Tstat is closed.]

Guys : I saw this in Ken's listing of engine items and would like to bring it to everybody's attention:

See Service Bulletin #107, Kubota Tstats likely won't have a bypass hole, so drill a 1/8" hole, or two, thru the inside edge
of its flange so there is a constant coolant flow thru the exhaust manifold when the Tstat is closed.


What a great idea!!  Didn't know that bulletin was out there.

A thought Ron

I wrote this up in the Mainsheet tech notes and in numerous post answers.  I believe that it is now worth a separate New Topic!!

Raw Water Pumps - Call DEPCO 1-800-445-1656  They have the best prices for Oberdoffer pumps and parts.  They are restrained by Sherwood to Sherwood prices on pumps, but they have the rebuild parts.  The main Sherwood problem is the the original comes with a copper/bronze "C" clip - which the salt water eats up - causing it to fail"  I wrote a Mainsheet article on rebuilding and the size of a stainless "C" clip.
For those of you that are not a "Do It Yourselfer" - they will rebuild it for you.


Heat Exchanger - Call Glen Mar Marine 1-800-282-0123   They have parts and part kits for SEM- DURE heat exchangers.   2" & 3" Diameter

A few thoughts   

Guys : I thought it important enough to take this post and make it a separate topic.

Back in the early 1990s I published a chart that showed:  Voltage Reading    Approx. State of Charge    Hydrometer Reading
                                                                                                   12.75                            100%                         1.265
                                                                                                   12.50                              75%                         1.225
                                                                                                   12.25                              50%                         1.190
                                                                                                   12.00                              25%                         1.155
                                                                                                   11.75                              00%                         1.120
I've just listed 5 of the 14 points of that chart.
So each .05 volts represents approx. 5% of charge.
This is battery steady state at rest!!   FYI

A thought   

Incase you missed it  and are interested, "Northern Tool + Equipment" has the Honda 2000W on sale for $899.99.
My flyer also has a $20 off coupon with any $100 purchase!!

[B is the same block in the Kubota tractors F2400 & F2560 (D1005 ESO1)All of the other parts (except the 4th cylinder unique) of the M35BC engine are interchangeable. Just check your parts book that Westerbeke gave you!! The ZF 10 transmission is the same!A few thoughts.]

Guys : I didn't want to bury this in the M35BC posts

The M25XPB is the same block in the Kubota tractors F2400 & F2560  (D1005 ESO1)

All of the other parts (except the 4th cylinder unique) of the M35BC engine are interchangeable.  Just check your parts book that Westerbeke gave you!!
 
The ZF 10 transmission is the same!

A few thoughts.

Fleet 12, Chesapeake Bay, started their 2014 season with a spring meeting on March 15th at the Southern Maryland Sailing Association (SMSA) clubhouse in Solomon's Island. The event was hosted by Hank and Susan Recla and MC'd by our Fleet Captain Ron Hill. A few new members as well as many not-so-new members attended. The meeting started with an excellent social hour of a variety of appetizers. Drinks were served by our very own personal bartender Rich Freeman. After all was mellowed out, an interesting lecture of the tug boat industry on the Chesapeake Bay was presented by Captain Bill Eggert, author of Gentleman of the Harbor, and his lovely wife Nancy. After a short business meeting, a delicious Italian Lasagna dinner was served with tossed salad and Italian bread. To polish off the event, a wonderful wedding cake was served in place of desert in honor of our fleet historians, Walt and Janet Rupp, in celebration of their 60th wedding anniversary. Ron Hill will remain as Fleet Captain. Susan Recla will remain as Secretary/Treasurer. Hank Recla will remain as membership chairman and tool chest manager. Denise Gill volunteered as Cruise Director. Walt and Janet Rupp will remain as Fleet Historians. Denise Gill and others will be sponsoring the Fall Meeting.
   All Chesapeake Bay Catalina 34 owners, members of Fleet 12 or not, are invited to attend our Fall Meeting. For more information on Fleet 12 membership and activities, please contact Hank Recla at 703-491-7189 or hjrecla@comcast.net.

Watch this site for the up coming Raftup Schedule

Great Sailing!
Hank & Susan Recla

Ron Hill  Fleet Captain

 
The fleet is "springing" for the cost of the lecture!! (you pay for the dinner!)
Come join us and contact either Denise or Hank (bottom of this note)

      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

FLEET 12 WINTER RENDEZVOUS

FEBRUARY 8TH @ 1700 HRS (OR 5PM)

THE  DEEP CREEK RESTAURANT
1050 DEEP CREEK AVENUE
ARNOLD, MD 21012

We have reserved dining space "in front of the fire place".  So far we have 16 sailors signed up.

After enjoying each others company and a relaxing dinner, well head over to the lecture which begins at 2000 hrs (or 8pm), located at:

THE SEVERN SCHOOL / PRICE AUDITORIUM - THEATER
201 WATER STREET
SEVERNA PARK, MD 21146

The History and Mystery of the Schooner America

The legendary Schooner America logged a charmed and checkered history that brought her from the famous 1851 race in England to service as a Confederate Blockade Runner to decades as a beloved private yacht.  Yet 90 years after her historic victory she ended up in ruins on the shores of Spa Creek while the extraordinary wartime boat-building of the Annapolis Yacht Yard swirled around her.

SpinSheet Magazine co-founder David Gendell has spent years researching the history and mystery of the schooner and her final days in Annapolis.  His presentation includes plenty of visuals, first-hand accounts, and explorations along the Annapolis waterfront during World War II.

THERE IS STILL ROOM IF YOU HAVE NOT SIGNED UP YET. 
PLEASE EMAIL HANK OR DENISE
HJRECLA@COMCAST.NET
FPOA34@AOL.COM

[in-town C34IA members]

Fleet members and any in-town C34IA members are invited to our gathering after the Boat Show on Friday. See details below:


Catalina 34 Fleet 12
Friday Evening Annapolis Boat Show Dinner
October 11, 2013
The Brail's House
1023 Landon Lane
Arnold, Maryland
410-212-3263 (Maryann's cell)


Arrive anytime after 4:00 PM
Dinner around 6:30 PM

Food and Beverages Provided

Please RSVP by October 8th so we can order food
dbrail@comcast.net

Directions:
•   Take Exit #28 Rt.50/301 to Bay Dale Drive
•   Turn Left onto College Parkway (2nd traffic light)
•   Turn Right onto Shore Acres Road (1st traffic light)
•   Proceed down Shore Acres Road for 2.5 miles staying left at fork in the road.
•   Turn Right onto Magothy Avenue
•   After 2 blocks, turn Right onto Landon Lane.
•   The first house on the left after passing Morgan Lane (Green double doors).

http://mapq.st/15DxlBz

We had 27 people to attend our meeting at Spring Cove marina Solomon's Island MD.  There were 8 crews that arrived by boat!!

So for those that missed the meeting we had a great review of the new electronics and outboard motor technology (propane/electric) by West Marine.

I'm out sailing about the Chesapeake Bay and will post more (with pictures) when I get back home in mid October. So stay tuned !!

Ron Hill

[Spring Cove Marina in Solomon's Island]

Here is the information on our upcoming Fall Meeting.  Also stand by for info on our "get-together" after the Annapolis Sailboat Show in October!!   

CATALINA 34  FLEET 12 / CHESAPEAKE BAY Fall Meeting 2013

When: Saturday September 28, 2013
Where: Spring Cove Marina in Solomon's Island

Agenda:
1400 - 1600 Social,
1600 - 1630 Business Meeting,
1630 - 1730 Guest Speaker Program,
1730 - 2000 Buffet.

Sponsored by: Rich and Patty Freeman

Eric Haaland from West Marine will be showing us the latest gadgets in boating
available at any West Marine store. Also Rich and Patty Freeman will be speaking
on their latest venture down the ICW.

Dinner will be served under tent and will be catered by Bear Creek Barbeque with
BBQ chicken, pulled pork, ribs, BBQ beans, sandwich rolls and BBQ sauce.
Attending members are encouraged to bring an appetizer, salad or desert.
The club will provide beer, wine, soda and water (a well as the remainder of the meal cost).
Slips are available for $2.10/ft. by calling Spring Cove at 410-326-2161 or emailing
www.springcovemarina.com.

This will cost only $10 per person. Checks should be mailed to Susan Recla at
13006 Emmet Ct. Woodbridge, VA 22192. Susan will also be collecting dues which are
only $20 per year.

Please reply to Rich or Patty by 9/13 so we can order the correct amount of food
and drinks by calling 703-569-1413(H) or 703-618-0886 (C), or by emailing
pkimmel@belvoirfcu.org or Teknikr2004@yahoo.com.

See you all soon on Saturday - 28 September!

Jim : Would love to help you, but I just set out for 6 weeks of sailing.  My article is on my home computer, not the laptop I have with me. 
You'll have to get out your past copy of the Mainsheet tech notes (2 or 3 issues back?).
If you don't receive the Mainsheet, Stu Jackson will be more than happy to sign you up.

Maybe Jack might send you a copy of the article if he still has it on his computer.  Hope this helps

 Spring Meeting in Annapolis on 13 April

For those members who were not able to attend - you missed a great talk by
Matt Rutherford who sailed around the American Continents in just over 300
days in his 25ft sailboat!! In all there were 28 members attending.

Here are some important dates for our 2013 Sailing season:
1. Crab feast at Rock Hall Md on 24 August
2. Fleet 12 Fall Meeting in Solomon's Isle Md on 28 September
Both of the above events can be attended by auto or boat!! So mark your
calendars NOW!

With members getting their boats readied for sailing don't forget about
raft-ups. Let Hank or I know about when you plan on being out for a weekend
and would like some guests - you pick the place and the date. That way you,
Hank or I can get out the word by Email to all members.

I plan on being out for the most of May and 1/2 of June. I'll let you know
when we get up to Solomon's and are ready "to receive guests"!!

If you did not attend and forgot, remember to send your $20 dues to Susan.
Ron

[Ahoy Mates]

As of this morning we have 25 people signed up and counting!!!  
So don't be left out if you are interested in attending.  Contact Dave Ewing (Cherette9@aol.com) or call Dave at 443-994-8131 to give a head count.

Ahoy Mates - The location for the Catalina Fleet 12 Spring Meeting has changed...... because Dave and Janet Ewing just bought a house and will be in the middle of move on April 13.....so we have come up with a great alternative....the meeting and dinner will take place on April 13 at :
Adams Ribs
Eastport
912 Chesapeake Ave (Eastport Shopping Center)
Annapolis, Md 21403
410 267 0064
3:00- 4:30 Appetizers (Paid for by the Club) and Cocktails (Buy Your Own)
3:30- 4:30 Talk by Matt Rutherford
4:30-5:45 Meeting to plan the 2013 Sailing Events and then Dinner (Members order from menu and
pay bill to Adams Ribs individually)
5:45 Milling around new bar area at Adams Rib
Adams Rib has generously given use of a section of the restaurant for our club meeting, talk by Matt Rutherford (young man who recently sailed around the Americas in a 25 ft sailboat) and dinner.
Please RSVP as soon as possible so we can let Adams Rib know how many to expect.

Ron Hill -- See you at Adam's Rib

The Spring meet will be held on 13 April 2013 in Annapolis Md (Eastport)

If you are interested in attending block your calendar and let Hank or Susan Recla    (hjrecla@comcast.net ) know if you'd like to attend.

More detailed information will be sent by Email on the time, place and meeting schedule.  Ron hill

Fleet 12 Chesapeake Bay  -  We started out the 2012 season with spring meeting in March.  The season evolved with a few raftups in spring and early summer.  The summer however, was a disaster for gatherings because of the 100+ degree heat.  After the cool down, activities resumed with a Crab Feast in August, a raftup and fall meeting in September.  We ended the season with a gathering after the Annapolis Sailboat Show and were joined by three "out of town" Catalina couples!

At our Fall Meeting Dave & Janet Ewing along with Warren & Susan Cook volunteered to host the Spring Meeting in April at the Annapolis Eastport Yacht club. The exact date is yet to be determined. The members will plan the Fleets schedule of events for the 2013 season.

So if you're a C34 owner on the Chesapeake Bay and would like to meet some fellow C34 owners, plan on joining our group in Annapolis!!  More information will follow.
Ron Hill  APACHE  Fleet 12  

We've had two owners complain that the rivets that hold the wire conduit inside the mast are letting go!  

I'm interested in this problem and wondering why the rivets are letting go? :
1. Were the rivets not installed properly?
2. Are the rivets on an unpainted mast eroding from salt water? The mast was anodized, but not the rivets.
3. Are the rivets on the painted mast eroding from the inside?

Pop rivets are hollow after being installed.  Should people take a bit of caulk and fill that hole to stop any corrosion?

Just interested if we all have a potential problem or not??  I'll be interested in the posts !!  

Fleet 12 members are meeting for supper at Adam's Rib in Eastport at 18:00 on Friday 5 October. 
We invite other C34IA members that are visiting the boat show on Friday to join us for a dutch treat meal together. 

If you are interested in joining the Fleet 12 members contact Bill Asbury at captainasbury@hotmail.com
Bill needs to contact Adam's Rib with a head count by Wednesday 3 Oct.

See you at the Boat Show and Supper.  Ron Hill  Captain Fleet 12 (Chesapeake Bay) C34IA

[basic flaw]

There have been numerous posts on the height.  Some or one crew member likes to look over the top or under the bottom - you and your crew have to come together on that agreement.

However, I see a number of dodgers (and my first one was like that) that have a basic flaw.  The front rail and the back rail need to be at the same height.  If the front rail in much lower than the rear rail, the person of about the same viewing height at the wheel sees a wide dead spot and then must either look under - to see where the boat is going.  There is no reason to have that dead no vision spot.

Check it out and you'll see what I mean.    A thought

Guys, Susan and D. Gill : I just took apart a G908 Sherwood pump (like is on the M35BC engine) and rebuilt it. Not that difficult!!

It took me about 2 hours, but then I was in unknown territory.  Now that I have done it; I could do it on the boat in maybe in 1 hr (for those that like to suffer) or take it home on the workbench and do it easily in < 15 minutes.

I found that you don't have to destroy the oil seal to replace the water seal and you don't need to make a special tool, which makes things easier than with the Oberdoffer. 

I'm sure others have rebuilt theirs, so I surely am not the first.   A few thoughts

My inside information - is that Jim Cantore has been given travel orders to Tampa!!

It's been advertised on TV and in the Heartland America (800)229-2901.  It beats hauling a shop vac to the boat!

It's a liquid transfer pump, looks like a 24" stick and powered by 2 "D" batteries.  It will pump (1 1/2 gpm) out the fridge, the bilge, the head and diesel from a 5 gal jug.

I found this $19.99 pump so handy that I also bought one for home use.  A thought 

I forgot the topic it was in, but a C34 owner asked about replacement parts.  
Here's the data I have

NPT 3/4 threads :

Model # 3350-0040 clear bowl
20ss screen  3800-0029 fine  (for fresh water )
50ss screen  3800-0025 course  (for raw water intake)
gasket  1700-0091

The company is  -- HYPRO Corp, 375 Fifth Ave NW New Brighton MN 55112  (612)633-9300.
                           I got my parts from Atlantic Pump in Richmond Va (804)233-7177

Hope this helps and please put this data in Wi Ki.   Ron

[important]

Guys : I've found that if your important placards(decals) for the head operation/restriction, can be easily replaced. 

Worn or faded - just contact your head manufacturer and they will send you new ones.  I even got a new one for my propane box.  It's a safety concern, so ask!!   

A thought

[same oil brand]

I recently went to buy Mobile 1 for my M25XPBs winter oil change.  I was surprised to find that all weights of Mobile 1 did not have a "C" rating anymore ??

So I called Mobile Corp and found out that ALL Mobile 1 "C" ratings were removed from the bottles.  Mobile told me that Mobile 1 was still rated for CF and below and that the "F" was an old rating for old engines and that's why they took it off of the bottles!!??!!
Still didn't make much sense to me, but that's the way it is! - you can still use Mobile 1 10W-30 or 10W-40 in your Universal engines.

Incase you are interested, the difference in the "C" for compression and the "S" for spark ratings have to do with the additives in that particular oil to help suspend the particulates in the diesel or gasoline oil !

A VERY important thing is to use the same oil brand as differant oil companies use differant additives and you do not what differant additives to clash!!

A few thoughts. 

[is a real concern]

I've been trying to get C34/C36/C30 owners to install the wiring harness upgrade since about 1992.

I've professed this just after I heard Jerry Douglas talk about it at Sail Expo and well before 99% of you had C34 ownership or even thoughts of ownership !!  
Early on there was NO mention of fire!  -  which is a real concern.

I've just received a personal message from a MB poster that mentioned, " I didn't see the AMPmeter even wiggle"! That statement made me sit up and wonder where this owner has been????  
It's all over the Critical Upgrades, in numerous posts on this M Board and in MANY Mainsheet articles.  

If you have read the Mainsheet tech notes you'll see that I'm not in favor of all of the "wiring harness upgrade" as spelled out by Catalina or Seaward.  I am in favor of the rerouting of the alternator charge going to the batteries and eliminating the 8 pin trailor connectors.  I do NOT agree with the engine or engine instrument wiring going to the 8 pin connectors (see my Mainsheet engine replacement article), but instead hard wire direct to the engine and the engine panel.  
Why, I've removed/reinstalled the old engine twice and installed a new engine, ALWAYS disconnecting the wires from the engine itself and NOT the connectors.

If any C34 owners reading this that still have a 1986/1987/1988 with an ammmeter, your boat is at risk!!  
If you are an owner of a 1988/1989/1990/1991/1992 and do NOT have a wire going from the alternator output direct to the + stud on the starter solenoid you are also at risk.  Also Look for the 8 pin "trailer connector" wrapped up in black tape in the port rear of the engine.

Readers, Please take this seriously and inspect your C34s and read the critical updated and look at the extensive writeup on the Wiring Harness Update on our site and at Seaward!!

I give up!!  


 

A friend had installed 4 new Trojan golf cart batteries last fall.  He left the fridge ON and left the boat last Sunday.  When he arrived back this past Friday he found the battery monitor was down 404 Amp Hrs !!
There was a big T-storm with much lightening went thru the area on last Wednesday and apparently a power surge tripped the power breaker to all of the dock power receptacles.

The beer was warm and some sundry items had to be thrown out - they smelled.  For what it's worth!!!

[Critical]

Guys ; A week or so ago I made a post on this topic that seems to have disappeared, but anyway it's a Critical item to check !

There are only a few absolute critical items to check on a C34 :
1. Wiring Harness - if not changed you can have a FIRE on board!!
2. Old Style Alternator Bracket - if you have an M25(21hp) engine with the old style alternator bracket (over the top), that bracket will break, puncturing the oil filter RUINING the engine and alternator !!
3. Screen in the Fuel Pick-up Tube - eventually that screen will become clogged and the engine will STOP from fuel starvation !!

I keep bringing these up because year after year because I keep seeing pictures of boats on this message board that show that critical items 1 & 2 have NOT been done and have to be pointed out to the owner!!

In the case of the pick -up tube screen, there will never be a picture for any of us to point out to that owner and it isn't an obvious thing for a mechanic to check.  After a mechanic has spent a few hours @ $$$/hr on why the engine isn't getting any fuel, he will finally check for that screen $$ later!!

Here's the problem that I described back in the early 1990's:
Catalina procured their fuel tanks from a manufacturer that put screens in the pick -up tubes for mainly gasoline applications.
That tubular VERY VERY fine mesh screen fits inside the 3/8" fuel hose.  It is crimped at the end and sealed with a fuel resistant sealant. Then that screen is inserted in to the fuel hose leaving only a half inch or less of surface screen exposed to filter the the diesel. 
As we all know microscopic water particles in the diesel fuel tend to grow algae in diesel.

The bottom line is to remove the screen and let your Racor filter do it's job, because the screen will get clogged with that algae and the engine will quit at the most inopportune time - guaranteed!!

[adjusting arm over the top]

Someone asked how you can tell if you have the old or the new improved bracket?

The answer is simple and easy to spot - the old bracket that's prone to failure has the adjusting arm over the top of the alternator.
The new bracket assembly has the adjusting arm under the alternator.

The service bulletin put out by Universal Engines applied to all of the M25 engines (1986 C34s) and some of the early M25XP engines (early 1987 C34s).   

Guys : Today, the Weather Channel sent Jim Cantorie to Philadelphia to cover the East coast snow storm.  
The NFL saw Jim entering town and called off the Eagles game!    

If you ever see Jim entering your county, brace yourself or get out of town - because IT'S a Comming!!  An observation !!

While researching the question that Andre asked about "the fuel filter on my M35BC engine"  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5965.0.html I found a surprise - they added another filter.
 
In the "past few years" Westerbeke added another fuel filter just before the aux fuel pump (lift pump).  It's between the fuel tank and the fuel pump on the engine.  It is part# 48076 and is NOT shown in any of the parts listing (Parts manual) !!
 
There is a label on it that reads "Westerbeke P/N 48076   80 micron fuel pump   Protection Filter  
Gasoline & Diesel Engines   Change Filter Annually"

Interesting.  Just wanted to let you all know.    

[all]

There has been some traffic about the merits of certain water pumps over other brands.  I want to point out to everyone that eventually all water pumps will leak.

The seals tend to wear out and/or the shaft gets a wear pattern.  Either of these conditions or both will cause a leak.  I believe that the Oberdoffer is a good pump as is the Sherwood pump.  
One of the big advantages of the Oberdoffer is that parts can be purchased at discount vrs. the Sherwood that controls part prices like Yanmar.

All raw water pump have "weep holes" to let you know that it could be leaking.  All RW pumps have two internal seals.  One seal keeps the water in the pump and the other seal keeps the oil in the engine (with the weep holes in between).

There are advantages and disadvantages to each of these two pumps.  (I might mention that there was also a third pump by the Johnson Co that was put on some of the early M25 engines). Some Sherwood, but mostly the Oberdoffer pumps were on the M25XP engines with the 3 " HX.

The Oberdoffer pump has all non corrosive metal parts and is easier to service (impeller/shaft change) on the engine, but must be removed to change seals.  
The Sherwood has a corrosive center section and must be removed to have the seals changed, but is easier to change seals, once removed.  The impeller can be changed on the engine, but the bolt heads are on the engine side ?!?

There has been some posts about changing the Sherwood pump out for an Oberdoffer.  I saw Joe Joyce (Westerbeke Service Manager) at the Annapolis boat show and mentioned this topic to him.  We agreed that the Oberdoffer could be modified to fit, but he said the Oberdoffer pumped 50% less water !!
If you look at both pumps it's obvious that the pump cavity of the Sherwood is larger and its impeller has almost twice as many blades.  

The bottom line is that I'd be cautious before changing out pumps.  
The higher engine temperature (less raw cooling water) may not show up immediately while the hoses/HX are clean, but I'm sure that the increased temperature will eventually show up.  

A few thoughts before changing pumps on your M35BC & M25XPB engines.  

[B]

Guys : The M25 & M25XP have completely different (separate) circuitry for the aux electric fuel pump (lift pump) & oil pressure switch than the M25XPB, M35A and M35BC engines.

Not too sure if OSHA got involved, but I suspect it!

I first got questions from a 1993 M35A (30hp) owner.  His engine was made by Universal (Westerbeke) after it was taken over from Oshkosh in the early 1990's. He noted that the lift pump was wired into the "spring loaded" glow plug post on the key switch.  My first answer was that Poco at the factory, put the connection on the wrong post!

Then the question of the double pole on the oil pressure switch came up !??!  
I've written this up before, but here it comes again:
With the ciricuitry of the double pole oil pressure switch - here's what happens.  The key switch is turned ON, no fuel pump is activated until the key switch is turned to the spring loaded position which also activates the glow plugs.  The glow plugs heat (warning not to exceed approx. 20 seconds or they'll burn up!!) and the lift pump pumps fuel to the injection pump.  When you release the key from the spring loaded position the fuel pump cuts off and will only start back up after the starter is hit, the engine is running and there is oil pressure.

The entire idea behind this circuitry is so that when the engine loses oil pressure, the lift pump will cut off causing the engine to to stop.
The only problem is that the C34 has a fuel tank that is higher than the engine and the gravity flow of fuel will keep the engine running.  That's why there are 2 (+) connections on the oil pressure switch!!

Owners have to realize that there are 4 different engines in the C34 production and a fifth if you repower with an M25XPB like I did.

 A few thoughts

[other than]

I'm wondering how many of you guys that have the M35BC engine have experienced a broken alternator bracket?  The piece that holds the alternator to the engine.  NOT the adjusting arm.
 
I am Especially interested in those of you that are using other than the OEM alternator like a Balmar/Powerline/etc.

Does anyone know the size and length of the scupper hoses?  

I was asked by one of the Message Board readers about the aluminum strips that I put under that hatch to stop the squeak/squeal when you open or close that hatch.

I decided to answer his question with a new topic, because that was my 1st attempt(aluminum strips) -that only worked for a short time before the noise started up again.

The real fix that now has lasted 10/15? years is the lexan strips that replaced the aluminum strips - they "silenced the beast" and do last.  My original lexan strips are still in place.
I took some 1/8" - 3/16" lexan (NOT acrylic as it can crack) and cut two 1 inch wide and 5 foot long strips.  I placed them under the companion way hatch inside the track the hatch rides in.  I drilled a small countersunk hole in each of the cockpit ends of the strips and screwed them (dab of caulk) to the inside of that track.  The lexan(polycarbonate) is "slippery" enough that the hatch glides over the strips with out the shriek that can "wake the dead".  
Problem solved

[Someone]

My slip mate next to me has a Westerly 34 (center cockpit) about the late 1980s vintage.  He has a Volvo engine and a Volvo drippless packing gland. 
Before he left the dock he ran his normal "preflight", which included squeezing the billows of the packing gland.  All was found to be OK.
He'd traveled (motered) about 2 miles down river when he asked the 1st Mate to get his chart that was down below.  The 1st Mate came back and said the water was just above the floor boards !!  He called out a MAYDAY and several people responded. 
Coming to his aide was Tow Boat US, a local Sea Rescue and a some other individual boats.  Someone thru him a line which he secured to his boat and was under tow.  The boat was eventually being towed to the travel lift by the Sea Rescue from the original "tower".  After the boat was lifted the 1st tower claimed SALVAGE !!

The moral to this story is two fold :
1. The first question to ask when someone throws you a line is "is this a tow or salvage" !!  Then you have to decide if you will accept or decline.
2. If you have a bellow for your drippless packing be aw here that when the bellows breaks, you better find a travel lift fast.  I've never been an advocate of the bellows.  As I've sad many times you can use a shoe string to stuff in a regular packing gland if you have nothing else.

As I find out more I'll keep you posted.  Why he didn't beach the boat is beyond me, as we only have a 3 ft tide?

In the Jan 2010 issue of Seaworthy, Boat US talks about towing vs salvage.  You might want to read it!!

A few items to think about. 

Guys, Susan and D. Gill : There have been a number of posts on the weight of a C34.
In a recent post Paul Leible is going to have the yard weigh his boat when it goes back into the water in May. 
I have a word of caution: All State laws require cranes and other such heavy lifting construction equipment to have their strain gage/s calibrated every year or two - for safety reasons.  This calibration insures the operator doesn't overload the lifting device and cause an accident (ie. crane topples over!)  Apparently this law doesn't apply to travel lifts (that I know of or it isn't being enforced).  Most boat yards (in Virginia anyway) have broken strain gages or they have never been checked.  So the weight that they give you for each sling could be suspect. 

The bottom line is if you want to really get a good weight for your C34, you need to get a son-in-law State Trooper to arrive at the marina - with a TRUCK Weigth Scale!!  They use those gadgets to weigh trucks and impose overload $$ fines!!  That's as close as you can get to a correct weight. 
A consideration.   

[STANDARD transom]

Does anyone know the propane hose length from the LPG tank box to the stove? - STANDARD transom with the propane locker box on a plywood platform over the steering quadrant in the center of the aft lazerette. 

[To make any self locking nut LOCK, the standard is to have a portion of one thread showing above the nylon mechanism or open end of the nut.]

I was looking at some some posts of pictures (critical updates) with self locking nuts on this Message Board.  To my surprise I found some nuts that although they are of the self locking style were installed and the self locking mechanism was NOT engaged - therefore they are not locked!!!

First of all there are two types of self locking nuts. One has thin vertical serrations which are slightly bent inward (operating like a spring) and the other has a nylon "bushing" embedded in the open end.  The all metal (no nylon) are the expensive type.  Another style, but not a true self locking nut is a nut that has a peen (hammered indentation) to make the threads bind rather than turn easily. 
The reuse of self locking nuts is another discussion all in itself!!

To make any self locking nut LOCK, the standard is to have a portion of one thread showing above the nylon mechanism or open end of the nut.
If you can't have that thread showing you are fooling youself and might better use a thin nut with a lock washer.  There are thinner self locking nuts available, but they are usually special order items.

"Check your Nuts!!"   A few thoughts

Guys : I posted this in reply to a long string of answers to "Overheating" posts and the "same colored hose as your engine", but thought it should be information that all should read. 

The problem that you get into is that a hose usually starts to break down from the inside and at the outside radius of a bend.  So you really don't know how good/bad old hoses really are.  I usually change out hoses about every 8-10 years, but you need to inspect each hose every season looking for cracks and chaff spots.

The factory tended to use the expensive wire reinforced hose for every connection (they buy in bulk).  That isn't necessary and in one case I know of may have been detrimental !!  You only need wire reinforced hose for connections that go INTO the suction side of a pump or the hose makes an acute turn roughly 45 degrees or more.  That insures the hose will not collaps from suction or be restricted inside by the bend. 
The hoses that go on the OUTPUT of a pump only need to be nylon reinforced.  There are some exceptions such as preformed hoses to make tight or screwy turnes, fuel rated hoses and exhaust hose that needs to be exhaust rated.  Most of the hoses wire/nylon need to be of high quality and temperature rated (heater) hoses.

The determinital wire hose I mentioned is the hose from the HX anti syphon to the nipple on the exhaust riser (raw water mixes with the exhaust gases).  After I replaced the factory wire reinforced hose with a nylon (MORE flexable) hose, I didn't have any more nipple welds cracking. Too much engine vibration transmitted thur that stiffer wire hose, I suspect !!!
     
A few thoughts

When I got back home I checked my Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze bottle.  It says:

1. May be added to the antifreeze/coolant of any make or model auto or light truck on the road today,     foreign or domestic.
2. May be added to ANY color antifreeze
3. Protects aluminum and all other engine metals
4. Provides extended life protection for up to 150,000 miles or 5 years

This is definitely not Dex - what ever that brand is!!
   
I first ran across the Prestone extended life (orange in color) when it was in the new C35 (M35BC engine) that came from the dealer. 

I wouldn't immediately rush out an change my antifreeze, but if you were to change a hose, replace a riser or have some other reason to drain the antifreeze - I'd replace it with the Orange Extended life.  Also remember to dilute with distilled/rain water, so the chemicals in tap water don't change the chemistry. 
A few thoughts

Guys : I believe that we are our own worst enemy when it comes to a topic subject and sticking on that same topic !! 
I wanted to re look at a particular topic, but the search turned up BLANK.  I never know the correct title to look for so I have to guess.  Then was it might be in another title, but the discussion wondered and it was in an unrelated topic ?!?  So :
1. Make your topic title specific
2. Don't wonder off that topic within that discussion
3. If you have an unrelated question - make a new topic, don't ask it in an unrelated topic

[Buss GLN-10 or AGC-10]

I checked my Cold Machine Operating Manual (copyright 1985) on page 15 states:
"If you connect in reverse (wire polarity), the fuse will blow and the system will not operate.  Should this occur, correct your wiring and replace the fuse.  A spare fuse is bagged and stapled to the compressor wiring harness (Buss GLN-10 or AGC-10 )."

I checked mine today and I have a red 10amp fuse in place.  As I said on this message board and in a Mainsheet article years back, too large a fuse (15amp) was installed in my unit.  A bundle of line fell down and blocked the cooling fan causing the fuse to blow - that's when I found that the fuse was too large.  I replaced the 15 amp fuse with a 10 amp (about 10years ago) and haven't had a problem since. (the dock lines are secured now!!!)

Someone asked about the thermostate settings.  #1 is the warmest and #7 is the coldest.  I took some red finger nail polish and made marks on the dial    a dot by #4  , a "-" at #1 and "+" at #7.  Now you don't need to see the numbers anymore!!

A few thoughts for what it's worth. 

[Join the C34IA]

I'm in the process of writing an article for the Mainsheet Tech notes on this topic. That seal just spoiled Pete's recent sail when he found engine oil "all over the place".  It sounds like this is the second time as he pulled the engine and thought that seal was fixed.

It's ironic, but the same thing happened to me (spoiling my fall cruise this past year).  Pulled the engine, fixed the seal, reinstalled the engine and it leaked again!  In my case it was also the rear seal.  As I recall that seal is about $30(from Kubota), but a GIANT pain to get to it.  My first seal had a 1 " tear in the lip.  The second problem was that the replacement seal did not remain sealed and was coming out (not seated) on the starboard side.  I'd guess that it was just a matter of time till it would have popped  completely out. 

This past week I also got a call from a friend with a 1989 C34.  In his case the front crankshaft lip seal had a split in it, but the results were the same!  I'll go into more detail in that Mainsheet article.

I believe that what's happening is that age of our engines (20years) is starting to enter into the equation.  Even though 10,000 hours is touted for a diesel, the seals are getting old and at our usage (>200 hrs/yr) will never last to reach that number!!! The owners that use their boats all year around may get closer to the 10,000 hr number, but old age will eventually catch up with them!!

I don't believe that there is a magic preventive, but you should be alert to what's happening to your engine and overheating doesn't help matters any:
I caught my leak with a fuel diaper under the engine.  It was a small drop at first so I decided to watch it and still go on a 6 week cruise.  I check the engine every 30 min or so (religiously). It finally got to the point that we had started home after 5 weeks, but had to shut off the engine (couldn't keep oil in it) and accept a tow for the last few miles (less than 15 NM from the slip).

What to look for every 30-45 min:
Look at the raw water pump weep hole and make sure that no oil or water is coming out.  Pete would    have caught that leak had he done that check -- as I wrote in the Mainsheet Tech notes mid 90s -"Wouldn't it be a shame if a raw salt water leak that was let go caused the oil pan to rust out"!
Look thru the alternator door in the head (MK1 only) and observe the oil sender, starter and bell housing.  Also look at the alternator (a friend looked in once and the nut on the main + lead had backed off!)
Look thru the starboard access door and you can also see the packing gland and some of the white fuel diaper.  You can also see if there are any fuel leaks from the lines, injector pump, injectors and filter.
Look at the raw water strainer (MK1 only) thru the door under the head sink. Also note the racor filter
All in all, inspect your engine while it's running to make sure everything is OK.

You won't be hearing from me too much on the Message Board anymore.  Most of the questions have already been answered and they are well documented - you just have to read them. 
I plan on spending more time writing new Mainsheet Tech note articles.  So those of you that like to see what's new in the solutions area, should Join the C34IA and stop getting free info off our web site Only 700 members out of over 1700 hulls is not really a great showing!

Fair Winds, Ron   


 



 

For all you guys that are Captains and Fathers, may you have Fair Winds and a Happy Crew!!   

[No]

Guys : Ran into a problem today that meant shutting down the engine (more on that some other time).  Then the wind quit!  I checked into being towed 12.8NM with Boat US towing.  I was not in an isolated area.  The costs were between $800 and $1100 - No I didn't make a typo!!!

Guess that with inflation and the increased fuel costs, the bottom line is that anthing less than "unlimited towing" is worthless - so don't bother with any lesser programs !!!!!!   

Guys : I plan on throwing off the dock lines tomorrow for a 6 week cruise (wherever the wind takes us on the Chesapeake Bay).
Plan on enjoying "the hell" out of my newly installed windlass (INSIDE the 2 door anchor well).  It's amazing what a double hernia surgery last fall will cause someone to design!!

You won't be hearing from me a often.  The web site has too many graphics and takes too long to download.  When I get to a place with WiFi - I'll log on.  Otherwise I'll not chew up cell phone batteries - too cheap to pay for a 12 month hi speed that I'll only use 2 months out of a year.

Hard to believe, but 99% of all your questions being asked have already answered on this web site.  My student and librarian will feed you the proper link (smile). 

Have fun