Messages

Paul
Ours is a Amaron Pro 95A/h zero maintenance ... not sure what the cca is.
We also have 2 of the same for the house, so all 3 when cranking the motor.
I will get bigger house A/h when these ones fail though.
cheers
Tony

Hey
A HUGE thanx Paul.
I received your old trim plates in the mail yesterday after getting back from Moonshadow and replacing the macerator.
The 34 is in great condition and will make the old trim plate complete.
cheers again
Tony

Clay
I have some pics on a post called 'bottom peel' of blisters we found. I can't do a cut and past on my iPad.
I wasn't able to get a pic of the barrier coat before they did the anti foul.
Good luck with it
Tony

My thoughts were a strainer to catch impeller bits and be visible. I have a strainer at the intake. It would be easier to clean out a strainer than open the pump or HX
Tony

What do you guys think of putting a strainer between the pump and HX? Just a thought ... Tony

Clay

I am going through that process now.
Two weeks ago when out for a extended weekend we had some warmer (180-190+) than usual engine temps.
Found the intake filter cage jambed with debris. Cleaned but still warmer. Looked at the impeller and 2 fins missing so replaced.
Still warmer. Removed hose from pump and flow seemed ok (about 5lt in 30 secs at idle ... normal is 20ltr/min at 2500.
So now mechanic is taking over and doing a full service. ... Here's hoping.
Tony

Thanx for the link Ron
Very impressive.
Team USA ?  The first two guys, both trimmers are aussies. HaHa
In that case    Go USA

Tony

Juan

It should be just a matter of unscrewing the face plate screws, (ours ( Johnson) has 6 but yours may differ depending on pump brand) and prizing the face plate off. Our impeller then just pulls straight out. Clean the old gasket from the plate and pump housing, lube and fit impeller, replace gasket and screw plate back on.
Ours has a centre pin pre fitted to the impeller that fits in an end slot in the shaft. Others may have a keyway which could be more difficult to remove.
good luck
Tony

PS ... Clay ... you got me whilst typing

Paul

When I read the link that Dave put up, CD say they only have one font for the C34. I only need the 34, actually the 4, as it is missing from our port side.
I will happily take you old ones off your hands and reimburse you any costs. PayPal would be easiest.
cheers
Tony

Robert

Would you post me the 34 after removing it if you fit a new one? Ours is missing the 4 on the port side.
I am in Australia but will cover the postage
cheers
Tony

Advice I was given years ago for canvas is that bleach does NOT kill the fungus, only takes away any colour. High concentrate saltwater will kill the fungus and then brush away when dry. Maybe would work on the teak too?

Tony

Leave them raw ...

clean every year with a teak clean or deck clean and good scrub.

will always look nice and one job less so you get to sail more

cheers
Tony

Down here in Oz, ours is a Johnson pump (never a mention of them from you northerners), maybe modified, as others not available but works fine with part of a sailing magazine page as a gasket I made when I had some trouble with no raw water one night with the engine running. I had a spare impeller  but no gasket.

enjoying our summer sailing
cheers
Tony

I may have said this on a similar post. I now use a sliding midship cleat on the outer rail as it is not in use when sailing.... Tony

Hi Brian
We are on Pittwater and have just ordered through Hood at Brookvale a new 135% genoa.We have asked for luff foam which makes a better shape when partly furled. Ours will have a high clew as we don't race either and don't need a deck sweeper. I will say though I wouldn't mind a optional smaller jib, say 100% , for use in those stronger wind days. The furler line fouled only Friday in the late afternoon nor easter and took a bit under load to rectify. Good luck with your choice
Tony