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Topics - Roc

Main Message Board / ST4000 link failure
June 05, 2022, 06:20:08 PM
Hi everyone,
Finally launched Sea Life last Tuesday morning and that afternoon, motored from Rock Hall to Annapolis to our new home port on Back Creek.  All went well and all electronics functioned properly. Friday we went out for our first sail and when I switched on the electronics, I got an error message on the Autopilot; "STLK FAIL".  The autopilot  was inoperable, the knot meter did not take the SOG information from the GPS.  Would appreciate if anyone can point me in the right direction to diagnose the problem.  All instruments are Raymarine, ST4000, model year 2000.  All have worked fine up until now.  Thanks!
Main Message Board / Broken anemometer fin
August 06, 2021, 12:27:36 PM
Hi all
I plan to call Raymarine to find out about a replacement. But thought I'd reach out to you all since maybe someone had to find a similar replacement. The fin that provides the wind direction apparently has broken off. Probably the plastic became brittle over time. It's 20 years old so it's no surprise. My wind instrument is an ST60. Vintage year 2000. Any tips or concerns would be appreciated.
Main Message Board / Battery Equalization question
July 20, 2020, 12:35:13 PM
Hi all,
Thought an electrical savy person can have a reason for this situation.  I have 6 volt golf cart batteries that I started equalizing last weekend.  I have a Truecharge 40+ charger.  Here's the situation.....  I isolated the bank to be equalized by putting my selector switch to the reserve battery.  So my systems were powered by the reserve battery and the bank to be equalized was off the grid.  I triggered the equalization process on the charger.  All seemed like it was going fine.  I washed my hands, and the water pump went on.  When the pump cycled, I noticed the volt meter reading (set to read the bank that was being equalized) dipped down a few tenths of a volt.  As soon as I turned the water off and the pump stopped, the volt meter returned to the display it was before the pump cycled.  I switched the volt meter to read the reserve battery.  I turned on the water and noticed the volt meter reading to significantly change, which made sense since that battery was taking the load based on the selector switch position.  I can't figure out why the volt meter moved when it was reading the bank being equalized when the pump cycled.  Intuitively, that bank should not have any load since my selector switch was set for the other battery.  I checked the connections on the battery switch and it all seemed correct.  Any idea of why the meter moved a few tenths of a volt?
Hi everyone,
This past season we didn't put Sea Life in the water.  With other plans over the summer, we decided to take a hiatus.  Everything was winterized for last winter and over the summer, we did not do or change anything to the systems.  I'm thinking since everything has been untouched, we can go through another winter.  Any thoughts if I'm missing something?
Main Message Board / Inflatable repair in Annapolis
October 01, 2016, 05:45:31 AM
Hi everyone.
The rub rail on my inflatable dinghy has come off. Probably due to the glue being dried out. The dinghy is in great shape otherwise. The 2 part glue and primers needed is not cheap, along with the amount needed to do the job.  I was thinking of just having a repair shop do it. I know there are places on Annapolis.  Anyone know of a place with good service?

Main Message Board / Mast fair leads
September 07, 2016, 11:31:23 AM
Just curious, but what do most use these two fair leads at the base of the mast for?  I haven't used them for anything, but wondering if they could make something better......
Don't need anymore because I bought a Mast Climber.  $30 plus shipping.
Rather than add to the existing topic which is about prevention (which I copied the link below), here is a new thread about what I'm seeing on the terminals.,7201.0.html

I've had 6 volt golf cart batteries since 2009 and they've been working great, and still do.  For the first time, last year I noticed white powder (corrosion) on the negative terminal.  I cleaned it with a water/baking soda paste, wiped everything off and assembled together.  This season, I've noticed the same thing (not as much as last year).  Up until now, the terminals have been spotless.   I see that this is usually the result of improper charging.  I have a Truecharge 40 (at least 10-12 years old model, not the newer model, but original Truecharge design), and it seems to be working same as usual.  I have a digital volt meter and I can see the charging sequence looks correct.  I have the settings at "Flooded" and "Charge/bulk/absorption".  I have a temperature gauge, so the temp setting is not used.  I also notice green corrosion on the positive terminal, right where the shrink tubing ends, but not on the terminal itself. 

I do realize, the terminals are not "tinned" as Mainesail suggests, however up until recently, they have stayed clean.  When I cleaned the terminals last year, I did rub some Super Lube on them, but maybe I didn't put enough?

Pictured is the negative post.  You can see white powder.  The other negative post has the temp gauge, which the terminal appears to be very clean.  The last picture is the positive post and you can see green corrosion near the shrink tubing.

Interested in any feedback on this.

Main Message Board / Shrink and Insulated terminals
June 21, 2016, 05:00:04 PM
Hi All,
I purchased the Pro HST crimp tool from Mainesail's site.  Real nice quality product.  It's pricey, but it looks like you can just about make a fool-proof crimp.  I like the nice wide jaws.  I have various terminals, and they all seem to be the insulated type (I'm throwing away all the cheap ones after reading Mainesail's how-to info).  I'm wondering if these insulated terminals really won't work with this tool.  In the past, I've used these terminals with adhesive lined shrink tubing to make a water-tight seal.  I don't have all too much of these various terminals, but if they won't work, it's a shame to throw them all away and get the shrink sleeve terminals.

Main Message Board / Cruising Compass
February 11, 2016, 08:37:09 AM
Saw this picture in Cruising Compass....  Hey, is this the same Mike Stimmler on this site?  If so, how did you snap it....hanging over the edge of an aircraft carrier?
Main Message Board / Won Mantus Anchor (well sort of)
December 22, 2015, 07:09:10 PM
Hi all,
Not trying to open up a anchor discussion...  but I won a gift certificate from Mantus, but just short of enough to buy a 35b anchor. I would need to kick in $130 plus shipping to get an anchor worth $330.  I currently have a 35lb Delta but not really in the market for a new anchor. However, the Mantus is a new generation of anchor and the Delta is old technology.  I plan to look at PS to see what results they got on their anchor tests.  But just wanted to see if anyone here has had any experience with the Mantus and is it worth it.  I could use the certificate to buy a few smaller items that add up to $200 instead of buying one large item.
Main Message Board / Electronic charts for Chartplotters
November 17, 2015, 04:49:29 AM
Hi everyone,
I'm gathering information on chartplotters and the one thing I see that is so overwhelming, is the many different electronic charts available and what chartplotter uses what.  Here's a recent article from SAIL Magazine.  Not only do you need to search out what chartplotter to buy, but then you have to rummage through all the different electronic charts and see what chartplotter uses which software.  You can't buy a chartplotter, then choose whatever electronic chart to use.  You have to make a decision based on both the hardware, and the software it will support.  Many chartplotters have the ability to use multiple charts.  Garmin, on the other hand, seems to only support their own "blue chart g2".

Interested in getting dialogue on what's good and not so good with respect to chartplotters and the software they support.

Main Message Board / Salon speaker location options
September 06, 2015, 01:31:53 PM
I did a search and found the posts describe cockpit speaker location.  I'm looking to upgrade the stereo.  I currently have Poly Planar box speakers mounted on the bulkhead facing aft.  They don't have a great sound and was thinking that flush mounted speakers, mounted in a cabinet somewhere, would give better bass and better overall sound quality.  I understand that speakers need to be mounted in an enclosed cabinet to function properly, and I'm wondering were you folks have installed them to get some ideas.  I'm thinking about the the upper little cabinets, just forward of the port (ports below the rubrail) on both sides of the salon.  They would face directly aft.  In measuring the available teak to make the hole (I hate to drill into good wood!!), I wouldn't be able to fit a 6 1/2 diameter speaker, but would need a smaller diameter to fit.  Has anyone put a speaker in those cabinets and do they give good sound?  If anyone has pictures of their mount locations, that would help with some ideas.

Main Message Board / Stereo watts per channel
May 19, 2015, 04:02:12 AM
Hi everyone,
I installed my stereo 15 years ago (AM/FM/CD), and back then, the CD player was the thing to have.  Now... it would be nice to have bluetooth, USB, MP3, etc..  inputs, so I'm investigating some new stereos.  I have a question to the audiophiles out there.  The speakers I have in the cockpit (Polyplanar) are rated as 40 watts max.  The speakers I have in the cabin (also Polyplanar) are rated as 50 watts max.  The current stereo is 40 watts per channel. The stereos I'm looking at now are rated as 60 watts per channel.  Is there any issue with getting a stereo rated higher than the speakers it is driving?  I'm thinking no, because I believe the max watts output is when you have the volume blasting, which is unlikely the way we listen to our music.  Also, I'm looking at a Dual stereo at WM, and Defender is big on marketing Boss Audio products, since they seem to be showcasing most stereos by that company.   The Boss Audio stereos look iteresting and at a good price.   I'm in no rush, so I'm waiting for something to go on sale.  Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Main Message Board / Catalina Plant on "How it's Made"
January 20, 2015, 07:55:29 AM
Hi all,
Yesterday my daughter and I were watching a show called How it's Made.  It's a show that has 3 or 4 different segments on how something is made.  Each segment only lasts several minutes during the 30 minute episode.  It's very interesting if nobody has seen it before......  Well, in yesterday's episode, one of the segments was called Luxury Sailboats.  It started out by showing how a rudder was made, the stainless steel stock and the expandable foam filler that creates the internal part.  It then showed the rudder mounted to the hull of a boat that was in production.  Then the camera showed how the reinforcement structure grid was bonded to the hull and showed the two parts coming together...  As we were watching, I said to my daughter I wonder what plant they are in, because it still was unclear as to what brand of boat was being built.  The next shot was the deck coming out of the mold with fixtures mounted and then the camera panned the internal cabinetry and systems mounted in the hull.  I still couldn't figure out what brand it was.  Well, near the end of the segment, it showed the finished hull going into the Test Pool.  At that point I said to my daughter that the stern looked like one of the 5 series Catalinas!  Sure enough, the camera then showed the boat sailing, as it panned back to get the full side of the hull, the Catalina model at the aft quarter section of the sheer stripe was seen then the camera pointed up to the sails to show the Catalina red and white diamond on the mainsail.  Funny that the name of the segmant was "Luxury Sailboats"!  I guess we can all feel proud to be in the same camp as Sabre, Oyster, Passport, Hylas, etc.  :clap
Hi everyone,
I'm planning on installing some thru-deck fittings and read through Mainesail's "potting" technique using a dremel.  Has anyone used the West System 610 product in a cartridge?  This stuff already has the epoxy, hardener and thickener built in. All you do is squeeze it out and mix (or use mixing adapter on the end and it comes out pre-mixed).

Not sure if this epoxy product is appropriate for doing the job of sealing the balsa core.


Main Message Board / Butyl for marelon/plastics
October 31, 2014, 10:01:06 AM
Hi All,
I know Butyl is the best way to seal stainless fittings, but is it also good for marelon or plastics (I'm not talking about below the waterline thru hull).  What I mean is a scupper thru hull that is above the waterline.

Hi all...
I would like to upgrade to new rope clutches.  Spinloc and Lewmar seem to be the most talked about.  I would like to know which ones do you like and what size/model works.  Each company has different models that span overlapping line sizes.  I'm going to measure my lines and double check them with the owner's manual.  Going to the boat show and talk to the suppliers, but would like to get people's actual feedback on real life experience.  :thumb:

Hi All,
Does anyone know the screw size (length, thread, etc.) of the two screws that hold the Raymarine Wind Indicator bracket to the top of the mast?  See attached picture of the two screws in question.

Main Message Board / Broken Alternator bracket M35B
April 22, 2014, 07:12:53 AM
Hi all,
Wanted to see if anyone has found this to happen on their M35B engine.  Attached is a picture of the alternator bracket. When I was checking things over to prepare for spring launch, I noticed the alternator to wobble and upon further inspection, found the bracket to be cracked.  Called Joe at Westerbeke and he said he may have seen this once or twice since the introduction of the M35B in the late 90's.  I have a 100 amp alternator, so he feels that might be the reason for the break.  However, I know many have upgraded alternators, so that reason may not be all that true.  Based on the dust I see in the areas that are broken, I was probably running the engine with this cracked bracket, since the broken areas are not shiney from a recent brake.

any thoughts?

Hello everyone,
I've never used the center drawer in the v-berth because we keep the cushion insert in the up position.  With that insert above the drawer, you can't get to the contents, because the insert blocks the opened drawer.  What I did was convert the drawer to a stationary cabinet shelf with a door.  I took the facing of the drawer and added two hinges at the bottom.  That now has become the door.  I created the enclosed cabinetry by creating a box using the sides and back of the drawer (sides cut down to length) and plywood top and bottom.  This box is attached to the lip on the frame around the drawer that screws into the fiberglass.  I didn't go too deep with the cabinet, since I didn't want to impede access to the depth and speed transducers right below.  This was a relatively simple transformation and makes usable storage space which was previously not accessible.  I painted the inside with off-white interior trim gloss paint that matches the interior fiberglass pretty well.  The finished product looks like it was OEM!
Hi all...
Has anyone bought one of those top down furlers for their spinnaker?  How do you like it?  There are many out there (Karver, Selden, Profurl Spinex, etc, etc....) which did you buy and why.
Doing some fact finding and thinking about getting one.

Thanks  :D
Main Message Board / Rust in Air Conditioning pan
May 06, 2013, 10:09:54 AM
Hi all,
I have a Marine Air unit and it works fine.  It's about 11 years old.  I noticed the bottom of the pan is getting rusty.  It's not large pieces of rust scale that are falling off, but a reddish tan "blush".  When you rub your finger along the bottom, the rust dust is on your finger.  Here's my question...  I have a Mermaid Condensator that sucks out the condensate from the pan.  At the tail end of last season, I noticed the hose and fine mesh filter was full of this rust particulate.  The particles are very fine and make their way past the filter and into the hose beyond and into the condensator.  This is the filter and screen that is advised by Mermaid for their Condensator unit.  My thought is if there was something I could pour into the pan that could solidify on the bottom to contain the rust and keep it away from the water.  Maybe some kind of liquid plastic, epoxy or something that is self leveling.  I don't want to do anything elaborate, but something easy to keep this thing running until it just breaks down.  I really don't want to get into a project of replacing the pan on a unit that old.

I wondered if anyone had some ideas or a similar situation that can offer advice. 
Main Message Board / Blue Sea Systems digital voltmeter
October 09, 2012, 04:24:13 AM
I installed a digital voltmeter on the panel.  When it's not sensing any voltage, the meter reads .03 volts.  Called Blue Sea Systems tech service, but they couldn't give me a good answer why.  Interesting to note, saw some boats at the boat show with the same unit, and those meters were also reading .03 volts.  What is the electrical explanation for this?  Also, I'm thinking if I want to know the true voltage of the battery, I would have to subract this factor out?  I would figure the meter should read 00 when no voltage is being metered.....
I've used 4 golf cart batteries as my house bank for the past few years with much success.  I just had a thought that maybe it would be a good idea to rearrange them so the current flow doesn't remain the same.  Kind of like rotating the tires on your car for even wear.  My thought is if current flows through the batteries in the same pattern time after time, the battery in a certain position would degrade at a different rate than the others.  Maybe moving them around will "exercise" them and keep them at full potential.  Any EE's out there with any thoughts if this really matters would be helpful  :clap


[added to wiring to title - Stu]
Main Message Board / No nuts on Stern Rail bolts
July 08, 2012, 12:34:09 PM
Hi all...
I happened to notice that there are NO Nuts on the bolts that attach the stern rail to the transom.  At every verticle rail attachment point, there are bolts that come through the fiberglass, only protrude through about 1/4", and there are no nuts with lock washers attached.  The bolts used aren't even long enough to have bolts and washers on them in the first place.  Can those of you with MkII's look into the aft lazarettes and see if yours are like that too.  I plan on calling Catalina to see if this was on purpose, or did someone forget to finish the stern rail installation job when the boat was built.  I have no leaks....which is good...wish I noticed this when I bought the boat so the dealer would have fixed this.  Curious if other boats are like this too. May have been a widespread production hull is 1477.

Main Message Board / Tack Line into cockpit
May 17, 2012, 04:57:01 AM
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for ways on how to secure the Asym. Spinnaker tack line in the cockpit.  I plan to have the sheetblocks attached to the stern cleats.  So leading the tack line back to one of those might end up having too much on either one of those cleats.  My thought is I can run the line outside the stanchions and around the midship cleat that I have on the outer track.  That might help the tack line lead back into the cockpit.  However once in the cockpit, I'm trying to think how best to secure it.  Any ideas would be appreciated.
Main Message Board / Spinnaker sheet blocks
March 26, 2012, 05:19:09 AM
In the latest Mainsheet tech section, I saw some pictures of spinnaker blocks mounted on the stern cleats.  What caught my eye was the fact that these had beckets with a bungee line attached running to the stern rail, thus suspending the block up.  I'm in the process of getting some Garhauer sheet blocks and don't know if I should get the ones with a becket or not for suspending the lazy block with a bungee cord so it doesn't flop around when the sheet is slack. Has anyone found a floppy block to be a problem?  The other option is just to run a bungee cord through the center hole in the block (without the becket), but not sure if the cord would have chafe from the turning block when the sheet is used.

Would be interested to hear what others have done with spinnaker sheet blocks.  Pictures please, if available.
Message for Peggie....In the recent Practical Sailor, two individuals wrote in about some products they use and would like PS to evaluate.  One is called BacTankT3 and the other is called Happy Campers (this one advertised as an RV product).  Do you have any experience with these two products?

Main Message Board / mooring balls on back creek?
February 28, 2012, 06:11:23 PM
Does anyone know if there are mooring balls on Back Creek in Eastport?  Looking at putting my daughter in Kidship Sailing this summer and wanted to moor on back creek for a few days while she takes lessons.

Main Message Board / UK Sails - Annapolis
February 01, 2012, 04:54:27 PM
Has anyone purchased a sail from UK Sails in Annapolis (Eastport)?  Thinking about an Asym from them and would like to know if anyone had any good or bad experiences.  We visited the loft last weekend and they seem very knowledgeable and have a nice set up.

Hi All,
I'm interested in getting an Asym Spinnaker and have been gathering information.  Went to local sail loft and talked about what was needed at the mast head.  I was told that the extra halyard on my mast (does anyone has a picture of the top of the mast to confirm) is really a spare jib halyard and not a spinnaker halyard, because it's not outside the foretriangle, above the headstay.  What I was told is I need to cut into the mast, about 3-5 feet down from the top and install an exit plate.  Run this halyard through it and up through a block on the bail (again, not really sure I have a bail up there).  This will place it above the existing jib halyard, above the headstay.  The loft said don't let anyone tell you to just run it up from the sheeve to a block on the bail because things can get messy up there if you do.

Also, is using a sock really helpful, or are they overrated?  The ATN sock is not that cheap and I'm researching that cost compared to those small furlers, wondering if a furler is worth the upcharge.  My local loft says a sock is good enough and is talking me out of a furler.

Any info would be appreciated.

Main Message Board / ST60 Wind Vane binding
October 11, 2011, 01:15:51 PM
Hi all..
This is something that has progressively become worse over the years.  Here's the situation.  At times, in light air, I can be sailing close hauled with wind definitely apparent on my face, but the wind vane ontop of the mast would stop spinning.  Then it would start up again.  Went up the mast this past weekend and pulled it off.  I can't notice any binding when you try to spin it by hand.  The cups do wobble a bit and move in and out, but I can't feel any hard spot that might hang up.

Before I send it to Raymarine, would like to know if anyone has any insight with this situation.
Main Message Board / Animated knot site
March 23, 2011, 10:08:58 AM
Thought this was cool.  Have fun!

Main Message Board / Bilge Water: Salt or Fresh
January 24, 2011, 09:44:23 AM
I saw this tidbit of information in the latest USPS Ensign.  Rather than dipping your finger into the bilge water and tasting it, you can spit into the water and if your saliva disperses quickly, it's salt. If it hangs together, it's fresh.
Main Message Board / Mainesail: Gray Butyl Tape
December 23, 2010, 11:38:20 AM
I looked through your Compass Marine site, on the how-to articles.  You re-bed hardware with what looks like the stuff I've seen in autoparts stores used to mount tailight lenses and such?  You seem to reco this over caulk?

Main Message Board / Doyle UPS sail
November 11, 2010, 06:10:23 PM
Has anyone looked into this or better yet, have one to give feedback on it's performance.  It is very interesting that it has a very large usable wind range.  I wonder how real that actually is because when something can do many things, it ends up being not that great for any of them.  It's that old saying, if it's too good to be true, it isn't.  I hope this does work as well as it claims because it would be a great sail option.


Hi All,
Just winterized the engine and changed the ATF.  I drop the ATF fluid by putting a large aluminum baking pan under the engine to capture it after removing the bottom plug with a 17mm wrench (I've mentioned this method of changing the ATF in other posts).  Usually, the color of the used ATF comes out opaque dark red (as opposed to the clear red when new).  This time, I noticed a 'pearlescent' sheen to the fluid, that looks like it could have fine bits of metal shavings.  My engine has 900 hours and I haven't noticed any issue with the transmission or gears during use.  Has anyone found this to be a normal occurrence with higher engine hours?  What is the consensus for when is the proper time to rebuild the transmission?  Is rebuilding something that's done as part of the maintenance schedule at a certain engine hour amount?

Thanks!!  :D
Main Message Board / Rope clutch on furling line
November 18, 2009, 07:21:39 AM
Hi folks..One improvement that I've seen on some boats is to put a rope clutch to contain the furling line, instead of a cleat.  I've seen this on several boats at the recent show and figure it would be much easer to capture the line as you try to reef the genny.  Right now, I have a ratchet block clamped on the stern rail that helps hold the line as I reef by taking some force off.  I would like to have a rope clutch, instead of the cleat, so I can easily just flip the lever down to hole the line.  If anyone has added this to their furling line, I would be interested how and where you mounted it and what kind of clutch did you use.  I've seen the Spinlock device use on the other boats I've seen which sells for around $70-80.

Main Message Board / Combine House bank
October 26, 2009, 04:40:38 AM
I recently installed 4 golf cart batteries.  They are still wired separately (i.e. Battery #1 and Battery #2, like the original 4D's).  I'm installing a 'reserve' battery on position #2, so I now want to combine the golf carts into one whole house bank.  I don't know if either way matters, but I figured I would thow this out if anyone sees any difference (pro or con) with either way.  I can combine them by connecting the two positive poles with a short red wire, then lead one existing red wire to the #1 stud on the battery switch. I then could remove the second existing wire from the run and use that for the reserve battery leading to the #2 stud.  The other way would be to simply take the wires, at the battery switch, and connect them both to the #1 stud on the battery switch,  This would have both batteries connected 'at the battery switch stud' in lieu of them connected at the batteries themselves, and would have (2) wires leading to the battery switch insead of just one.  Any thoughts?

Main Message Board / Tachometer and engine RPM's
August 25, 2009, 07:00:06 PM
Have a question about checking the tachometer with what the engine rpm's actually are.  Is the way to check tachometer calibration is to get another handheld tach and jump the wires in the back of the existing tach and compare what the two are reading?  If the panel tach is off vs. the handheld, then you know how much to adjust it.  Or is it using a light on the spinning pulley with a piece of reflective tape?  I would think the reflective tape is telling you timing (it's advance, etc) and not how many revolutions the engine is running at a particular throttle setting.

Main Message Board / Extending wires
April 15, 2009, 12:56:18 PM
Can anyone think of a reason not to extend wires, if done properly with butt connectors and shrink tubing?  I'm talking about extending something a couple feet or so.  I know the length of the run (both ways) dictates the gauge and if the added length still falls within the recommended gauge, I would think it's ok.  Any thoughts?

Main Message Board / Power Post Plus
April 06, 2009, 02:16:18 PM
I have multiple negative leads and would like to use one of these on the Negative ground as part of my starting battery installation.  I'm installing golf cart batteries and this looks like it would help on the negative side, as well as the positive.  This Power Post Plus from WM looks like it's mainly for positive connections, hence the red boot, but couldn't it be used for making the negative connections too.

In reviewing my supplies for my upcoming commissioning, I noticed that I have a can of Pettit Transducer Paint, and a can of Zinc Barnacle Barrier Coat.  Same product code number on the cans (1792 I think it was).  I think this is the same stuff, only under a different name.  Anybody notice that?
Main Message Board / Starting Battery Location
April 01, 2009, 11:56:12 AM
Hi folks..
Thinking about areas where the starting battery would go (group 24).  The area that looks to be ideal would be in the hanging locker, just forward of the Nav Table.  It's vented (louvre doors), easy to check the battery, and wiring modifications would be easy. A GP 24 battery box fits perfectly.  I have sliding shelves installed in that area, and the box would take up the wasted space near the floor.  One issue I thought of is the fact that the area is connected to the hull interior that houses the electrical panel.  I'm thinking about the breakers being sources of ignition from the battery gasses that could migrate throughout that area. 

Any thoughts about this?

Hi folks,
Stopped by Sam's Club (not a member, but wanted to check out batteries), looking for Trojan batteries.  Looks like they don't carry them, and the brand they have is Engergizer.  Every size they have is the Engergizer brand.  Sticker says 'Dist. by Johnson Controls Battery Group'.  The 6vold golf cart battery is model EGC2.  Reserve capacity says '105' (could this be a Trojan 105 twin?).  Amp hours is 220.  Cost is $71.28.  Certainly not the $40 something price as years past, but still not bad.  Wondering if anyone has information on these batteries.

Main Message Board / AM/FM radio wiring harness
March 01, 2009, 06:37:53 PM
Hello everyone,
My right cockpit speaker was out and I thought maybe the speaker has gone bad (Polyplaner).  I tested it out and it turns out the speaker is fine and I traced the problem to the wiring harness that snaps into the back of the radio.  Seems that if the harness is wiggled, it will make that speaker go out.  Nothing else is affected.  It's not that I can move it a certain way to make it happen, it knocks out that speaker as a matter of chance.  I can move the harness around and nothing can happen.  Any ideas to sure up things so it won't happen would be appreciated.

Main Message Board / Battery cells leaking fluid
July 22, 2008, 02:53:40 PM
Hello All,
I have (2) 4D's, bought from BJ's at under $100 each.  Purchased them in 2005.  On one of them, I notice battery acid coming out of 3 of the cells, seen by the small pool around the ports.  I have the caps hand tight and up until now, I never saw anything venting out.  Upon inspection of the cells, the water is slightly lower than usual, but still well above the plates.  Does this mean that battery might be calling it quits?  A short in the plates?

Hi All,
Have a leak that I can't seem to trace down.  It's the Lewmar portlight, starboard side, forward most in salon (middle one if looking at the deck from outside).  I found the leak because the forward most screw that holds the teak trim that runs along the interior showed water stains on the wood.  When I took the screw out, water came dripping out.  I put a sprig of paper toweling inside the hole, the paper came out wet.  Also, when the plastic trim is removed, the core seems like it has gotten wet because of it's slight amber color (other portlights show the core to still have mfg dust and are lighter in color).  I've sprayed the hatch with water while looking at the inside of the hatch with no success.  The gaskets don't leak.  The little grey rubber gasket that is in the slit where the extrusion frame comes together at the bottom does not leak (called Lewmar and they said to look at that).  I can't see any evidence of water coming in when I do my splash test.

I think if the bedding was the problem, I would see water seeping through.

Main Message Board / Autopilot Drivestop error
August 06, 2007, 05:08:47 AM
Hi All,
Have an issue with my Autopilot (Raymarine ST4000 plus).  This weekend, while it was in Auto mode, the unit beeped and the words 'Drivestop' appeared on the screen.  Put it in standby and the message disappeared.  Now, when in Auto mode, and you push the buttons to turn the boat to port, it seems to work and the wheel moves.  However, when set to move the boat to starboard, nothing happens, the drive motor does not turn the wheel to the right.  Has anyone experienced this and if so, what did you find out?