Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - John Fogelgren

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Impeller replacement
May 21, 2013, 05:11:13 PM
Can you pull the shaft with the impeller on the Sherwood as well?
#2
I would like to inspect my rudder's internal moisture, but have been unable to remove the aluminum cap from the stainless steel rudder post.  I have tried heat, lubricant, and muscle, but have been unsuccessful.  Any ideas?
#3
Thanks folks for your info; I just finished the job:
    After removing the side access door and frame and disconnecting all the hoses and wires I removed the top four screws from the old round tank and took the top off  then cut the cover from the tank with tin-snips and striped the fiberglass wool rather than remove the front drawer frame to remove the tank. Then it was easy to remove.  The pad under the old tank was a round piece of plywood(about 3/4" thick) glassed directly to the floor; it was smaller than the new square tank footprint and mounting brackets. I cut off approxmately 1/2 inches from the end of each mounting bracket to shorten the Tank footprint and made a mounting board of 1/2 " plywood just long enough to mount the new heater on and countersank the boltheads in the plywood from the bottom and epoxyed them in place as there was no way to hold the bolts from turning on the bottom after the board would be mounted. I shortened the brackets because there is very little more length for the new seward tank because of the mount on the starboard side for the waterpump and manifold stand.
I cleaned off the old pad and then screwed and glued the new one down to it as far to starboard as possible so as to gain access to the portside for all the hoses and electrical connections.It was then easy to slip in the new tank and bolt it down to the 1/2 inch mount.  I had absolutely no problem at all replacing the heater hoses-just slid them through the holes in the engine compartment and pushed them until they came out under the galley and grabbed them.  I used 8 feet of hose, but didn't need all of it.
I used  a Seward 6 gallon tank(model F600) with all hoses on the same side as the electical connections.  It still did not leave a lot of extra room by the cabinet to hook up everything and for general access to the plumbing.
#4
Main Message Board / galley faucet washers
May 07, 2010, 02:20:13 PM
Our galley sink faucet (Grohe) drips.  Does anyone know how to replace the washers or cartridges?  The website speaks only of replacing the whole faucet.
#5
Thanks for all your responses.  I'm ready to tackle it.
John
#6
Our new square water heater has fastening feet on each end, which do not fit on the round wood pad.  What should we do?

John Fogelgren
hull 718
#7
Main Message Board / "Hidden" screw in aft bulkhead
July 30, 2006, 11:05:30 AM
After removing all the other screws in the aft bulkhead, we ran a bare hacksaw blade around the edge until we located the hidden screw.  Then we sawed through the screw with the blade, as it's not needed anyway.  Very easy and no fiberglass repair needed. 
We also added some wooden spacers between the bulkhead and the rear water tank to keep the tank from shifting about.
#8
Main Message Board / Starting engine on battery #1
June 16, 2006, 09:51:19 AM
Our boat starts on batteries when in "all" position, but will not start when on #1 position alone.  It only clicks.  We do not have gulf cart batteries, but they are all new and show full charge.  Both banks share a common ground.  #1 alone will run the other pumps, but we were saving #1 for starting in case the other two lost charge.  Shouldn't the engine start on #1 alone?
Excuse my lingo - this is Greek.  I'm John's wife, Honey.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Bottom Paint
April 14, 2006, 04:35:19 PM
For "Hard Bottom Paint", what size  roller do you suggest - 1/4" or 3/8" nap?  And do you dilute your paint with paint thinner?
#10
Main Message Board / Re: bitter end of anchor line
March 17, 2006, 09:00:30 AM
Thanks Tom and Ron,
         Attaching the rode to the bottom of the Large cleat will work to give it strength and although it will require a hole through the locker it still seems better than any else I have thought of so far.  By the way Ron--I put on a CR-1 anchor roller last week, using your tech note, and it went on well.  Thanks for doing the note and the follow-up about its continuing success. 

John


   
#11
Main Message Board / bitter end of anchor line
March 14, 2006, 02:32:21 PM
I've unsuccessfully searched the website for the best location in the anchor locker to attach the bitter end.  We do not have a windlass.  What do you suggest?  I noticed Mike Smith said he attached his to the fixture in the locker, but where?