Messages

Holger,my mast thickness measures between 4.75 mm and 5.08 mm. The front of the mast is a little thicker,
 reading 5.01 mm to 5.08 mm. The sides and back by the sail slot go down to 4.75 mm.
 This is my 1988 mast. I don't know if catalina made any change in masts between 1988 and 1992. Stu or Ron
may know more about that type of a change. Hope this is a helpful start to answer your question.
    Phil

I looked up stainless steel kayak j hooks. They are available, and should last longer than non stainless hooks.
  Just a thought

Don't forget, the early boats have a port list. A little more weight on starboard could help overcome the port list.
Just another thing to think about as you balance the boat. Good luck with the project.
  Phil

Welcome aboard Andy:
This is a great place. Best help in a hurry. Enjoy your new boat, the adventure begins
    Phil

 Kevin, I am out on Catawba at Catawba Moorings. I would be very happy to share the expense of the removal tool with you. We are only 3 or 4 miles apart and this would save some time for moving the tool around this spring.
 I look forward to hearing from you.
    Phil Spicer

 Removed the muffler this winter on our 1988 c34. The inlet hose would not come off so I started cutting it with an oscillator tool. The  vibration broke the tube loose before I cut through. To remove the outlet hose I used large channel locks to GENTLY grab and twist the hose and break it loose. Since the engine is out so I could get the transmission rebuilt, all the wires and hoses were loose and the muffler slid inboard without much trouble. (Pulled it from the aft cabin) If the wires and hoses had been connected to the engine there wouldn't have been enough slack to clear the inlet/outlet tubes on the top of the muffler. Things are tight back there.
 Since some have had the fiberglass inlet tube break, and I have everything apart, I pulled the muffler to add a fillet to the inlet & outlet tubes. Now it's time to get a warm day and start putting everything back together.
 Ron, thank you for your knowledge, yes, the engine had to be pulled to remove the transmission. With the engine in the galley everything came apart quick and easy.

 1) Early boats have no room to pull the transmission back from the engine. (It might work if you cut a lot of fiberglass)
 2) The transmission is bolted to the bellhousing from the inside. A lot to undo on this job.
 

Logged on the other morning, business as usual. Logged on later in the day and WOW.
What a change. Nice job. Thank you for all your hard work.

  That's the plan.

 Checked the fit of the new damper plate and it fit fine. The specs say 122mm. It it is just a little under that,
121.42+ or- .01. The flywheel plate measures 121.60,+ or -.02. So far, all is good. Waiting for the Vetus mounts.

 I also looked at a wind instrument at the Annapolis Show this year. Wife said we should look at getting new instruments and she would like to add a wind instrument. As I shopped I got the same reaction from sales. "Should I go wireless" The answer was, ahhhhh...
well.....ahhhh. Then they said for our boat the recommendation was to go wired, and I did.
After 35 years the old knot and depth are still working fine, but when the wife says get new, who can argue with that. Did a lot of damage at the show this year, instruments, head, jib, dodger, not to mention the transmission work. Christmas came early.
I don't have any experience with a wind instrument or wireless connection. This is just my experience this fall.
      Phil
   

 Thank you Ken. Kurt sent that to me last week but no torque specs.I'll follow your advice plus the lock title.
The numbers on the old plate are 1866050002. Also has a stamping of F&S. Another number is 14, printed above
10. 86. There is a triangle above and before the 8.
New plate number is. C1S01220601A1, VULKAN.
Nothing is installed so I hope all goes well when I put it in gear.

 Ken, the transmission shop used Mack Boring for the transmission kit. For the damper plate they just went on line and put in the numbers on my damper plate. The new one slides on like the old one. Looks good.
Can you help with torque for the damper plate to the flywheel and flywheel to the engine? I can not locate my transmission book.
Thank you.

 Ken, I'll try to get that information for you soon.

 My thanks to all for your words of wisdom.
Gregory: I have done all but the rear oil seal. Will check into that.
Ron, Ken: I'll order Vetus 75 mounts this week. Appreciate your information.
Took the transmission to a local shop and was told parts would be no problem. Shop installed a complete rebuild kit and supplied a new (not CD) damper plate. Have a little wall section to replace on port side engine compartment, then will be looking for a warm day to put things back together.
Thank you for your guidance and advice
       Phil

 Our motor is sitting in the galley so I could pull the transmission. I plan to put in new motor mounts and wondered why some have changed to vetus . Also some used 50's , some used 75's and some have mixed them. If using 50's and 75's, which were put in front and back and why? I' m looking for information so I can make a good decision.