Messages

Really appreciate the input. Thank you.

I like the idea of taking it with me to the hardware store to make sure it's the same length.

Thanks again!

Hello brain trust. I know this topic has been addressed several times, but I haven't seen my particular issue mentioned. Looks like the temperature/pressure relief valve is stuck open. It's rather high up on the tank and it's been leaking now for three or four days, so I would think that the water level would be below the outlet. But there is a steady trickle of water from the hose into the bilge. I have water pressure turned off as well as the water heater. Secondly, have any of you replaced this valve before?

So I got myself a new Campbell Sailor prop (love it).  The diver I hired to install it has been trying to drill a hole through the shaft in order to put a pin through it to secure the second nut. He told me this is SOP. The problem is is he hasn't been able to drill a hole through the shaft. He's broken multiple bits and supposedly has the correct gear. He's been in consultation with our local prop shop. It just seems odd. He thinks the shaft is made out of something other than stainless. I have no idea. Figured I'd check in with the brain trust

And...we have a hole!  Took a suggestion from another board and used a Dremel side cutting tool. Just long enough. Finished it with a Dremel drum sander. Super easy. Not perfect, but close enough. Now to seal it and put this project to bed

Thanks for all your suggestions. This is a great group!


Steve

Long title, I know. I'm replacing my windlass. And I have to make a little semi-circular cut out on the edge of the existing hole for the windlass to accommodate the chain counter sensor. Any ideas on the best way to do that?

Hey Folks,

I'm replacing my ground tackle with 100 feet of 5/16 HT G 43 and 200 feet of 3 strand.  Wondering if anybody with an MK II has a similar set up and if it all fits in the anchor locker with enough space for the windlass to drop the chain in. Maxwell suggests 8 inches from the bottom of the windlass chain pipe to the top of the chain cone.

Thanks

Steve

Thanks Noah and Rob.  Both comments very helpful.  Interesting that both of you have a horizontal windlass, while mine is vertical.

Good call, Rob - no solenoid, wired directly.  When you say you epoxied a piece of plywood behind the forward bulkhead, do you mean on the fiberglass or on the wood bulkhead?

Noah, looks like you attached your solenoid to the fiberglass itself, as well as some wood to the fiberglass for your terminal blocks. Can you guys tell me how you did that. I have no experience with this kind of thing.


Lastly, how do you like your wireless remote, Noah. I'm thinking of using the same one.

Hello All,

I'm about to replace my Maxwell VW 800 windlass with an RC8-8. While preparing for the installation, I can't seem to find the solenoid.  The original is a one way set-up (up only). Anyone with the same set up have a clue as to where they may have put the solenoid?

Thanks!

Steve

Hey MD78,

I'm a new owner to a boat that was previously part of this fleet.  Was also disappointed to see that the fleet appears to be defunct.  Perhaps your post will raise the sails of the other C34's in the Bay.

Steve

Thanks everyone for your feedback.  And, yes, my main is loose footed.  So I will have the outhaul run back to the cockpit. 

Steve

Wondering what the consensus is: to have the outhaul line extend to the cockpit or cleat it on the boom?

My outhaul line came back to a clutch on top of the cabin. However, I just put a second reef in my main, and used the block and clutch that were used for the outhaul for the second reef. I was going to have my rigging guy put on a new block and clutch on the cabin top, but he suggested just cleating it on the boom. I like the idea of it coming back to the cockpit, especially since I plan on single handing along the coast.  Just wondering what y'all think??

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What you should also do is to measure through the clew to a point perpendicular to the luff.

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Good stuff, Stu.  Thank you.  I always used the clew to mid luff line as my start point.  Looking forward to checking out how the "luff perpendicular" differs

Yes, I believe the double spreader rig is unusual. I don't know for certain that the height is the same as original. The previous owner told me that he had the new sail cut to the original sail's dimensions, and the luff fits perfectly. So based on that, I'm assuming it's close to the same height.

Apparently the double spreader mast has thinner walls and therefore is not as heavy.    Consequently, less heeling moment from the weight of the mast. The previous owner did a lot of racing.

Thanks for your responses, Jim and Alex. And thanks too Jim for the tip about the signature.

Interesting thought about the sail not being cut for the boat. However,  I think the problem is more "operator error". Boom, mast, and sails were all new in 2021.  Previous owner kinked the mast somehow and had insurance replace the rig and sails.  Lucky me!  Seldon double spreader rig with Quantum sails.

I was out yesterday and took a closer look at the jib and cars.  Using a line from the sheet, through the clew to mid luff as a start point, I have more space to go in either direction with the cars than I realized. I've only sailed her a couple of times, and think that I just hadn't analyzed it closely enough.

Thanks for your welcome to the board.  I'm sure I'll have lots of newbie questions.  She sure is a delight to sail!!!!!