Messages

It sound like a near miss. Had the same issue on my 27. The oil pressure warning has a diode in the circuit, and a pulse from the lighting bolt about 15 feet from the boat fried it and other electronics on the boat.
Good luck

Could this be the pin which locks the stove from swinging?

My 1990 MK 1 has a PAR 37202 pump for the shower drain. It has stopped working, motor still runs but no suction. It is located under the head sink and the only access is thru the door by the thru hull for the toilet, sink drain, and raw water inlet.
Access is very limited. I am wondering if anyone had removed this pump, and have an suggestions on how to do it. I have thought of removing the small holder for the t-paper and am wondering if that provides any better access.

Looked at past posts and did not find many discussions on various materials to use to finish the floor boards. I've used varnish in the past and was not happy with the results. I am thinking of using home wooden floor polyurethane. Has anyone tried this at what were their results?

A sad day. I have talked with Frank several times during my ownership of Cat 22, Cat 27, and currently a Cat 34. Was a great guy to talk sailboats with.

My condolences to his family and the Catalina Boat Company.

On my MK1 I have a connector which connects  the hose to the bilge exit, a approx 1.25 in. "wound" surface hose to a 1 inch smooth outlet on the bilge pump. Nobody seems to make this connector any more. All the new bilge hose has a smooth section every foot or so. I am wonder if others have had to replace this connector and what did they use.
Thanks Steve

Yes you can, but you will lose some of the oil which is inside the filter.
Steve

I have seen these on my 1990 C34. It's just years of VC17 building up. A simple sanding will resolve and you should not see it again in this area for a number of years.

Don't know RT. I feel that unless you are into ultimate racing sails, most sail makers make good sails. I would advise looking at who will provide better service and followup over the coming years. I have seen more differences between makers on this issue then on the performance of their sails.

I was able to replace mine by removing the door and frame of the opening in the front side of the installed water heater. (side with connections and drain valve.

Ron, or anyone else, and recommendations on the synthetic teak and holly flooring?

I doubt anyone will repair it for much less then the cost of a new one. Just to bring it in and have it diagnosed would probably be over $50 then the cost of the part, and the repair work would take you close to $100. Think it is time to look at a new one.

I would be interested in the brand, if it's not a big inconvenience to ask. I have been trying to talk to Plasteak about their product, but having some difficulty with the local supplier.

The floor in my C34 (1990) is starting to delaminate, so I am looking to replace it. (the teak and holly plywood) I know I can buy some new plywood and use that, but I am wondering if any of the synthetic materials might be a better choice. Has anyone used this material and if so what are your thoughts/experiences.

It's the ice cube tray that comes with the A-B refridgerator. Stands vertical in the freezer section.