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What a difference it makes under the sink not to mention all those old nasty pipes are gone. I wanted all this done before my countertops are done.

When I was building houses all the plumbing was copper. Now its Pex and to tell you the truth pretty darn easy. I ran all the pex to the anchor locker and set up the hot and cold manifolds. I was even able to pipe hot and cold to the head. I have the cold manifold connected to the output of the pump.
I think it will take one more weekend and Ill have all the plumbing completed.

Yes I am going to use backing plates on all the stanchions I am also thinking of adding a stainless steel plate to go over the two bolts closest to the outside this is where the plates bend if they are pushed on. I have a metal person that makes things for me.

after reading all the comments I figured all I would have to do is to by a 90 degree elbow and then just screw the hose back on. Well it seems nothing on my boat can be simple. I understand why the vent hose was disconnected and that's because it won't fit with the lid on it. I put a straight edge crossed the opening and there is only 1 inch between the lid and the top of the threaded flange. Does anyone have a picture of the top of their tank??? Does anyone have suggestions on how to vent this tank out with only a 1" gap.

Well I made up my mind. I am going to drill and put in the vents thru the sides. I will cut off the nipple on the station redial the hole and epoxy them shut. Yes I am installing backer plates because people will be people but that is one less opportunity for it to leak. and after all the work I've done I think I would lose it if it leaked there.

This weekend I was able to get a few more small items complete on the boat. I finished the top panel on the head door. This week I found a couple of 1/4 sheets of plywood that are either teak or something that looks exactly like it. After a couple of hours on the table saw and taking the old rotten bulkhead to the table saw I was able to glue the panels together and put the original cap on them and make new bulkheads. One for the nav station and one for the galley. I will have to wait til the countertops are in to put the galley bulk head in. I plan on putting the countertop in first and then sealing it to the hull so if I ever get another leak it will leak on top of the counter and not underneath it.

Last weekend was so hot I didn't work on the boat. this weekend I got a few more things put together. I got new shelves cut and scribed to the old ones, I also installed FRP panels on the door to the head. I also finished up some of the small items that I had left to varnish. I included a picture of what the old shelve looked like. And what the new shelf looks like. I covered the new shelf with white contact paper for inside the cabinet. I think it gives it a clean feeling.

My daughter and son inlaw live in Issaquah the last time I was down there they brought me to port Townsend and I got to see the boat Tally Ho (you tube). Very beautiful place.

I see your in Seattle, My daughter lives in Seattle I am supposed to visit for my granddaughters 1st birthday this summer

7/8s Quartz light weight. The head and nav counter match the weight of the galley. Plus it can't weigh anymore than the waterlogged countertops that were on there.

Stu,
I understand you to say there is (or should be) some kind of sump box under the floor outside the head door.
I've drilled a 4" hole in the sole under the wood floor for access to the shower drain hose and there is no sump on our boat, in fact the only reason I'm replying is I'm pretty sure that since I can barely get my hand into the space there to access the hose clamp I just don't see where a sump would go??? The shower drain itself is glued or glassed in with a 90 degree elbow that is aimed directly aft to where the hose comes out under the sink, then there is a one way valve and then a few feet from that is the pump itself.
I'm just wondering if others have the above described setup, or do they in fact have a sump down there somewhere? 

That is exactly how mine is set up thats how I know the hose is disconnected. I actually like the ideal of the sump as it would give you more time in the shower before the shower pan starts to fill up

Thank you Ron maybe you can clarify some of the other comments. Stu is say there is a sump box that the water would go in and a hose from the sump to the pump. Hearing there is a sump box would lead me to believe that there is sump pit like you might see in a house( not as big). I included a picture of what I think people are saying obviously I can't see under the shower pan, but I can see the pump from the door under the sink.(that how I knew the hose was disconnected. I haven't even tried any of the 12volt system.
I'm beginning to think that maybe the PO disconnected a lot of these systems so the kids wouldn't use them. Why else would they disconnect them.

this weekend it was working on the head. Saturday I spent all day cleaning and sunday I started to reinstall everything.I can't wait for my countertops to be completed

Thanks You Im thinking a power washer might do the trick. It took me hours to get the picture as good as you see. The hose from the shower drain went to the pump it was disconnected I'm assuming they disconnect it for the Winter (not sure) from the pump it goes up to a loop and then to a thru hull.
I think all I have to do is reconnect the hose to the pump

I don't think a lot of people take pictures of their shower drain but I am wondering if anyone has a picture of the shower drain on their 87 catalina. I am cleaning a putting together the head this weekend and have cleaned the drain but not sure if this looks right.I found the hose that comes from the drain it was disconnected from the shower pump.
mine looks rotted and maybe I need to fiberglass something????