Messages

Hi, we are doing a significant refit due to some salt water intrusion, and as part of that we'll be replacing all the wear items on the original steering system and it got me thinking... should I upgrade to a below deck autopilot?

My ST60/EV100 drive is awful.. if there is any swell or chop it is completely worthless, either under sail or motoring. The control and compass I assume are original and the wheel drive is a newer replacement (2022). The screen on the control head is almost unreadable and I actually have no idea where the compass is.

I was similarly disappointed with an all new EV100 system I put on my previous boat, a Hunter 30T.

Is "only works on calm seas and under perfect conditions" just par for the course for wheel drive autopilots? Or have I just had poor experiences?

I am willing to go through the effort to install a below deck if that's the only way to get a reasonably functional autopilot, but if the problem is simply poorly installed or old wheel systems, I'd rather just install an all new EV100.

We live and sail in the upper keys and mostly use the autopilot to steer while raising or dousing sails and to go forward for dolphin watching, etc. Inside the reef, surf conditions are often 2-3ft seas, often confused and a short period.

I'd appreciate hearing your experiences with your wheel autopilot.

Thanks!

Mark, having worked in the marine and industrial engine business for 40 years, a few points regarding the engine and transmission.  Time is of the essence.  Ron is correct, any wiring that was submerged is toast and needs to be replaced. Anything that you leave will cause you endless hours of fault tracing later, (one silver lining is you can rewire the awful Westerbeke warning system and make it reliable). Most likely the starter and alternator will have suffered. If the water entered the engine and it has been left, there will be internal damage that needs to be investigated and repaired.  If the water did not enter the engine I would get it started at the first opportunity to get oil circulating. Get the belt pullies cleaned up so any rust doesn't damage the belts. Make sure all controls operate properly (speed and stop) before starting it. My concern would be the transmission. I expect the salt water will have rusted the drive plate as the housing isn't sealed and water will have entered.  Also, if it was submerged I believe there is a breather on the top that will have allowed water inside. Drain it and see if the fluid is contaminated with water.  If so I would try to look inside with a borescope and look for rust.  In any case I would fill it to the top with transmission fluid. I have seen engines submerged worse than this that were brought back successfully.

Mark, having worked in the marine and industrial engine business for 40 years, a few points regarding the engine and transmission.  Time is of the essence.  Ron is correct, any wiring that was submerged is toast and needs to be replaced. Anything that you leave will cause you endless hours of fault tracing later, (one silver lining is you can rewire the awful Westerbeke warning system and make it reliable). Most likely the starter and alternator will have suffered. If the water entered the engine and it has been left, there will be internal damage that needs to be investigated and repaired.  If the water did not enter the engine I would get it started at the first opportunity to get oil circulating. Get the belt pullies cleaned up so any rust doesn't damage the belts. Make sure all controls operate properly (speed and stop) before starting it. My concern would be the transmission. I expect the salt water will have rusted the drive plate as the housing isn't sealed and water will have entered.  Also, if it was submerged I believe there is a breather on the top that will have allowed water inside. Drain it and see if the fluid is contaminated with water.  If so I would try to look inside with a borescope and look for rust.  In any case I would fill it to the top with transmission fluid. I have seen engines submerged worse than this that were brought back successfully.

Yep, so it looks like they are going to total her. I'll buy her back and do all that you suggested. The good news is my yacht services guy gave her a very thorough fresh water rinse and pumped that out right away, but anything electrical or mechanical (hose clamps,etc) will be replaced. It doesn't appear water got into the engine, but we're going to pull it and clean and paint and replace all wear items. It will be a while before she's seaworthy again.

Guys : When I leave the boat for more than an overnight - I shut OFF all thru hulls!!

Not that difficult to do !!!  A thought

Lesson learned, the hard way.

Mark,

Wow, every boaters nightmare! That must have been one hell of a split hose. What happened to your automatic bilge pump?

That's a great question, and I also have a high water alarm in the bilge. My assumption is it happened at night and once the water got over to the inverter (under starboard settee) the electrical system shorted.

Yikes. We have your (almost) sister boat, Mola Mola, #1488. I don't have any advice, just sorry that you're going through this. Which hose was it? (I'm going to make it a priority to replace that one this year)

When you say "depreciated 80%", was that a rider on your insurance, or is that a standard feature of boat insurance that I haven't had the pleasure of running across yet? The last boat insurance company I had put a rider on the insurance that if the engine was a factor in the claim, then there would be no reimbursement for the engine. It was one of the most bizarre things I've read. I even asked "so if my engine dies and then I end up on the rocks, you will reimburse all damage, except for the engine?" "Yes" "Even if the engine is further damaged by being on the rocks?" "That's correct. if an engine issue is found to have participated in the claim in any way, the engine is not covered" I switched insurance companies because they started attaching riders.

Thanks. They explained that it is 80% because they are "wear items" and they are assumed to be original unless I can prove they were replaced. If I can demonstrate that, they will adjust depreciation accordingly.

I was aware of this, the Hull and structure and total value however are an agreed amount. Living in the keys, the insured loss I was most concerned with was a hurricane. I'll think differently from here on out. And I'll never leave a through Hull open again!

Marken : Jim's Endeviour was in FRESH water. So Take that into consideration.

I'd say that everything that was under water (if salt) is TOAST!!

A few thoughts

Yea that's what I am thinking too... My intent is to remove all wiring, hose clamps, etc that were submerged. I am also thinking the engine needs to come out to have salt residue removed... There is build up in some of the joints/crevices.

 No word from Geico/Boat US on their intent, and they haven't sent an inspector. I have uploaded about 20 photos to the claim though.

Hello all, thanks to a split raw water hose and an open seacock, our C34MKii needs some serious love. We are insured with Geico/Boat US and we have submitted a bunch of pics but haven't heard anything back other than they have received the claim and that sails, engine, fabric and running gear will be depreciated 80% unless we can prove it's not original. She's a 2000 hull #1483, and we don't know for sure how long she was partially submerged, but we know it was at least a few days.

Here is what I'm thinking about - how much can I ask them to include in the claim? The engine wasn't completely submerged but water got about halfway up. In the photos below you can see that the engine has salt buildup all over, I am thinking it need to come out to be properly cleaned. Same with motor mounts, etc. I also feel that anything electrical or that moves (seacocks, etc) should be replaced. The cabin cushions were floating and smell bad already, those should be replaced. All submerged pumps (macerator, fresh water, shower drain, etc) should be replaced. Water heater, inverter and house bank are toast.

But what about belts and hoses? Wiring that was sumberged? Motor mounts? Should they refinish all the doors and hatches?

We welcome feedback from someone who had been through something similar.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/Df1gkzVhonQxDH537

Thanks, as you all can see I have a couple of "extra" holes which makes me worry someone stripped a bolt hole and moved the ladder back one hole. I just sealed it up with 4200 for now, was afraid of opening a can of works I couldn't close. I'll circle back to it.

Thanks. I am chasing rust stains on the stern and I believe it's coming from the ladder rivets and possible mounts. I wanted to pull the mounts to clean them and the bolts and seal with butyl tape.

Then I noticed I have an extra bolt hole, like the mount had been moved back or something. So I filled it and sealed around the mount with 4200 instead. Next time I have the back opened up I'll investigate further.

Code Select Expand

26

Hi everyone, anyone pull their ladder mounts off? Is there a backing plate molded in with threads or is there nuts under there?

Thanks

Mark

Hi all, I have a 2000 M35B and what I assume the be the original alternator is only putting out 12.6V so it's time for an upgrade.

My electrical system is a dedicated and isolated AGM start battery in the closet aft of the chart table that is charged by the alternator (and an aux 110V smart charger on shore power), a 30A Victron DC/DC that when the start batt is full feeds the bus that's connected to my 300AH of LifPo house bank. I also have 150 W of solar that feeds the house bus and a Renogy 2000W inverter/charger that manages shore power and connects to the house bus.

I decided to go with the L/N 110-603 90a alternator even though my peak load is only about 45A (30A for the DC/DC and 15A for house loads if fridge is running and tablets charging, etc), so I have some headroom on the alternator. I'll stay with the internal regulator for now. I am happy for feedback on this plan.

I have done a BUNCH of reading on the site but still have a few questions:
1) Will I need to replace my pulley?
2) What's the best way to get around the water hose? And will I need to bleed the cooling system after?
3) What's the best way to test for belt alignment?
4) If I do need to adjust alignment, is there a better way to do it that just washers as shims?

It seems I have a lot of belt dust on the engine, and the belt looks a little crooked to me (pics below).

Thanks!!

Mark

Thank all, ended up with the Dymo 360 and so far so good.

Looks great, did you have it custom built?

Hi all, we are looking for a label maker to use in and on the boat and on the dock. Anyone have one they really like?

Sorry to bring back up an old thread, but I have the same year boat and I am looking for my isolator as well. It is not visible to me, would it be in the breaker enclosure? Should we be able to see the isolator in the picture above?

Thanks!!