Messages

I found that three of my shut offs needed replaced on my 1994 model because the metal screw that held the handle on rusted/ disintegrated. They were Forspar thru hulls. I have always greased and exercised the shut offs. But there is no way to get to metal screw to check it.

I have been using this alternative to ice for about the last 5 years.
These are sheets which you put in your freezer at home and then into your cooler. No messy water to clean up or leak. When I get to the boat I fold the sheets and put them into the evaporator next to the ice cube trays and they refreeze for the trip back home. Simple and clean and no mess. The only bad thing about them is that you can't put them in your glass with your favorite cocktail.
I just threw out my first set of sheets and they lasted for at least 5 seasons.





http://www.techniiceamerica.com/

While getting things ready for the spring launch I noticed that my automatic float switch for the bilge pump stayed on after the switch was returned to the normal (down) position. I cleaned under the part that floats and checked the switch a couple more times and it seemed okay. Besides it was getting close to launch time.
This week end when I was entering the boat I thought that I heard something running. I lifted the floor boards and sure enough there was the trusty bilge pump running. I touched the pump and it was rather warm if not hot. We have had numerous rain storms this week and enough water had entered through the mast to activated the switch. Unfortunately it did not shut off.
I added more water to the bilge and the pump removed it with no problem. At least I had not cooked the pump itself as there must have been enough water left in the bilge to keep the pump from burning up.
The pump would stop if the switch was placed on manual off, so there was no short in the switch to keep it running.
I then sponged dry the bilge to make sure there were no leaks anywhere and headed off for a new float switch. With the bilge still being dry the next morning I patched the one screw hole (as the new screw holes would not line up with both of the old holes) and installed the new float switch.
I guess the morale of the story is "if in doubt, change it out."
I am glad that the pump did not get ruined and then some time when I needed it it would not have been serviceable.
I was impressed that Catalina had sealed the connections into a section of  hose filled with sealant. This hose was then secured to the bottom of the floor under the table.  This made for a virtual water tight seal in the event the bilge would completely flood- ensuring the pump would not short out. A good idea.

When I put antifreeze into my engine I just open the door under the sink, remove the hose clamps, lift the intake hose off of the strainer,  and place the end of the hose in a small plastic bowl. I then pour the antifreeze into the bowl as the engine runs. There is no mess, no wrestling with the hose or with a bucket. After I finish running a couple of gallons of antifreeze through the engine, I  remove the strainer and clean it out and leave it beside the intake. Just write yourself a note to install it in the spring.
When I figured out to use a small bowl I was amazed that I had not thought of this before.
I don't think I would recommend using automotive hose but I can not give a real good reason why not. I guess for some silly reason I think the marine hose would hold up longer. But I could be wrong..

I own hull # 1285 and it has a floor in the aft starboard locker. This reduces the amount of usable storage area. I can store a small grill and a bucket of cleaning supplies and a gallon of antifreeze and that is about it.
My refrigerator compressor is also located underneath this floor. I believe that it can be removed as there is molding around the bottom. I did use this locker to access the starboard side of the cockpit which is where I located my autopilot controls. I would try to access the refrigerator from above as it would have to be easier than removing the water tank behind the aft cabin.

Rebed the tubes for the pedestal guard. The water is probably leaking down one of the tubes and behind the rear panel. I discovered this after removing all the panels in the aft cabin. But at least I got a good look at where everything is located back there.

I just replaced my bilge pump last summer.
Naturally the new pump would not fit onto the old base. But I still filled the old holes with epoxy. I just don't like the thought of holes in the bilge. In the fall I did remember to remove the pump from the base when the boat was pulled out. I put the pump up so it would not sit in antifreeze all winter long. I believe that may have hastened the demise of the old pump. The original pump lasted 9 years.
Just a note, while I was in the store deciding on a new pump because the original manufacturer had been bought out, there was an owner from a Catalina 36, same year as mine, who was also looking for a new bilge pump.
His boat had the same size pump as the Catalina 34.
By the way I did seal the new screw holes just out of habit.
I was impressed with the way Catalina sealed the in line fuse and connections so they would not draw moisture or short out in the event the bilge flooded.

Table dimensions for the inside area of the table (not including the raised edge)are as follows on my 1994 model:

26 inches wide
38.5 inches long
44 inches long
The table is not a true rectangle. The reason I know is because the original table is stored at home. The table on the boat ( which is currently buried under snow, ice, and probably a penguin or two)is hinged to make it easier to get in and out of the salon area.

As I was turning the shut off valve for the engine water intake line I noticed it turned VERY easy. Then I noticed that the handle was in my hand. I searched for any advice in changing this shut off valve but didn't find any. Or am I searching under the wrong topic?
Fortunately the valve is in the open postion. The boat is due to be hauled this week end so that should make it easier to change without making a fountain out of the boat.
Has anyone changed this valve?
Thanks for any advise. And yes I did lube the valve in the spring before I launched. Perhaps it had water from the strainer which is right above it and froze last winter?

Four quarts of VC 17 after I figured out to pour the paint on the roller and keep the lid on the can as the evaporation rate is very rapid. This is on a wing keel model. This allows for a second coat on the front of the keel.

During a rain storm I discovered that a small piece of white pipe thread tape will work when wrapped underneath the round black plastic piece which protrudes through the plexiglass. This is only a temporary fix until you replace the o-rings. But it is invisible and beats having rain drip in.
Lewmar by the way, will only sell a complete rebuild kit. The o-rings may take care of the problem with out doing a complete rebuild.

I would take a trip up the mast and look for spiders. Sounds like they may have made a nest-especially since the unit started to work again after the wind increased. While you are up there enjoying the view you can always remove the sending unit if that turns out to be the problem.