Messages

Hey guys,

My CNG regulator assembly which attaches to the tank in the aft stateroom seems to be broken. When I connect a full tank, tighten the nut, and open the tank valve, gas leaks wildly around the nut. Here is a picture of my assembly: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1772335/2013-10-08%2019.11.21.jpg

I think I need to replace the brass regulator in the picture. I'm guessing that it's clogged or something similar. That big brass piece is a "multi-seat" regulator from "Modern Engineering Co.", type P-I-DD. The grey piece is a Fisher Controls regulator type 912.

My first question is, why are there TWO regulators between the tank and the stove? The hose closer to the viewer in the picture is a vent, and the lower hose goes to the stove. Is the brass regulator just for the gauge? If I wanted to replace this entire assembly, can I just use a single regulator?

Here's a replacement assembly from Safgas: http://www.safgas.com/store/Boat-Stove-Parts/CNG-Boat-Gas-Regulator.html
Quite pricey, but similar configuration. Again, how does this work?

Thanks for any help!

-Jackson
San Francisco

We're a 5-person crew on a Catalina 34 sailing to Farallones then Drakes Bay starting this Thursday night, Oct20 to Saturday, Oct22. Any boats wanna join us as a buddy boat?

This is a very smart idea, and the best as far as I'm concerned!:

My preventer runs from one of the main sheet points on the boom through a block on my outside genoa track then back to the cockpit where I tie it off on a cleat.  I can adjust tension as needed so an accidental gybe doesn't put a large shock load on the system and quickly release it if I have to.  I can also safely slow the boom during a planned gybe easier than using the mainsheet.  After a gybe I move the preventer line to a block on the opposite track.

I started today by soaking the bushing in PB blaster... which quickly ate through the cup the liquid was in then spilled into the compartment. Good first try. Then I gave up.

After working with a marine mechanic, he advised me to forget it and just re-install without removing the bushing since it's practically welded to the rod. We were able to seat it "well-enough" and successfully screwed the rod back into the chainplate and lined it up for a re-bed. It's not ideal, but it's ok.

Thanks again for all your help, guys.

I was using that excellent article as my guide as I did the work until I realized that "a tap with a hammer" was absolutely not sufficient to get this bushing off, so I'm stuck.

Thanks for your great tips, Gary and Ken (Gary- I grew up in Falmouth Foreside). I'll try some things out based on your suggestions and let you know how it goes.

Ken- I'm not sure I follow you exactly. The washers and nuts will be above the bushing, forcing it down the shaft to the threads? How could these nuts turn on this part of the shaft where there are no threads? Maybe you're envisioning the attached picture as upside-down. The threads at the end of the shaft are facing downward and outboard. The pipe would fit in between the washer/nut you're tightening and the bushing, right?

I'm rebedding my chain plates for the shrouds. After I remove everything and do all the work to get it ready to be re-inserted in the deck with caulk, I realize that the aluminum bushing around the stainless steel rod under the settee (which distributes some of the load to the hull) will not come off the rod. It's corroded very tightly together. WD-40 and hammering don't work. This causes problems for re-installation as I cannot get the chain plates rebedded with the rod in place since the angled aluminum bushing won't seat properly to the surface above it. Any ideas? (see attached photo in case my helpless explanation confused you).

My god, thinking of using 5200 makes me shudder after this!

Ok, thanks for the advice. Last time, as I said, I only put a fairly thin layer of caulk on the deck side. This time I'll try your technique, and let you know how it goes.

And after all this I may replace the hatch yet again next year with something more robust and offshore-capable...

Thanks Ron.

I tried to just add some 4200 sealant to the corners. It help a little, but still leaks. I will try to redo the whole job and let you know how it goes.

Another question: can I use the same holes that I drilled before for the screws? For the old holes, what should I fill them with? I tried MarineTex epoxy for one of the hole before I put the new hatch on this time.

Thanks, guys. I think it's really only leaking in the corners, so the sides may be properly sealed. I'll try Ken's suggestion then start over like Ted says if it doesn't work.
-jackson

I just replaced the trapezoidal Bomar forward hatch on my '87 C34 with a Bomar replacement from Pompanette. See this thread (I think I got the same one): http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?PHPSESSID=bbe89f2fb81fb6d52481f090caaff786&topic=1675.0

I (thought) I did everything right--remove the old carefully, repair/fill any holes, drill new, clean, seal (used 3M 4200), and secure. The new hatch is now in there and seems solid, but leaks readily in each corner on a hose test. I noticed, as did the above post, that the replacement hatch is just a tiny bit smaller than the old, and leaves larger gaps between the deck fiberglass and the hatch flange in the four corners.

Do I just need another go around with the 4200 sealant, especially in the corners? Will this stand up to heavy spray?

Good to know. Thanks!

Thanks, Ron. I think that aft water tank is full, actually. But we've got 3 anchors and their chain/rode up forward, so maybe that's helping forward list. I'll experiment and try to find those forward drains you mentioned....

For a newbie: what is "MK"?

Great, thanks for the help guys. I sounds like a couple of makeshift drain holes on the bow side of the hatch cover wouldn't actually do any good because it's really the squeegee action when closing the hatch that pulls water in, rather than the way I described (it's been a while since it's rained here too). That is, unless I have a little forward tilt, which would require some holes up forward. I don't think my aft drains are clogged but they could be. I'll test a couple things and report back.

Since there are no drain holes in the forward part of the companionway hatch cover, every time I slide the hatch open when it's raining, a bunch of water pours into the cabin. I see that there are drains in the teak brace in the aft part of the cover. Has anyone tried to solve this by drilling two small holes in the fiberglass on both sides in the front of the cover? Anything I should know before I do it?

Thanks!