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Thanks guys!  We're expecting alot of rain over the next few days and I want to keep things dry. 
Is "tight Fit" a product like a tape or adhesive?  I like that idea.  I'm worried as Stu said... If I drill my hole a bit too law I could be right back where I started. 
BTW... I believe there was work in this area from the previous owner and it appears that they may have tried drilling after patching and thereby causing a leak.  There was silicone in the area but it has finally given up. 
Searching for "Tight Fit"     

I have developed an annoying bit of a leak over time coming from my midships portside scupper.  Water  seems to come through whenever I wash the boat or it rains and seeps into the head and  into the small storage area there.  I have included a couple pics to show where I am talking about.  I had first thought the leak was due to a sanction leak but today I confirmed it is not.  Pau Hana has the toe rails installed to accommodate a midship cleat.  I had also thought the leak was coming from there but again, it is not.  What appears to be happening is at the scupper hole itself that discharges water overboard, water seeps through as it's discharging.  Of course I could plug the hole and prevent any water going through the small hole but then that does not really solve the problem.  I'm looking for solutions to seal up the inside of that weep hole. 
One thought that has come to mind is simply tape it up from the hull side of the hole and then inject epoxy inside the hole itself and let it seep in and set.  I could then re-drill the hole from the hull side.  That's my thought.  Any ideas? 

Following   

Looking to add a Bimini to Pau Hana.  Understand this is an old topic but I want to ask. 
In San Diego, can anyone recommend a good shop?
I would need the tubes and the canvas and install. 
I also have an adjustable back stay.  Can that create problems? 
How much can one expect to pay? 

I think I'm in need of intervention   

Thanks Noah!!  Yep.  Jeff at Deep Cycle is who I'm working with.  Scheduled to have the batteries delivered later this week.  Just got a bit scared since the T105's have been pretty good.  Jeff assured me that the US battery is comparable at least.   

Replacing batteries on Pau Hana.  Has anyone used the US Battery 2200 XC   6V  232AH @ C20?  How do they compare to the Trojan T105 which I have onboard now.   It seems that Trojan has a production shortage at the moment.   

I've used this rule of thumb:
Forward bilge could be fresh water dripping down mast (keel stepped mast)
Center (Large bilge)  Taste the water... if it's fresh, it could be from your water tank.  Or from the mast. 
In the aft bilges if its fresh, it could be the hot water tank.  If it's salt, water could be leaking in from aft either the packing gland or possibly the rudder post. 

I think there has been a similar post as this that defines the bilges and sources of water better than my atempt here.   

Hi Kevin, I've done quite a bit to add storage on my 1987 MK 1. I have several write-ups in the Tech WIKI. They are under the "Storage" category, and under "Projects By Boat/Author" "Della Jean / Jon Windt"

I carry an 85 piece metric/imperial socket set, cordless drill and hammer drill with lots of bits, electrical crimper, stripper tools for small gauge to 1 AWG, multi-meter, infrared temp sensor, v-belt adjuster, spring clip tool, on and on. I glassed in the area under the aft berth small starboard hatch. Tools are stored there. See first photo.

Spares I carry is too many to list them all. Some items are spare alternator in bag with dessicant, fuel pump in bag with dessicant, raw water strainer, foot pump, HX pencil zincs, 3 Racor filters, 1 oil filter, 1 on engine fuel filter, 16 AWG to 1 AWG wire, connectors, sail slides, whipping twine, needles, palm and shears, spare rope, oil, anti-freeze, on and on. Spare parts are mostly stored in removable box under the aft berth, with some under the head sink, and in the port cockpit locker, a few behind the FWD port sette cushion, and large electrical cable, buss bars, and couple breakers in a plastic container with lid under the v-berth stbd side.I have a write-up in the Tech WIKI for these also. See second and third photos.

Thanks Jon.... OMG!!      I'm either not worthy or you are totally OCD    Did you machine and install a rack for spare oil filters?  And the bins under the cushions... did you build a type of storage system?  Curious minds want to know.  thx for the reply!

Doing a bit of a revamp of 'stuff' aboard Pau Hana.  I have over the years collected an array of tools, spare parts etc aboard and they have spread into several nooks and crannies aboard the boat. 
I'm wondering what everybody does for a tool and parts storage solution aboard your boat. 
Do you keep a tool bag?  or box.  What kind of inventory of parts do you keep?  Where do you store everything?  Do you keep tools and and such at home and bring them to the boat? 

For reference I have had a soft tool bag with a bunch of tools and the west marine Shipyard toolkit aboard full time.  I've always kept those stored under the ladder from the cockpit.  A favorite storage area for parts has been in plastic bins stored under the port settee.  and then a bunch of miscellaneous stuff in the V-berth hanging locker... see my problem?   
Curious to hear everyone's approaches to tool/parts storage solutions.   

Tried to find a way to identify the exact piece that was causing my problems at the sheaves.  The picture below is from the C34 1988 owners manual.  The small area highlighted in red indicates the piece that had somehow became bent or was sticking out enough to interfere with the main halyard sheave.   

I Figured I would give a post about the update to the update   
Earlier in the season I had a lot of mast work done to address my lingering sticky halyard issue.  In the end, as one thing led to another, I had the following items completed since I already had riggers at the top of the mast.

•   Windex that was corroded and had fallen off, replaced with a new one.
•   VHF Antenna was showing signs of fatigue and corrosion - replaced with new
•   Raymarine wind vane transducer replaced with new.
•   Mast head tri color and anchor lights changed to LED
•   New spreader boots installed.
•   Tide Strong Track installed

Of course all the mast work was happening to address the sticky halyard.  I had the Tide Strong Track installed, and, while it made a difference when we went out a few times, it still had something else happening... too much friction.  Riggers came again and re-run the halyard inside the mast in case there was a wrap inside.  In the end, the big discovery was the small divider plate between the main halyard sheave and the sheave on the port side.  The riggers were able to trim and adjust this plate to allow it not to come into contact and rubbing with the sheave and the halyard thereby decreasing the drag and the abrasion to the line.  Since that correction was done we have seen the most dramatic improvement in the ease of raising and lowering the main.  I've also taken to using Stu's technique of loosening up one side of the lazy jacks when leaving the marina and, when pointing into the wind to raise the main, I fall off slightly to the side that is loosened up so that the battens do not catch on the lazy jacks.  "Piece O Cake".  The Admiral loves the new set up in the ease of raising and lowering mainsail.   
As things have it... no good deed goes unpunished.  I was having a bit of a leak in my Gor packing gland around the shaft... I need to tighten it up.  But I discovered this leak because I had a small bit of salt water in the bilge under the water heater.  Diligently checking the bilge pump switch, I was dismayed to discover my switch was not working.  Some troubleshooting later and I discovered a corroded connection on the ground line.  (I'm learning that almost all electrical problems on the boat can likely be traced to a faulty ground)  I replaced this wire with new and reconnected using heat shrink double butt connections and some adhesive lined heat shrink tubing... should be good to go for a while now.  I did not want to embark on adjusting the packing gland without a solid feel for reliability on the bilge pump switch in case things went awry and I began to fill the bilge.
Finally... and still running through my list of overdue maintenance projects, I addressed the issue of the small leak at the base of the Jabsco electric marine toilet.  This problem perplexed me since I thought it would be easiest to simply replace the electric conversion kit that the PO had installed.  When I got to WM and looked at the price ($450) I quickly began to research other options.  I never liked the electric marine toilet due to the noise and the drain on the battery.  The Admiral didn't like the entire head assembly because it looked a little "tired".  Sooo... since I am a big believer in the K.I.S.S. concept.  This past weekend our local West Marine had their customer appreciation day and lots of goodies on sale.  Along with an unused gift card from Christmas I walked out the door with a new Jabsco twist n lock marine toilet and accompanying replacement hoses and hardware for about $100.  Installed the new head and it looks spiffy and clean.  Easy to maintain with one less system to worry about (The electric pump) and, I have an open spot on my 12V panel for something else if I want it.   

Cheers!   

Been lots of churn dockside for Pau Hana as of late. 
I've had riggers from Pacific Offshore Rigging come by and inspect the rig and to try and solve my Main Halyard "difficulty in raising" issue.  I also had the riggers come by to replace a Windex that needed replacing.
As with most maintenance issues, one thing led to another and soon I had replaced not only the Windex but also a new VHF antenna, along with my Raymarine wind transducer, and, while they were there some new spreader boots. 
The big change however (Inspired by Noah's recent post on Tide Strong Track) was the addition of installation of the The Strong Track.  It has definitely made raising and lowering the main a bit easier.  Not as easy as I was really hoping for but easier than before.  (I think I may start a separate post on this lingering issue to give more detail.)
Next items in the hopper are replacement of my batteries.  I am going to install 4 Trojan 105s and also a smaller 12v dedicated starting battery (recommendations?)
Finally... following up from a recent past post... I am ordering a Raritan PHII marine toilet to install and replace my Jabsco (Screaming Banshee that wakes the neighbors at night) Electric Head.

Time to Sail!   

The PO of Pau Hana had a Jabsco electric marine head installed.  I have never really liked it since it sounds like a screaming Banshee when it's used.  Today we noticed a bit of leakage at the base of the electric pump  and while I could probably get a repair kit or buy a new one, I think I would like to re-convert this electric head back to a manual head. 
Has anybody done this before?   I'm thinking that I may be able to buy the manual pump and simply replace with the electric and pull back the wires that are running to feed the current pump. 
Or... should I bite the bullet and rep[lace the entire head.  Any thought or ideas greatly appreciated as always.   

Yes, there is a macerator between the holding tank and discharge valve.  In San Diego, it's relatively easy to sail off the coast and get outside the 3 mile zone.  Also as noted, if one takes the sail up the coast to Catalina Island, they require that a green dye pack is placed inside the holding tank. 
When I talked to our dockmaster at the marina, they had considered dye paks but for nearly 200 boats, it was cost prohibitive.