Topics

I am in the process of redoing all of the plumbing in my boat. The automatic bilge pump hose runs up to a vented loop behind the galley sink then down to a T in the sink drain line. In my forum reading it sounds like most people have straight shot out to the transom someplace. Was this arrangement typical for the '87? is there any real concern with this set up or should I add a new outlet someplace else well above the water line?

I know this is a topic that has been beat since I have been reading for days but Im stuck so here it is.

I just put my engine back in the boat and it will not start. Turns over no problem but will not start.

I replaced the fuel filter on the engine and bled the system from the knob on top of its housing.
My knurled knob on the side of the high pressure pump is broken off so that took me a minute to figure out but there was enough nub left that today I was able to grab it with pliers if I took the nut off and unscrew it a bit. I actually backed it off enough that fuel poured out with the primary feed pump running. I caught the fuel in a clear cup about 2oz which has a clear yellow tint to it.

I even went as far as cracking the injectors which I know everyone says isn't needed but I'm desperately frustrated. I have fuel flowing through the system and coming out through the return line at this point but the engine still will not start. It was a chilly day, upper 40's so I sat on the glow plug button for a bit, still no change.

Who has suggestions for what else I can check? I really know very little about diesels.

Muffler drain is open to prevent overflow however the raw water pump also isn't pulling anything in. Does this need to be primed after replacement somehow? Boat is on the hard I just have the intake hose in a 5gal bucket at the moment with a garden hose at the ready to replenish the supply but it hasn't sucked a drop.

I recently removed the old worn cutlass bearing which was a beast to get out even with a strut pro. I believe there were two set screws on the port side and 1 that I missed on the stbd. The bearing and inside of the strut were full of buildup and I gently cleaned it all up with a wire brush. I just went to put the new bearing in place and it slid in by hand with ease. It is far tighter on the shaft than in the strut so without set screws it is just spinning freely in the strut. Are a couple set screws enough to hold this in place and is this normal? I expected it to be much more of a press fit. Measured with calipers and they are the same size. The old set screws were trash so I drilled them out and re taped the holes... hopefully there's enough meat to hold.

Hi, in my slow moving progress on restoring my boat I have the engine out and am working on new mounts. After getting everything cleaned up I noticed some cracking of the engine beds. From what I have read these are typically oak with gelcoat and maybe a little glass over them? Does that sounds right? Just wondering if this cracking is superficial and nothing to worry about or if I need to grind it all out and reglass it.

https://imgur.com/a/bn7z8cE

Hi,

I pulled my prop shaft to clean things up, replace the cutlass bearing, assess the stuffing box, motor mounts are on the list etc. Unfortunately once the stuffing box came out I found the shaft log completely worn away on the bottom. Honestly I'm a bit surprised it didn't sink. Any insight on repair? Can I just bore it out and epoxy a new one in place or do I need to grind all the glass inside the hull back and re build it up with the new one in place?

Hi Everyone,

I just bought a 1987 C-34 yesterday which is a nice upgrade from our '85 C-25 I have had for 6 years. Survey recommended new motor mounts amongst many other things. I have been reading everything I can and  see mixed reviews on the Vetus mounts but K75's seem favorable. A little negativity on the DF-2205-2 which looks like a knockoff of the Westerbeke part at 1/4 of the price. I emailed a rep from Venus about their take on the K50 vs K75 and he recommended the KSTEUN40A which is designed "for the modern 3cyl". It's double the price of the others so just wondering if anyone has tried these, I don't see any previous discussion about them.

Hi Everyone,

I have been searching around the forum and am sure it's been covered 1000 times but I can't find what I'm looking for.

I am in the process of acquiring a '87 C-34 WK. I used to race my C-25 FK and performed well to my PHRF rating. I read quite a bit that the WK doesn't point as high and may slip sideways more etc. Just wondering if I can get an idea from everyone who has more experience on the boat how close hauled you can make it in relation to the apparent wind. In my C-25 I could ride right at 30 deg apparent. Iv read C-34 people stating that they can do 15 deg which means they didn't understand the question and others who say 40 deg is the best they can do.

Especially interested if anyone has any racing experience but I am also happy to grab info from day sailors. I love the boat but this is my biggest holdup as it was what I used my C-25 for 80% of the time. I just have a wife and 2 young children to keep happy and want to do more short term cruising.