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Mechanics from marina said it was getting fuel, but it still won't start. It runs for a few seconds, then shuts off. They called the Seattle Espar guy and he said it was probably the computer board, which is no longer available. When the mechanics first worked on it they got it started after several cycles, it then blew out a thick cloud of smoke and worked. It worked for me the next day...once. Any notions? I'm not willing to put $3-4K in a new heater.

Just got boat back from the yard and when I started it up there was no reading on the tach then or during the five hour trip back. Any suggestions where to begin looking? They didn't do any engine work but did repair oil pressure alarm.

I have another post on here regarding the disintegration of my shaft log, the cause of which remains a mystery to several mechanics and the boat yard. The work for fiberglass repair, shaft log alignment, etc etc will be several thousand dollars. Beings no one can figure out the cause, the Progressive adjuster is dragging his feet on coverage.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to bolster my case?

Three of these and the one for my main halyard is worn out. Rebuild or replace?

Coming off a short cruise, I noticed my bilge pump was coming on regularly. Upon inspection of the thru hulls...nothing. Then I went to the prop shaft and found what's in the photo. Water was running in from the hull, leaking out the shaft rubber boot. Also there was some sort of fibrous material in the boot. I pushed the fibrous pieces back in the boot and cranked down on the clamps and it stemmed the flow, but this isn't how it looked before I left (I had just replaced the clamps on the boot). I haven't been able to find photos inside a Catalina 34 hull without the shaft installed. Obviously before this happened there was something under the aft section of this boot of greater diameter than it is now.

I posted a question in Fleet 5 but I think it may take awhile for someone to see it, so I'm on here. We have MapTech chart books here in the states, but I can't find anything similar that isn't out of print. I use Navionics, but I need paper charts for a backup. Any ideas?  I can print out images of charts from Navionics but prefer regular chart books. Any ideas?

I did find this, last updated 2008: Marine Atlas Vol. 1 Olympia, WA to Malcolm Island, BC,

Fifteen years ago, or so, we ventured from Bremerton, Wa as far up as Montague. This summer (what's left) we'd like to return to the Gulf Islands for a week or two. We are more interested in remote anchorages but occasional access to fuel, ice, and showers. I don't know when to expect a weather change (cooler/more windy). We will be leaving Washington around Aug 24th. Unfortunately, with a 1986 Cat 34, we spent longer working on herplus we got to the PNW later than we planned. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.

I used the stay cool pump kit that was onboard my C34 M25 engine (Oberdorfer pump).

I'm still having problems with my raw water system moving water out the exhaust although it did work again for awhile, one time. Once I shut the engine down and removed the strainer for inspection and cleaning it wouldn't pump water to the impeller the next time I started it. I have made certain my thru hull, strainer, and  inlet hose to pump were clear (yes, Stu I got a mouthful of tasty marina water!) I lubed the impeller and squirted dawn dish soap into the plug hole, but no bueno. I also blew through the hose to the HX and had some resistance, but no blockage. I got a great list of things that may be the problem from KW, but some of those pump and impeller housing issues are difficult to check out without replacing the pump and housing.

The photo is a before I cleaned up the housing cover. I lightly sanded the cover on a flat surface (220 grit) and then used sandpaper to remove the old gasket from the impeller housing frame.

Which leads me to question the impeller/gasket kit I used. I have a second kit also from Stay Cool Pumps.

I don't want to go out until I know exactly what the problem is, and that I can consistently start and run my engine when I need it.

This is not a spring loaded kicker if that matters to this discussion. Is the topping lift redundant if a kicker is already holding the boom, or is the kicker just for keeping the boom down and not designed to withhold weight? If the kicker is installed, do I really need the boom vang? The more videos I watch the more confused I get. My 1970 Ericson 29 was such a simple boat...for a simple sailor.

Signed as:

Confused in deep water.

Background: Engine was working when I brought her to this marina in Fall 2022. Good stream coming out exhaust.
Yesterday I changed out the impeller...old one looked good with no pieces missing, supple.
I cleaned the cover plate and removed the old gasket residue, placed on flat surface and lightly sanded with 220grit...same with impeller housing face.
Replaced with new impeller and new gasket.
Opened the sea cock and started the engine...just a trickle of water coming out exhaust...temp never got over 145 after 10min.
Re-checked impeller: some water came out when I removed the face and gasket...back in with impeller and gasket.
Started engine...same issue.
Tried to check sea strainer but I don't have a wrench to fit that clear plastic housing but there was water in the strainer.
Removed hose going to HX...no water coming out.
I've reviewed every article I can find so now my mind is going in six directions.
Where do I go from here?
Also the exhaust blue hump hose seems to be bulged out (ballooned.)

I have to be careful with this strainer so close to my thru hull and I don't have a wrench to fit it. Replaced the impeller, started it up, and very little water coming out the exhaust. I took the cover and gasket back off to inspect the impeller and there was some water in the impeller housing. I'm starting with my source of sea water and working forward. Everything was working fine when I put her up last Fall. I made sure to snug there cover plate screws up and there wasn't any leakage there or at the heat exchanger. It's time to clean the strainer anyway if I can find the right tool. Somewhere on this site I found a diagram of the raw and fresh water system but it's lost in my memory bank somewhere.

BTW that's the threaded plug for at the top of the impeller housing?

I can't find it, but somewhere I read a thread regarding coolant(s) to avoid in this engine. I'll be replacing mine so I want to get it right.

I've tried liquid wrench on the sheave block and those four pan head bolts on the binnacle with no luck, despite several days of spraying and trying to loosen them. The pan head bolts are extremely long, according to the Edson diagram and I doubt they have ever been removed.

Regarding cable lubricants, I've seen a hodgepodge of videos with home-made concoctions, plus some use KROLL oil. If I can't get the compass housing off the binnacle I'm hoping to find a sway to lubricate the cables with a spray. Doesn't sound ideal but if I mess around with this boat any longer I'm going to lose the summer here in the PNW.

It's hard to get much purchase with this 3inch shift lever. Pictured as a comparison is the throttle lever. Is this 3 inch shift lever standard on the C34s? This could be the issue I'm having with my transmission shifting difficulties.

No issues with smooth shift to neutral or forward (lever is pulling the cable) but it takes a hard pull to get it into reverse. I'm doing this with the engine off. I can shift thru the gears easily from the tranny, even with the linkage attached.

1986 C34 It seems the local divers don't keep zincs in stock so I have to go find mine. I know the shaft takes two one-inch collars, but not sure about the shaft.

I tried the Zodiac sites with no response. My 2014 Zodiac Zoom (10ft w/outboard) has two plugs I can remove on the transom for a suspension eye, but it is an inflatable hull with drop-in aluminum floor, so no place there as an attachment option. Anyone have a similar setup, and what was your solution?

Hat tip to Ron Hill for suggesting I change out these clamps on my stuffing box. Out of four, three came apart when I loosened them. Here is a good link explaining +/- of different hose clamps for marine use: https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/hose-clamps-part-i-design-and-selection/

1986 C34 M25: When I removed the pencil zinc cap, no water drained out of the HX, and no zinc was left attached to the cap. Further inspection revealed it is plugged by what I assume is some part of the zinc. I can carefully drill this out of the way but now I have a problem with loose zinc in the HX. unfortunately the zinc is on the opposite end of the HX opening. Anyone know any spells or incantations that will solve this issue, or do I remove the HX? It was cleaned out about 40hrs ago by a PO. He was very conscientious so I doubt he jammed an oversized zinc into the exchanger...?

Hard to tell what's normal when you're in a new boat system, but green corrosion never looks good to me. I noticed this and the broken hose clamp when I removed the Heat Ex zinc. Is this corrosion normal?

Boneheaded not to have checked the heat exchanger zinc on new boat before leaving for the winter. What zinc? All eaten away with corrosion visible on outside of the plug plus NO WATER came out of exchanger when I pulled the 7/16 plug. We ran her from Olympia to Port Orchard last November with no temp issues. I know the zinc is a problem, but is it normal for the heat exchanger to be dry?

The propane system worked last Fall. Plenty of fuel...tank valve open, but solenoid switch doesn't have power and (reset? small button) won't hold in. I did disconnect house bank to rebuild battery bench but all the other dc systems seem to be working. Just no light when I turn on switch, and no propane flowing to my stove. Anyone know where to test for dc current to switch? Iv'e tried several poles but nothing. I can't find the actual solenoid, though I know it has to be between tank and stove.

From what I can research, this is a whale valve, but the PO indicated the current position would pump overboard instead of tank. There are no arrows to indicate whether the short or long end of the handle indicates flow.

PO of this 1986 C34 removed shower sump pump because the shower was never used. I have a slow leak somewhere in the head system so I need the drain while I find/fix it. Anyone know where this drain terminates, or where the old sump pump was located?
Thanks in advance.

During the survey on my 86 C34 I saw the main had a couple patches over small tear holes that were coming loose. Overall the sail looked okay to my untrained eye.  Replace or repair? Patch again or send in for professional repair? Best source(s) for sails in PNW?

I've looked through the discussion and done online searches using:garage-pro fan belt tensioner 5"-16". Nada. I even used the JC Whitney stock number. Anyone know where to source it? https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3667.0;attach=1017;image

You may be able to see in the photo that the Phillips heads are already boogered up. I tried to get this center bolt to release with PB Blaster, but no bueno. Looks like time, sun and salinity have done a job on the plastic but the stainless organizer looks okay. Should I cut the heads off if they won't budge (or they get too wallowed out)? I've tried to source the individual cheek pulleys with no luck so far. I'd hate to have to spend $160.00 for a new organizer. This is a Spring project for me, and this particular cheek goes to a headsail halyard I can substitute with my roller furling, but Winter is all about organizing Spring projects and sourcing material.

I've found several articles on here regarding winterizing, but most dealt with boat's in a harsh winter climate, and/or out of the water. Mine will stay in the water. I plan on doing the following:
1. draining the water tanks
2. drain hot water heater (if I can figure out how to reach that valve)
3. Run antifreeze in head system like Ron suggested in an earlier article, except the PO disconnected the shower sump and put in a sea water anchor wash system. I can still get antifreeze into the plumbing by putting it in the sink and wet pumping into the holding tank.

I will have a West Marine heater on frost setting (39deg) and all hatches to engine, galley and head sink area open. I'd put my dehumidifier in the sink, but that would require keeping a through hull open.

Anything I'm missing for this Bremerton, Washington climate? Maybe draining the heat exchanger?

Supposedly it gives me the charge status (0-100%) as well as whether the batteries are charging and the volts. The system I had in the last boat (brand escapes me) was digital. This appears to be an earlier model.

Going over my fuel system, other than the engine shutoff t handle, I can't find an inline shutoff switch. I'm used to gas engines where they're turned off at the end of every run. Should there be one in this system? The manual refers to one, but if it's on or near the tank, that requires panel removing in there aft berth.

Not certain why exhaust from espar is blowing white smoke. My last boat had one and that didn't happen. Out of caution I shut it down. Any ideas. This was a fix based on survey and supposedly it ran fine.

The onboard charger is only 15amps according to surveyor. The PO rarely took the boat out over a three year period. Not sure how the 4 6-volt batteries ran dry. I have new batteries installed as part of agreement. I regularly check my battery water levels but I'll be absent for about 8 months. Any suggestions on how to set up the charging system? My slip neighbor will be running my engines for twenty minutes every 2-3 weeks in my absence. I know the PO x 2 installed a high output alternator...could this have created the problem with the house bank, or was it just neglect on the PO's part?

I read the thread  (June 20,2005) on cruising rpm. Ron made this statement: "With the engine in gear, note what MAX rpm is at the boats fastest speed and then multiply that rpm by .8"

My max RPM during the sea trial was 3400 indicated, but I don't know what a good speed number was due to sails also being up. If I use Ron's technique, do I use the eighty percent of the RPM noted when the speed has stopped increasing, or the WOT RPM of 3400, even though the top speed will be associated with a lower rpm?

I've read several discussions with people using anywhere from 1800-2400 rpm. I know it has to do with the individual boat/set-up. I also noted that the max torque range is between 1800-2000rpm. Is there any point in pushing an engine beyond this max torque range?

Also Stu referred to a link in that discussion, but it is dead (at least to my computer).

Any suggestions on a system to replace the original?

Kinda fuzzy, as my surveyor said. Lots of corrosion. Have to wonder what the inside looks like. After the 60 mile trip to my marina this goes up high on the list to check out.

During the survey the surveyor dipped his finger in the antifreeze and came out with black globules floating in it. Is this the Death-cool sludge (Dex-Cool) or what else might it be?

Looked into the specs and this 2micron is really a 4micron @ 98%. Based upon wiki: "Note also that a 4ų cartridge is not recommended to be used as the primary filter." This one was recommended by a Kubota heavy equipment dealer:Fleetguard FF5226 (98.67% efficient @ 20ų; 65% efficient @ 2ų). Which is better...the Fleetguard or Racor R25S currently on there?

As my old Uncle used to say, "the confusder I go the further I get." I have the same original Oberdorfer raw water pump as Stu, but I don't know the model number because I don't have access to the boat yet, but I need to get on the stick and order a couple impellers, fuel filter for my Racor and engine and a belt for the alternator (modified bracket). I'm losing my fair weather/daylight/ tide window for the 2-3 day trip to my marina from Olympia to Port Orchard. Is there a site I'm missing that recommends the right parts and best source for my M-25 engine? The owner has zero spares and doesn't know as much as I do.

I found this link on Amazon but don't know if it's the correct pump and the gasket is thin enough. https://www.amazon.com/Impeller-Oberdorfer-Ring-9797-034-Gasket/dp/B0744XSCM8
I show a Baldwin BF789 for fuel filter.to replace the original UNI298854

Am I on track here?

With the combination of a great survey (5 1/2 hrs) and all the helpful feedback and info on here, I have a pretty accurate picture of the issues on this 1986 C34. P.O. (X2) did a great job keeping the boat up and documentation, not so much with this owner, which lead to a three year hiatus on basic maintenance. The coolant had something black growing in it and the overflow was empty, yet the motor ran at about 165 (180 indicated in cockpit). House bank batteries had zero water, which may have affected the diesel heater continuing to shut down after start up. Manual Windlass is questionable due to not being able to switch lever to free fall, but that may be user ignorance at this point (owner had never used it). Bottom was in remarkable condition (smile had been repaired at some point in time). Deck had high moisture port side of hatch about 1'x3', but no indication it had compromised it structurally. Propane was inoperable due to a bad connection but was scheduled to be repaired with documentation of pressure testing. Anyway, we're moving forward. Owner will be replacing batteries, fixing propane and diesel issues for future testing. Transmission fluid looked good, no tankage leaking but there was a port light leak showing up after pressure washing, and a leak under the sink somewhere. Overall a good survey, and we're looking forward to officially joining the C34 Good Old Boat gang on here.

Thanks X1,000 for all the assistance during this process. Prepare for more questions!

Found a photo of the windlass. The arrow points at a slide (unfortunately it's on the aft side with just a bit showing). This lever is supposed to slide in a groove to allow the windlass to release for free fall, but it won't budge, so the windlass only retrieves while cranking. I'm trying to find info/manual to see if I'm just missing a step or if it's broken.

Anyone know what windlass came with this model/year C34? During survey I forgot to note this info and the windlass release lever (toe kick type) wouldn't move. Owner had never used it and the broker was clueless on operation. It wasn't a Lewmar, but it was vertical. My guess is it was original equipment.

I've looked online for photos of both Oberdorfer and Sherwood pumps, but this doesn't have the Sherwood stamp embossed on the cover and doesn't look like an Oberdorfer either. Survey tomorrow so I'd like to know if this will need replacement soon or of I'll have issues with parts. Any idea who made it?

I found an old discussion from Oct 2001 discussing deck vs keel stepped masts and hull numbers. It appears deck stepped was an option, as in the 6/86 boat I'll be surveying. My hull number is ctypo162c686. Anyone know what the "c" denotes?

Should I be looking in the traveler mechanism as well as the galley overhead for four bolts? Is there anything else that might tell me if the upgrade was completed? Survey is Wednesday and we're traveling 600 miles one way, hoping we don't have to walk away after the survey, but we want to know everything possible, so I've been scouring the upgrade list and tech notes. What a great site.

I began this search thinking it would be easy, but I can't seem to find anything definitive regarding the actual pigtail connections I need to go to shore power cord. Pigtail options are dizzying. I have a 30amp outlet on my generator and my last boat had this pigtail but it went with the sale of the boat and a PO had purchased it. Anyone know the exact nomenclature for this pigtail? Thanks.

Note: Photo of generator receptacle on Reply3 below.

If you have time would you take a look at these broker-supplied photos and see if anything shows up as a serious issue? The actual survey is the 12th of this month and I'd like to get a jump on it by being better prepared. I see some corrosion and what looks like leaking above the starboard forward engine mount, but not sure if anything else is obvious to someone with experience. Thanks in advance.

We have put a deposit down on a 1986 Catalina34. My engine surveyor is booked out months ahead so I'm on my own to a point. The boat surveyor is very knowledgable but not an engine specialist. I know the alternator bracket was upgraded but the salesman and the current owner are pretty clueless about the boat. Two owners back several upgrades were done but I can't find anything on the M25 other than the alternator bracket. How do I check the status of the riser? Anything else I should be paying attention to on the boat or engine? I've found general articles on surveying sailboats but nothing specific on the MKI.

Thanks in advance.