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I answered a post saying that I'd found a touch up paint that matches the MKI white painted mast&boom.  I said that it was "Interlux Bright White" which was wrong!!

I finally got to the boat and found that it was Interlux "Super High Gloss Enamel" # 301 White.  I was able to get it in a 1 pint can. This is a one part paint. 
Sorry for the mix up (excuse the senior moment!)  Ron 

Guys with a C34 MKII : In case you missed it in the new August 06 Mainsheet, there an interesting lead in article on this subject in the C350 tech notes. 
Apparently Catalina has found that the C350 [with the same engine(M35B), prop and transmission as the C34 MKII] are having some problems.  Catalina is solving those problems with a new "M" series prop that combines "the best performance with minimun cavation".  Looks like Catalina is picking up the cost for the prop swap.
Thought you all might be interested.  Read the article.     

I've been out sailing the Chesapeake Bay since 1 May.  Haven't picked up mail (nor the May06 Mainsheet) and understand it's to be held in Baltimore.  Can anyone give me the dates, which marina, how much ($$) and the deadline for signing up.  Thanks

I can report that my fix with an new lip seal replacement- has stopped the transmission from leaking fluid.
What I did and how I did it should be in an article (with pictures) in this month's issue of the Mainsheet Tech notes.  Close quarters, but it was done without removing the engine or transmission. Could even be done in the water.

Good info in Steve's C34 section of the Mainsheet!! 

INSPECTION ALERT!!!
If you have a Universal M25XPB, M25XPBC, M35B, M35BC or M40 you might want to check this months (Feb. 2006) Mainsheet tech Notes.  Look on page T2 and you'll find the 9 Dec2005 bulletin with the complete inspection instructions and diagrams.

If you don't receive the Mainsheet contact Stu Jackson at mraquaq@aol.com and join our C34 International Association.  The dues are minimal for the info gained.  When you join you'll get a CD with all of the past C34 Tech Notes thru March 2001 & a password to open the complete on line Tech Notes thru 2005.
 
A lot of great information in those Tech notes beside this service bulletin.   

A few post back people were talking about this access.  Thought I attach a few pictures to let you see some ideas. 
I used louvered door on the sides to facilitate ventilation (with out it you get mold).  Also note the "door hook" that holds the insert in place.   

[unbent]

Guys : Let me recap the many posts and conversations that I've read and had on this topic over MANY years.

If you have a unbent stainless rudder column you have the option of sending it back to the Catalina factory in Calif. and they will take your old column, relay it up in new/better filler/foam over a new welded on a stainless grid.  The layup will be the new elliptical design for either the wing or fin keel.  You old column will have the hole drilled for the steering quadrant and will be ready to accept the emergency tiller cap.  (standard and walk thru transoms have different requirements for the emergency tiller cap fixture)  The cost is about 1/2 the cost of an completely new rudder.

A new elliptical rudder will match your requirement for either a wing or fin keel.  However, there will be no hole drill for the steering quadrant and you'lll have to insure that the emergency tiller cap attaches.  I've been told that you may even have to shorten the stainless column, as it may be too long.  To drill any hole/s in that column I'd recommend a drill press to get the hole/s straight and square.  I've been told it is nearly impossible to drill holes in the column - ON the boat. 

Take your old rudder and add the extra surface and make your own elliptical rudder as I did.  See the Mainsheet Nov 2004 Tech Notes.

To summarize:
The old rudder layup is twice the shipping cost, but should slide into your boat for attachment with out modification.
The new rudder will take some modifying and work to make it fit, but is a one way shipping cost. 
Both will be of elliptical design and of excellent quality.

You make the choice.   

Figured it was time to post this topic again.  Here are some of the most common causes of having to replace the oil pan on a marine engine:

1.  Leak from the salt water pump (especially in salt water)!!  The seal that holds the water in the raw water cooling pump starts to fail and leaks water.  The water comes out thru the weep hole and runs down the front of the engine and onto the oil pan/engine mount.  Over time the pan flakes off it's paint and rusts thru from the outside.
2.  Short runs of the engine when it doesn't get up to operating temperature.  Water condenses on the inside of the oil pan.  Water being heavier than oil goes to the bottom of the oil pan and rust it out from the inside.  

Biggest cause of an oil pan gasket leak -- An owner tightening (over torquing) just a few of the bolts - and breaking the oil pan seal.  Usually in the front, thinking an oil leak from the raw water pump is an oil pan leak.  

Phyllis and I will be at the Catalina Owners Booth on Thursday and Friday.  The new C35 is scheduled to make its debut.  This is the best show for talking to the "vendors".  They have time and will actually talk to you and answer your questions - especially on the weekdays.  Catalina throws a nice owners party on Friday about 1700hrs. Stop by and say Hello.  ronphylhill@erols.com  ;)

Ron, Apache #788