After checking into all the boxed options (and looked at the posts), and living so far from our boat, I've decided to have the yard put together DIY lazy jacks. We have a new full battened loose footed main, and want to use our existing sailcover without modifications. What EXACT measurements/choices have really worked?
1. height of cheek blocks on mast (above or below spreaders?)
2. Are 3 legs enough? Is 4 overkill?
3. Measurement of legs from the mast along the boom
4. Blocks vs thimbles or rings?
5. Any other pertinent info that would be useful
Thanks! Kerk
If you are picky about how your sail bag looks, you might have a tough time not making any modifications. I have lazy jacks that came with my boat and the sail bag was not modified. It does connect and cover the sail, but it doesnt have that crisp appearance you would get if you did a few modifications to allow for the legs to exit the bag.
Another option. I use lazy jacks WITH a normal sail cover. Once the sail is stacked/cradled on boom I put on sail ties then release/secure lazy jacks back to the mast and put on my traditional sail cover.
QuoteAnother option. I use lazy jacks WITH a normal sail cover. Once the sail is stacked/cradled on boom I put on sail ties then release/secure lazy jacks back to the mast and put on my traditional sail cover.
That does work very well. The downside is, all the lazy jacks that I've used that were set up that way is the need to go to the mast to deploy the lazy jacks. Installed a dutchman system on my previous boat, I'm a fan.
Jim
Kerk : If you look in the Mainsheet Tech notes you'll find an article that I wrote "On Making Your Own LazyJacks" . I used 3 vertical legs that have worked for over 30 years!! Mine are completely a different design, with no holes in the mast!!
A thought
I am using Ron's design and it works perfectly (Thanks Ron!) :thumb:. I have a full batten main, and traditional sail cover. I believe I used 3/16 inch line, and instead of three cradles I used four. On my previous version I used three and that worked fine also. I left the cradle lines long and fasten them under the boom with a hitched square knot. I just haven't bothered to do anything more there, eventually I may use a nylon clasp if I get around to it. To do it again I would still use four cradles but I would consider using a thicker line where it crosses the spreaders and mast. Really simple and cheap design. I'm going to the boat tomorrow and I can get you some measurements if you are interested.
Thanks for your responses. Yes, Steve, I"d love some measurements. Any other people with measurements would be welcome. It looks as if (from your picture, Noah--and I can't tell if you have 3 or 4 legs) the thought is that the first leg would be about 4 feet from the mast which seems far to me--but maybe it's not? And where are the blocks on the mast? I plan on cheek blocks and line running down to cleats so I can loosen and stow the LJ against the mast and along the boom. Ron and Steve, I've been familiar with and intrigued by Ron's clever LJ rig but think I"ll go more traditional. Any otherLJ owners to chime in with measurements and 3 vs 4 legs, blocks vs thimbles or rings? Thanks for all your help. Steve, I'm envious that you can easily say that your going to your boat tomorrow. I wish I were closer...
I have four "legs" (i.e two triangles). supporting a fully battened, loose footed mainsail. Hard to tell in this pic. Sorry, but I don't have measurements and won't be at the boat for a month as I am recovering from some hip replacement/tune-up surgery. Outlived my 17-year-old implant parts—socket was worn out! BTW- the lazy jacks control lines go to a Johnson cleat attached to the shrouds on either side. I had a rigger make and install my set-up. There are no blocks, just Antal frictionless rings.
Here's our setup on Ohana. I built the sail pack this past winter and used the lazy jack system already installed on the boat as attachment points. (We LOVE this setup)
Originally the LJ attached to four eyes evenly spaced under the boom. There are two turning blocks on either side of the mast just under the spreaders. Both ends terminate at cleats on the mast just forward of the boom and were/are adjustable. Four stainless rings are used as turning points for the two lower lines and I feel they are adequate.
The instructions for the sail pack state that the turning blocks should be attached approximately 2/3 of the distance between the boom and the top of the mast.....but the spreaders we have on our 34's are quite wide and would cause chafe as the line passes them....therefore the only systems I've seen so far attach to the mast below the spreaders, not above them.....anywhere below the spreaders is well below the recommended 2/3 distance noted above.....if anyone has a nifty fix for this, I'm all ears!!!!
Before I built the sail pack we would lower the sail, flake and tie it off and then lower the lazy jacks and run them along the boom so the sail bag would fit well.....if you just slap the bag on without lowering the LJ or modifying the cover....the results can be seen in the photos I've attached.
Thank you all for your info on lazy jacks. I'm going for it and want to do a last double checking and tweaking.
I"ll be doing 4 legs, retractible to mast. Rings
First Leg . 2 1/2 to 3 ft from mast? What's too far so sail flops? What's too close so hard to flake?
Last leg. 2-3 from boom end. What's best so no sail flopping?
middle two. Split the distance or one closer to first to deal with sail bulk?
Cheek Blocks on Mast. Most literature says approx 70% up mast. Under spreader seems low to catch sail. Is this a concern?
Chaffing issue while retracting. important???
Guys : I used 1/4" shock cord under the boom. I fastened plastic hooks on the end of the shock cord that go into an "eye" of the vertical nylon legs. Make sure that you use the black plastic hooks as the UV tends to eatup the white plastic.
A few thoughts