My 1988 Mark I has a probably original Adler Barbour Cold Machine that no longer cycles off, fan doesn't work and is covered in rust. I guess it's time. I was advised to look into a Frigoboat keel cooled unit which reportedly runs very quietly and efficiently. The company says it's a DIY installation. First, I wonder if anyone can report on their experience with this brand. Second, I'm nervous about removal of the old unit. Obviously I should not release the refrigerant but is there a trick to safe removal without calling an expensive technician? What about disposal? Like many, my compressor is under the settee forward of the table with the copper tubing running on top of the starboard water tank.
Have you looked at the Isotherm SP's? I think they are similar technology
Which brings me to a question I've been thinking about.
I have no refrigeration on my '87 and I'm seriously considering an isotherm SP 2050 or 2351 SP as my first refrigeration that I'll install this winter. The 2050 is rated for 4.4 cu ft which is sized close to the '87 ice box. I was thinking, knowing there is no insulation and it may be some time before I tackle the insulation problem and the Chesapeake gets pretty darn steamy, that it might be worthwhile go for the 2351 rated at 5.3 cu ft till I can insulate. Might I have a problem with rapid cycling once I do insulate?
I'd appreciate thoughts on that as well as alternatives such as the Frigoboat
I'm in the same decision making process. I have an origonal AB from 1991. It is rusty and has a burned out board. I could try buying a new board but I think I'd rather spend that money towards a finished working solution. I plan to go with an air cooled unit though. Im looking at an Isotherm 2012. It is sized for a 5.5 cubic foot box. That SHOULD allow for some room if the ambient air temp in the cabin (where the compressor will go) gets a bit on the high side.
I'd love to hear from anyone who has one. This decision has me quite anxious as it is moderatly expenaive and will be with me for a long time.
Bill:
I am in the same position as you: no refrigerator on my 1990. After a lot of back and forth, I decided to go with a portable Engle 45. I'm going to mount it on the seat in the aft cabin, which is where I currently have a portable Igloo cooler. I removed the cushion and use a tie down strap wrapped around the box below the lid, and anchored on the aft cabin bulkhead (on the other side of the stove) and on the starboard liner just forward of the back cushion.
The Engles really don't draw many amps (a strong consideration), are plug and play, and can be easily moved. They also come with plugs for AC and DC. I converted the ice box to all dry storage.
I remember reading (a long time ago) an article by some famous sailor type--I want to say Nigel Calder--who installed one on a brand new Pacific Seacraft 44 and had the factory cut out the dimensions on the galley counter top so he could just pull out the self-contained refer unit from the top for maintenance or replacement. I considered that, but determined our boats don't really have the counter space.
I'll be purchasing one for the upcoming season--after I do my electrical upgrade with the new Firefly batteries. So I don't have first hand experience yet. But many swear by them, including some of the better known sailing vloggers who spend a lot of time off grid.
As Ron would say: a thought.
Patches
QuoteAfter a lot of back and forth, I decided to go with a portable Engle 45.
I have an Engle MR040-U1 that I use as a freezer. Bought it for longer trips where grocery shopping from a boat is a pain. It's quiet, keeps food at 0 F, and doesn't use much battery power. Got to try it out last season on a week long cruise, am happy with it. Tried every place I could think of to put it, ended up port side forward of the knee hole for the nav station. Isn't in the way, too much, and doesn't block anything that I'd need access to. Still thinking about other places.
Off topic, a complaint, on Lake Erie not a lot of anchorages, and most Yacht clubs and marinas ban using a propane grill on a boat. Don't understand the reasoning. Unless it's to encourage restaurant business.
Jim
Brian,
There have been a number of threads on this subject, a lot of good information. You'll have to decide which way you want to go. I did a replacement a couple years ago myself. I was pretty much in the same boat(pun intended)as you. After looking around I decided to stay with Adler Barbour for a few reasons; first, while I'm sure other units are good, my A/B worked flawlessly for 31yrs with zero maintenance before it failed. Second, since it's the same unit, it's a straight R/R with no modification necessary and it's an upgraded unit from the one originally installed in your boat. Additionally it's a very DIY unit, including the charging of the system.
Concerning your old unit, if it's continuously running you've probably already lost your refrigerant. In my case a copper line leading to the original compressor corroded and eventually developed a leak. Had I known and protected those lines my original A/B would probably still be working today.
From 101 Topics:
Refrigeration 101 - link to Richard Kollmann's website
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/
It might be worth some time looking around Richard's site to find out his views on water cooled units. IIRC, he records some negatives about it. Air cooled works just fine for most, save perhaps those in the real tropics. The downsides include more moving parts. Insulation can go a long way to reducing energy use. However, the way you use your boat and where you sail also contribute.
i sailed in San Francisco for 18 years before I moved to Canada in 2016. I also sailed up to The California Delta many times, 95+F daily. I have not added insulation to my box, still have the original A/B with a new module in 2016. It uses 60 ah per day. Jeff Tancock recently added refrigeration to his boat and super insulated his box and reports a daily ah draw of half of mine.
One way to deal with load is to insulate. Another way to do it is to add more storage, i.e., batteries. Of course, this depends on how you use your boat and what systems you have and/or have access to to recharge. I can go for week long outings and charge by motoring between anchorages or plugging in at docks in towns I visit. Others use solar.
Your boat, your choice. :D
Stu,
The fact that you're still using your original A/B unit is a testament to the reliability of that system. Under the heading of if I knew then what I know now, I'd recommend, if you haven't already, that you inspect the copper refrigerant lines for any signs of green corrosion, especially at the connectors on the compressor. That's where mine failed, even a just a protective coat of marine grease and I'd probably still be using my original A/B too.
Thanks, Kevin, good idea, will do.
Years ago I had a friend with a nice old Volvo station wagon, one of those 70s boxy "classic" things. We were in San Francisco, where it rarely got warm/hot. But one day it did, and as I drove around with him I asked why he didn't turn on his air conditioning. "Oh, it doesn't work anymore," he said. He hadn't used it in so long the seals had dried up.
So, as part of pm I run mine every other month for a while.
Now I'll check the copper lines, too. Thanks.
To Stu and others, the Kohlman link no longer works. Looking through the other refrigeration links and replies, still no guidance as far as how to remove and dispose of the old Cold Machine I want to replace. Anyone have any thoughts/experience and anyone ever use a Frigoboat? The idea of 30% less power draw and "virtually silent " running is an attractive combination if the claims are true. I'm a light sleeper and the former cycling compressor and fan used to wake me up.
I have the original Cold Machine too. According to my manual you can unbolt the refrigerant lines from the compressor using two wrenches and you will only lose a drop or two of refrigerant. There are photos of how to do this in the manual and it is very specific where to wrench and where not to. I will be at the boat tomorrow and can take a photo of my manual's compressor disassembly instructions and send it to you.
Brian,
Thanks, need to take the hyphen out, try this, I'll go correct the 101 link, too.
Refrigeration 101 - link to Richard Kollmann's website
http://www.kollmannmarine.com
Quote from: Noah on December 15, 2020, 05:01:12 PM
I will be at the boat tomorrow and can take a photo of my manual's compressor disassembly instructions and send it to you.
Also interested in this as i too have to open mine up. I was concerned i would need a refrigerant specialist who could capture it so i could then remove it.
Brian,
Sorry, I think we've wandered off topic concerning your original questions. Regarding the question of disposal, Noah is correct, the couplings have valves which prevent refrigerant loss and while there is a specific process for connecting the couplings to prevent leakage, disconnection is just a matter of unscrewing the couplings.
On your question of the Frigoboat unit, I took a look at it and this is what I found; it uses a Danfoss compressor like the A/B, the control module looks identical to the A/B unit, the evaporator is the same as A/B uses, the fan looks about the same as the A/B fan, it has pre-charged lines also like the A/B. The Frigoboat compressor unit is assembled exactly like the A/B unit so it has the same install footprint and pricewise it costs about the same as the A/B unit. In other words depending on weather you buy a Frigoboat or an A/B you're basically getting the same unit.
As far as the claims of 30% less power draw and "virtually silent", that will be hard to determine until you've actually installed it. As far as the 30% less power draw goes, the current A/B unit has been improved and upgraded over the '80s unit, includes a more efficient compressor(same as the Frigoboat) that runs much colder than the original which means you can run the compressor less time to maintain the same temperature in the fridge. That might be where that 30% figure comes from. The virtual silence might just be in the ears of the beholder, maybe it is quieter than the A/B unit but the Frigoboat fan looks just like the one I've got on my A/B.
Hope these scans work?!?
Here is mine , FM 200 under the starboard setae. It keeps the freezer frozen and if I am out for a week I usually through a block of ice in the bottom of the box. unit is very quiet.
Quote from: waughoo on December 13, 2020, 09:36:59 PM
I'm in the same decision making process. I have an origonal AB from 1991. It is rusty and has a burned out board. I could try buying a new board but I think I'd rather spend that money towards a finished working solution. I plan to go with an air cooled unit though. Im looking at an Isotherm 2012. It is sized for a 5.5 cubic foot box. That SHOULD allow for some room if the ambient air temp in the cabin (where the compressor will go) gets a bit on the high side.
I'd love to hear from anyone who has one. This decision has me quite anxious as it is moderatly expenaive and will be with me for a long time.
Noah,
Those worked. Thanks for taking the time to post em'
Quote from: glennd3 on December 16, 2020, 03:06:15 PM
Here is mine , FM 200 under the starboard setae. It keeps the freezer frozen and if I am out for a week I usually through a block of ice in the bottom of the box. unit is very quiet.
Thanks... this is where i plan to install mine and looks to be about the exact same condensor set up i am looking at (isotherm 2012). I like that it has the duct so one can actually get the air out rather than just stirring it up.
Bill,
Regarding your question about rapid cycling, by insulating you should get the opposite effect. That is to say the better your cold box is insulated, the fewer times your system will need to cycle to maintain the desired cold temperature, and require fewer amps.
As far as which unit to choose, if you go air cooled I'd say there's not much difference between the Frigoboat, Isotherm, or the A/B. If you go keel or water cooled, while I do find the keel cooled concept interesting, both will require more attention when it comes to install and maintenance.
Thanks Kevin. A friend has an Isotherm SP on his boat for 6 years and its been trouble free and he loves it. His was installed by the PO. That said, I'm not able to find much for reviews from users for them, and haven't found the dislike info Stew referenced from that site either. So, the lack of user info on them makes me a little uneasy. How much warm air do the ABs pump in to the saloon when located under the stbd settee like you have which is where I'd like to install whatever I get.
I found this from several years ago which is helpful.. http://www.ventspleen.com/isotherm-sp-asu-fridge-review/
I've been away from the site a few days so thanks for all the discussion in between. To Kevin's comment that the Frigoboat is basically the same as the AB, I'm actually considering the keel cooled model, not air or water cooled. With this, there is no fan but it does require a new 1" through hull. I was told this creates a much more efficient heat exchange especially since I'm in Massachusetts where the ocean water rarely reaches 70 F. I suspect this could lead to rapid cooling, therefore shorter cycles and power savings. The lack of a fan is attractive as I'm a very light sleeper and used to be aware of the fan cycling on and off all night 3 feet from my head in the V-berth. The down side is that it's almost $1800, double what I'm seeing for a complete Isotherm unit. I was hoping somebody could report on actual Frigoboat experience although this system may be mainly used on bigger boats than ours. Brian
Light sleeper on a boat, Refer may not be the biggest issue. :shock:
Quote from: Analgesic on December 20, 2020, 06:03:09 AM
I've been away from the site a few days so thanks for all the discussion in between. To Kevin's comment that the Frigoboat is basically the same as the AB, I'm actually considering the keel cooled model, not air or water cooled. With this, there is no fan but it does require a new 1" through hull. I was told this creates a much more efficient heat exchange especially since I'm in Massachusetts where the ocean water rarely reaches 70 F. I suspect this could lead to rapid cooling, therefore shorter cycles and power savings. The lack of a fan is attractive as I'm a very light sleeper and used to be aware of the fan cycling on and off all night 3 feet from my head in the V-berth. The down side is that it's almost $1800, double what I'm seeing for a complete Isotherm unit. I was hoping somebody could report on actual Frigoboat experience although this system may be mainly used on bigger boats than ours. Brian
Brian,
The determining factor when it comes to compressor/fan cycling is the temp in the cold box and not what the temp is in the compressor/fan area. In other words the better insulated your cold box is the fewer the times your compressor is going to cycle, which of course will lead to an increase in energy savings.
It sounds like the keel cooler will solve your sleeping problem, but that good nights sleep is going to cost you about $500. If you sleep in the V-berth, it sounds like your compressor is in the starboard settee like Glenn. If the main issue is fan noise you can always stick with a fan unit and just move it to the aft cockpit locker, which is a common location, and save yourself the $500.
I am about to replace my original AB unit as well. It is in the aft locker and a PIA to troubleshoot or reach back there, but that is the best spot on my boat for it, and where the new one will live as well. The Isotherm is a bit cheaper and has a "better" warranty than A/B (uses same Danfoss 50 compressor as A/B) but it comes with only a short 3ft. long copper tube set, so one would have to source a 15+ ft. set. Isotherm offers a 9 ft. extended set for $200+ additional, but I can't seem to find any that are longer and compatible? Anyone have experience with this issue? I have not yet spoken to Sure Marine in Seattle. I still may go with the new A/B which comes with 15ft.
Quote from: Noah on December 20, 2020, 08:39:54 AM
I am about to replace my original AB unit as well. It is in the aft locker and a PIA to troubleshoot or reach back there, but that is the best spot on my boat for it, and where the new one will live as well. The Isotherm is a bit cheaper and has a "better" warranty than A/B (uses same Danfoss 50 compressor as A/B) but it comes with only a short 3ft. long copper tube set, so one would have to source a 15+ ft. set. Isotherm offers a 9 ft. extended set for $200+ additional, but I can't seem to find any that are longer and compatible? Anyone have experience with this issue? I have not yet spoken to Sure Marine in Seattle. I still may go with the new A/B which comes with 15ft.
Noah!
When I replaced my original AB unit with a new AB unit, I installed it next to the Propane locker, as that space was somewhat useless any way. Its a perfect place for the AB Compressor as now it is very easy to service vs Catalinas original location which as you said presents a PIA situation for servicing. You have the same Sugar Scoop layout so that would make a better choice than below the platform.
Thx B- unfortunately that shelf space is spoken for with the propane and a big-ass Halatron fire extinguisher. I have the aft water tank already "temporarily" removed (again) for some other work back there so I will go with the "deep below" install space again. Hopefully, with a new system installed, I can put the tank back in and close-up the bulkhead and let it live unattended for many years to come. Best laid plans! :abd:
Quote from: Noah on December 20, 2020, 10:16:13 AM
Thx B- unfortunately that shelf space is spoken for with the propane and a big-ass Halatron fire extinguisher. I have the aft water tank already "temporarily" removed (again) for some other work back there so I will go with the "deep below" install space again. Hopefully, with a new system installed, I can put the tank back in and close-up the bulkhead and let it live unattended for many years to come. Best laid plans! :abd:
It looks like your Propane Tank is in same position as mine, so its the dead space behind the propane tank where I mounted the AB Compressor.
Noah,
The A/B comes with 15' refrigerant lines and they will reach, barely. This is as long as you mount the evaporator on the aft wall of the cold box and mount the compressor as far forward in the aft locker as possible, inches count here. On my boat this is how it was shipped from the factory, I'm aware on some boats the compressor and evaporator were mounted in different locations. I know mounting it at the bottom of that locker is a pain as far as access for maintenance is concerned, but guess what, it never needs maintenance!
Also, since your aft water tank is already out, I'd recommend doing the compressor install from the aft cabin.
Kevin-that was my plan, install from below.. Still not easy install but...Bernd, I like your use of that dead space, but I don't think it is a much better/easier place to install, nor access, besides as Kevin says, it makes for a longer tube run. I will noodle on it. I plan to order whatever I buy, A/B or Isotherm this week
Quote from: scgunner on December 20, 2020, 11:30:53 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>...
I know mounting it at the bottom of that locker is a pain as far as access for maintenance is concerned, but guess what, it never needs maintenance!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Let's not mislead anybody here. The unit
normally doesn't need any regular maintenance.
BUT, BUT, BUT!!!
You MAY have to replace the fan.
Mine's in the bottom at the back, I've replaced two or three fans in the past 23 years. I've found 4" computer fans from Radio Shack are $24 instead of A/B's $42.
I replaced the module in 2016, too. I got it from rParts in Santa Cruz, 4 plug model.
Yes Stu, you are of course right, I stand corrected. I was basing that statement on only my experience which may not be representative of the overall reliability of the unit. I would say however that it is reliable enough that it can be installed in an out of the way place, like the bottom of the rear locker, without worry of needing easy access for regular maintenance, like the motor for example.
I do like Bernd's install, very nice. In the picture you can see the bends in the lines leading to the couplings, that's what I was talking about, that's where mine failed do to corrosion. In the stock installation I think that's the most exposed and venerable part of those copper lines and therefore the most likely point of failure.
Noah,
With the tank and the bulkheads removed I found the install of the new unit pretty straightforward, dare I say easy? As I recall the refrigerant lines are permanently attached to the evaporator, in which case if you like the Isotherm compressor unit you could probably use the A/B evaporator with the '15 lines instead of the short line Isotherm evaporator since compressor and evaporator are sold separately. I'm not sure how that will effect the overall price.
I ordered the A/B replacement units today from Defender. In my research I learned that the Isotherm, and other brands, except A/B do NOT have a bottom on their freezer "box" style rectangular evaporators. So, unless you fabricate some sort of homemade bottom, you can't use the A/B stand-up ice cube trays, and they won't hold any frozen food (pint of ice cream :cry4`) in there. Plus, I would have needed to buy extend tubing kit(s) to make my 15ft. run work.
You are correct about not having a bottom, I had to make one. I can take pictures next time at boat for someone to use as a reference . It seemed to be not logical to not have it.
Quote from: Noah on December 21, 2020, 11:22:17 AM
I ordered the A/B replacement units today from Defender. In my research I learned that the Isotherm, and other brands, except A/B do NOT have a bottom on their freezer "box" style rectangular evaporators. So, unless you fabricate some sort of homemade bottom, you can't use the A/B stand-up ice cube trays, and they won't hold any frozen food (pint of ice cream :cry4`) in there. Plus, I would have needed to buy extend tubing kit(s) to make my 15ft. run work.
I just finished removing old fridge unit. A PIA removing old copper lines solo. I may try and get some help fishing through the new lines when new A/B system arrives next week. I see an easy possibilty of kinking new lines during install if not watching/attending both ends.
Noah,
That surprises me, I think when I removed my old copper lines it may have taken all of 15 min,with apair of wire cutters it was just a matter of snip and pull. I don't even think I had to pull the stove for the removal, it's gotta come out for install though.
I did the whole project solo, including installing the new copper lines. As the Brits say, it can be a bit fiddlely, but certainly manageable. The way I did mine was to fully uncoil the copper lines in the main salon, setting the evaporator up by the forward bulkhead with a nice gentle curve in the lines, this is where the stove has to come out. Then you can start feeding the lines into the reefer out behind the stove space then into the aft cabin. As you feed the lines adjust the curve of the lines in the cabin to avoid binding. Protect the evaporator box, it's fragile, don't bang it or let it drop. Eventually you'll have the lines stretched under the aft cabin to the compressor and have the E box eased down into the reefer. After that it's just a matter of installing, connecting, and securing. Hope this helps.
Thx-Kevin. Not sure what your "snip snip" was but, my copper line was attached to fiberglass with 8 countersunk bolts/lock washers/nuts/wire clamps, and insulated the full run. Tgen thermostate wire was separtly attach with clamps. Also, I had to be careful of propane line running next to it. And under bunk, bilge pump hose, blower hoses and engine control cables also need to be avoided if pushing/pulling blindly. I did not have to remove stove and believe I won't heed to do so to install new line. I hope. Also, the hole in the ice box around the copper lines was packed with lots of insulating dough/putty that was messy to dig out.
I am just a complainer, I guess...
Noah,
Sounds like a PO really didn't want them coming loose. Mine were originally just laid along the bottom with an occasional zip tie. If you're going to insulate I'd suggest doing only the cold line, leaving the warm line bare allows some additional cooling before it reaches the compressor. If you do insulate the cold line you might want to put holes in the bottom side of the insulation about every foot or so to allow any condensation build up to drain free. You should get a new wad of putty for that hole with the new reefer.
Only one of my lines was insulated but both were anchored all along the 15ft. run.
For those that have their air-cooled compressor installed in the settee seats or port hanging locker, is the heat from the compressor at all noticeable?
Bill, Not on mine, Happy New Year!
Quote from: Bill Shreeves on December 28, 2020, 09:02:14 PM
For those that have their air-cooled compressor installed in the settee seats or port hanging locker, is the heat from the compressor at all noticeable?
It is not so much the "noticeable" heat given off by the condenser (coil), but rather it is moving the hot air away from the coil so that it can perform its cooling function. That's why folks put grilles in front of the unit in those locations. When installed in the lazarette, there is enough room around the unit to keep relatively cool air moving and keep the condenser working. It's a heat transfer issue.
Bill, no noticeable issue for me either. The black plastic grille on the left is an example of what Stu was describing.
Thanks guys regarding the "warm air". Still on the fence between AB & the Isotherm SP. I intend to install whatever I buy in the STBD compartment in front of the water tank. Thinking that I'd prefer not to introduce noticeable warm air in to the salon if that was a factor. it sounds like that isn't a con for air cooled vs self pump sea water.
I'd really appreciate any pro / cons on the Isotherm Compact SP if anyone has experience
I am currently in the process of installing A/B unit from Defender. Have run into some A/B/Dometic quality control issues so far.
1. The controller terminal strip was not seated properly in its case. I corrected this and secured the plastic holding pins through their slotted ends with small black wire ties. Solving this issue.
2. The evaporator was missing the install template and the standoffs required for mounting. Have complained to both Defender and Dometic. Defender replied quickly and said they will work on issue to get me missing parts. I also called Dometic and got no response due to holiday (?) Meanwhile, I order replacement generic stand-off l from Amazon Prime which arrived the next day for $6.
Hopefully I don't find any other issues when I get system installed.
When My unit was installed we had to add some lines that were precharged because of the distance between the unit and refer box. The next season the unit needed to have a charge. The tech came and tested for leaks, none found and added some freon. Used all of last season without a problem. I am not sold on the charged lines making for a perfect system. Unit was installed by a certified marine AC service.
Noah,
That install kit is basically; the template, some S/S screws, nylon spacers, and a wad of putty. It's an easy work around if you have problems getting a replacement install kit. It's a little disappointing to hear how your A/B unit arrived, I found the build quality and the packing for shipment to be excellent. Maybe you should shoot Dometic a message just to let them know how your unit arrived.
Glenn,
I'm just curious where you mounted your compressor to make the extension lines necessary?
Just forward of the STB water tank. Missed it by about a foot or two.
Quote from: scgunner on January 02, 2021, 07:54:53 AM
Noah,
That install kit is basically; the template, some S/S screws, nylon spacers, and a wad of putty. It's an easy work around if you have problems getting a replacement install kit. It's a little disappointing to hear how your A/B unit arrived, I found the build quality and the packing for shipment to be excellent. Maybe you should shoot Dometic a message just to let them know how your unit arrived.
Glenn,
I'm just curious where you mounted your compressor to make the extension lines necessary?
Kevin- I believe Glenn's is Not an A/B but a Frigoboat FM 200 which comes with much shorter copper hose set standard and a smaller Danfoss 35 (not 50) compressor.
Noah,
I think it shows they're all basically the same but differ in the details, which can make a big difference when it comes time to install. For anyone getting ready to do this make sure you know what you need and what you're purchasing. The short line units are cheaper than the long run units, but as Glenn found out if you can't reach with a short line unit you'll have to use the extension lines which are pricey and off set any initial savings.
I've decided to go with a Dometic Air Cooled condensing unit and Dometic evaporating unit for my first refrigeration unit because it appears they're extremely popular, well supported and reliable. Of course, the next choice is which one.
Many on this site mention having the Cold Machine. From what I find, the smallest Cold Machine CU-100 supports a much larger icebox of 15 cu ft. than the C34 has. Have most intentionally purchased an over-sized CU-100 condensing unit for greater cooling capacity or, are they more likely referring to the Coolmatic cu-80 series for 8.83 cu ft or cu-50 series for 4.6 cu ft.?
Thanks for any help with this
What do you mean by a "Dometic." Adler Barbour was bought out by Dometic and the ColdMachine 100 and 150 are both now "Dometic's". They ColdMachine now only comes with a Danfoss 50. There is a smaller Danfoss 35 but does not come as an Adler Barbour/Dometic configuration (I believe). The ColdMachine 100 set-up may be a bit "overpowered" with the 50 compressor and its matching evaporator, and use a very slight bit more amps running, but it will run for less time to get and keep things cold. Again, I am not an expert by any means , but that is my understanding. One more thing; while I am happy with my new ColdMachine, I did find that Dometic's customer service was subpar. This may be the case with all big manufactures do to the pandemic but...?
Thanks for the feedback Noah.
Defender shows:
The CU-100 as an "Adler/Barbour ColdMachine Kits by Dometic powered by a SeCOP BD50F compressor
CU-80 series as a Dometic Coolmatic powered by a Danfoss / SeCOP BD35F
CU-50 Series as a Dometic Coolmatic 50 Series also powered by a Danfoss / SeCOP BD35F
So, however we want to interchange Adler/Barbour and Dometic names along with a Danfoss compressor I'm good with assuming we're still talking the same quality products. I was most interested in sizing. If going with a CU-100 will provide better capacity, faster cooling and still run efficiently when temperature is achieved and maybe be less taxed over time for a few more bucks, I'm all for it. Just looking for what others have experienced on the c34's as some guidance.
Well I'm not sure if this will clear up or add to the confusion. The original unit in my boat was an Adler Barbour, it came with an instruction booket/manual, on the cover the A/B unit was called the Cold Machine. Some years later A/B was acquired by Dometic, my understanding is everything basically stayed the same with Dometic as the parent company. So essentially your getting an A/B unit like the one which Catalina originally installed in the boat, albeit an improved version.
Bill,
On the question of sizing, the new A/B compressor unit has a slightly smaller footprint the the original, which makes install easy. If you're talking unit size the CU-100 with the CU-150 evaporator is the straight across replacement.
Kevin,
Thanks for the info, it is helpful. Curious, did Catalina insulated the icebox when they installed refrigeration at the factory?
Bill,
No Catalina didn't really do much in the way of refrigerator insulation. A number of guys on this board have gone back and upgraded the insulation. The upgrade isn't easy and can get pretty involved but it's definitely worth it. It will require less power to maintain your desired temperature.
This is one of those corners that Catalina cut, like the charging system, sailing gear, among other things. To be fair to Catalina, the idea was to deliver a nice affordable boat that would appeal to a wide range of sailors, I think they achieved that goal. I have no doubt Frank Butler could have built a top notch, fully decked out, blue water cruising boat, but I don't think the price would have appealed to many people.
I believe the Dometic CoolMatic condenser/compressor "platform" has a larger physical footprint than the ColdMachine. Something to consider for placement/mounting. And, the ColdMachine evaporator is the only one I found that has a bottom on it, to make it a self-contained freezer unit. Something, also to consider?
Yeah, thanks for the info guys. I think I'm pretty much set on the CU-100 ColdMachine Air Cooled with the VD-151 ColdMachine evaporating unit. That one includes a lid for the O-shaped unit. I intend to install on the Stbd side in front of the water tank like Glennd3 pictured. I think I'll wait for the Defender Spring Sale to buy them. I'll go for insulating the box next winter. I have enough on my plate this year.
Quote from: Bill Shreeves on February 16, 2021, 08:13:10 PM
I think I'll wait for the Defender Spring Sale to buy them.
I'm quite new to Defender shopping. When is this sale you speak of? I too need to buy a new unit and had planned to buy through them, but can definitely wait a bit.
QuoteI'm quite new to Defender shopping.
Go to the Defender web page and sign up for their emails. They don't overdo sending out emails. When I was buying more boat parts I signed up for the First Customer or what ever it was called. Saved me some and was no problem dropping it. I've never had a problem with Defender and when I've talked with their people found them to be very helpful.
https://www.defender.com/
Jim
Thanks Jim. I did get onboard with their defender 1st program. It has been a good source of savings. Ill check on the email list submission.
Quote from: waughoo on February 16, 2021, 08:55:33 PM
Quote from: Bill Shreeves on February 16, 2021, 08:13:10 PM
I think I'll wait for the Defender Spring Sale to buy them.
I'm quite new to Defender shopping. When is this sale you speak of? I too need to buy a new unit and had planned to buy through them, but can definitely wait a bit.
They have a big week-long sale every March with some really great prices. I live about a 5-hour drive away and, except last Spring, drive up on the Saturday and spend way too much money because some of the deals are too good to pass up. One year I brought back my 8' Hypalon RIB.
If you sign up for the emails like suggested you'll get notified