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I have a 88 catalina 25 kubota motor, hull 613, don't have a oil pressure gauge, just a light which I am not sure works, I have read the archieves but couldn't find where anyone actually installed a guage at the engine instrument panel, has anyone done this "upgrade"?  If so what did you use and where did you connect from on the engine, did you have to replace the old sending unit?, boat is 160 miles away otherwise I may be able to diagnose some of this.  thank you, appreciate your help.  Bobg

Ken, by butt joint, I meant twisting both ends together lengthwise and then solder, then slip the heat shrink over it, that spot in the wire will be stiff, (not stranded any longer) therefore subject to maybe break. pretty unlikely though.  Thank you all,   Bob

Stu, I was talking about the 120 14/3 wire, after research on the web, I may have found a small pencil flame butane that may work, my solder gun which gets red hot, isn't enough to heat the wire to solder, and my propane torch gets to big and hot. When you are upside down and backwards on the boat, you just want to get it done as you all know.   I have been practicing in the garage with different types.  Was just wondering if anyone had a certain brand gun that they would recommend.  Also while searching the web, there is a faction that doesn't recommend butt soldering strand wire.  They say it makes it less flexible and brittle in that area.  I am not going along with that and am sticking with the experts on this board.  it does make for interesting read.  Thanks  Bob

Once again I jumped the gun and didn't read the archives first, I do believe the wire is copper tinned, and a torch is the only item that will get it hot enough for buttjoints, butt joints that are wrapped around each other without using a butt fitting. (from Ron)  Also I learned that you CAN leave the plastic on and gently heat up and solder the part of wire that sticks through.  I am noticing many bad fitting on my boat (freshwater) where they have overheated and turned black, (hotwater heater for one) and at the ignition switch, fittings at the regulator was green corroded and ready to break  .  would be nice if I could by a soldering device that puts out a pencil hot flame.  Anyone have one in mind? Thanks again  Bob

I know "crimp" "solder" and heat shrink, but on my boat AC wiring I just can't seem to get the wire "stainless?" hot enough, and if I use a propane torch, it will work, but it burns everything around it.  Does anyone have information on what to use to get it hot enough to solder?  The electric plug in one I have doesn't do it, and the bunsen solder iron doesn't do it either.  Thanks in advance   Bob on Ghostrider, 1988 hull #613

I have a honda 1000w, I bought a cord to go from the honda to the shore power connection and the honda wanted to trip out.  There is a rocker  on the honda that should be off when starting and activated while running.  I have been told that was my problem but havn't been up to the boat to try it, also I may have had my hotwater heater on when I plugged it in.  Wouldn't it be great to have the boat home when we want to try something?
Also Ron, I tried to put it in  my port locker and the lid wouldn't close, it was close but I needed another 1/4 to 1/2" to close it.  Did you have to modify yours a little bit to get it to fit? I have a 1988 hull number 613, I have no doubt yours fits but I wonder why I can't get mine in.

My friend just bought a 2000 for under 900 bucks at fleet supply in MN.  My 1000 cost me $589.00 at fleet.  Bob

Hi All, I am the guy with the earlier post on engine instrument cluster problem.  I do believe the problem was in the ignition switch.  Before I replaced the switch, when I turned it on, and over to heat the glow plugs, the alarm noise would really deepen, indicating a major draw on the switch, I did notice the wire ends were darkened.  jWith the new switch, there is no different tone to the noise, the only indication I have that the glowplugs are on is the drop at the voltage meter. (my little light must be burned out)  and of course the motor starting.
I noticed I do not have the glowplug solenoid uipgrade installed, will get right on it.  Sometimes a little trouble with the boat gets us to learn a lot, and with the help from this board, we can usually get it fixed.  By the way, the ignition switch was bought at a marine store for 17 bucks, I checked with auto stores and it was a real hassel, I must have looked at 20 switches trying to find one that worked.  Went to the local marine store and there was the direct replacement, so sometimes marine stores aren't as bad price wise as we think.  Thanks guys,   Bob

This started here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4381.msg25599.html#msg25599

sorry to hear about the strike, Lightning hit the boat next to me two years ago, I started to have problems with my boat also, the bottom line, it took out my battery charger, lots of wierd stuff went on until I disconnected  it. But you say you were at a mooring, probably not plugged in to shore power as I was.

Hi guys, will get hull number next time, and you are right about the terminology Ron, am going to the boat today and will run it all down, I will get a new switch, check out the fuse holder, although according to Pierre, he had power at the engine intrument cluster, but the blown fuse wouldn't allow the engine to turn over, I had nothing at the cluster.  I am not sure if the glow plugs have been upgraded, will check that out also.  This is all a little hard to check seeing as how it healed itself on the trip back, but I will certainly do a thourgh hands on system check.  Thanks again guys   Bob

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Ray, I wasn't that quick on my feet, it was the last thing I tried after a hour of headscratching and troubleshooting.
Thank you all very much for your pormpt replies, Stu the fuse looked good when I troubleshot the system, thats when I started to get real worried. Will definetly get extra fuses
Steve. I like the idea of duplicating the starting circuit. will look into that a little more. 
I will probably put a new switch in for sure like Ken says and investigate the idea of jumping the glow plugs, at least to see how to do it and if it works.
I am thinking from these answers, if the tank is over half full, I should be able to get fuel,
Run a hot wire from the battery to the glow plugs, trigger the solenoid with a screwdriver, and the motor should start.  I do know one thing, After the permanent fix, for piece of mind,I better get going on a backup plan.

The Boat next to me has the same engine, (universal "kubota" MK25) it is in a Cal 30, in addition, he has a outboard motor kickup bracket, like on the trailerables. he is able to mount his dinghy motor on this in emergancies,  I think it is overkill, but gotta admit, I was thinking about it when I couldn't start my engine.
As you all know, it can get real freaky out there when you are with the kids, 14 miles out, wind on the nose, Sunday, work in the morning 160 miles away. and no one to call.  Thanks guys, Bob on ghostrider

One more question guys, (ya right).  I was 14 miles out in a anchorage with my 2 teenage daughters. went to start the boat and had nothing at the key.  Troubleshot the batteries, all good, took the cluster out, (what a job, the fuel shut off handle is in the way,) was able to kind of get it open, long story short, ran a negative ground wire to the cluster, didn't help, ran a positive wire from the positive side of my dedicated start battery, touched it to a terminal on the ignition switch and "eureka" everything powerd up, Blower, and buzzer, and glowplugs.  started the motor pulled anchor headed for home.  when we got there, I couldn't duplicate the problem, everything worked, however I will never trust it again. 

Question one:   do you think it is the switch>? if so, do I have to go through Catalina to get one? this switch also activates the glow plugs.

Question two:  I was able to turn the engine over jumping the solenoid, but the engine wouldn't start, I'm thinking the glowplugs had to be activated to start.  Can this be done someway without the ignition switch? 

Question three:  Do I need the electric fuel pump running to start the engine, or does my engine have a hi pressure mechanical fuel pump to keep the engine running in case the electric fuel pump doesn't activate>or fails

I realize some of these questions should be self evident, but the boat is 160 miles away and I didn't bring my books with me and won't be going up there for 2 weeks, I will do further research on this website when I get time, but I am leaving for St louis, from Mpls and won't get to it it for about 10 days.  Thankyou all very much for any information you could share.  I will be checking the website in a internet cafe and want to order what I need while gone.   Bob G

you are right, I don't know my hull number, can't find it. will take stu's suggestion next time on the boat and look there.  Thank you all for your information.  I really like the boat, however it is 160 miles from me, I should carry a laptop with me so I don't have to wait to get home for the website.  You guys are really helpful, I refer this site to everyone weather the have a catalina or not.  Bob

thank you all for your answers, so do I run screws to the couch roof, or run through bolts, I am thinking screws that won't go through, but will that be strong enough?  I like the idea of 12/120 volt lights. Bobg

I have a metal plate above the rear seat, it has the number 613 stamped on it, can't read it well, but wondering what that plate is, it is about 2x3 inches.  Could that be the hull number?  Thanks  Bob

Making a galley shelf like the ones seen in the archieves, I can't fing anything on how to hang the shelf to the ceiling, do you drill through the boat and put bolts, or is the roof strong enough to run screws?  would like to have wood dowles instead of steel pipe with a flange, although not criticle to do the wood.  Any ideas would be appreciated, also how to connect the other end to the boat.  Thanks guys   Bob