Messages

You might consider relocating the HX altogether.  I plan to remount mine further aft to improve access to the transmission fluid dip stick.  Also gets the HX away from the exhaust pipe. There were some post earlier about doing this. I have the flat type of mount and plan to reuse by basically bolting somewhere below the aft berth.  Not sure if I will need some sort of extension.

If you make the modification please post some pictures. I'm going to live with the 2" HX until the next time it needs to be removed and flushed. By then I hope to know what needs to be done to install the 3" HX and leave the transmission dip stick available for checking. '

Thanks,

James,

The bracket can be bent down enough to clear.  That's what I did.

Stu,

Thanks much. That sounds simple enough. I bent the curve of the 2" bracket to fit the 3" HX and remounted it on the motor. When I tried to install the 3" HX I couldn't get it to clear the exhaust fitting. It was difficult to work over the back of the motor trying to hold the 3" HX on the bracket when it wouldn't fit, so I really couldn't tell how much adjustment was needed for clearance.

Since I had both the old 2" HX and 3" HX cleaned, pressure tested, painted, and ready for installation I decided to just install the 2" HX so I could get the project finished.

If you have a picture of your modification or even the 3" HX installed please post here at some point. That will be a good reference as to how much bend is needed.

Thanks again,

I want to install a 3" Heat Exchanger on my Universal M25 where I currently have a 2" Heat Exchanger. The problem is that the mounting bracket for the 2" HX is too high for the 3" HX to fit under the exhaust fitting, and I cannot shift the 3" HX far enough away from the exhaust fitting to work.

Has anyone fabricated or know if an after marker Heat Exchanger bracket is available for mounting a 3" HX on a Universal M25 engine? Pictured below is the mounting bracket for a 3" HX off a M25XP on the left and the mounting bracket a 2" HX off my M25 on the right. Also pictured is the back of the engine where the 2" mounting bracket attaches using 2 bolts from the bellhousing.

The 2" mounting bracket bolts to the bell housing on the M25 through the vertical bends of the bracket. The 3" mounting bracket attaches with 2 bolts into the top of the bellhousing. My M25 does not have bolt holes in the bellhousing.

I envision the remedy for this problem to be a modified mounting bracket with mounting bolts the same as the bracket for the 2" HX but to extend back and lower in order to accommodate the 3" HX. I've search the previous posts about this and can't find any specific information about a modified mounting bracket.

I appreciate the help in advance.

Have you considered refinishing your sole?  While a new sole would no doubt be even nicer, I had really good luck with rejuvenating the sole on my 1990 (wish I could do the same for my soul) by stripping, sanding (you can sand more than you might think), and finishing with Ultimate Sole (miraculous product).  It might be worth trying the worst panel (perhaps the one at the companionway?) to see if you like the results before you go to the trouble of re-fitting all the sole with new boards.  You might be surprised at the difference.

I refinished the flooring panels in my boat #299 after purchasing her. The floor panels had actually been under water because the PO didn't check the boat for months and the bilge pump had failed. See the attacked picture of the several step process.

Can't you just tee your A/C condensate into an existing tru-hull drain line somewhere?

No, the AC drain is below the waterline. It's about the same level as the shower drain.

Why do you need a "shower sump pump kit"? Why not go with the OEM set-up with a pump hooked to shower drain hose then to the designated thru-hull (with anti-syphon loop)?

I have the OEM sump pump set up. Installed a new pump last year. It works well, but I'd like to run the HVAC condensation line into a sump pump basin rather than have it draining into the bilge. If I can install a basin low enough for the HVAC then I can also route the drain for the shower and take care of both with one pump and float switch.

Paul,

Thanks.  That's a very good description of the conduits.  I also have a conduit from the holding tank area below the main electrical panel that runs underneath the nav station locker and the head sole to underneath the head sink.  This conduit originally was for the #4 OEM wire "to and from" the alternator output to the C post of the 1-2-B switch.  When I installed our 100A alternator and ran the AO to the house bank, routed underneath the engine to the water heater space and then to the battery box and its fuse, that wire then only ran from the C post to the starter.

I still fail to understand how any "hole in the sole" would provide any access to a closed PVC conduit, nor how it would help in any way.  Noah's comment about access to the shower sump is the only hole there that makes any sense and the only hole ever mentioned in the last 32 years. 

Stu,

I don't think I have conduit under the cabin sole, at least I haven't noticed any. I do understand Paul's interest in creating an inspection opening in the cabin sole to allow access for possibly installing a shower sump kit, and to gain access for cleaning the bilge in the area between the galley and steps. I also hope to route my HVAC condensation drain into the shower sump pump to prevent that water from going into the bilge, where it currently runs. It's not that big of a deal but I'd really like to keep the bilge dry if possible. That's currently impossible, at least in the summer when the AC is running.

This proposed access area would also allow easier access for running the hot water hoses from the engine to the water heater.

As I mentioned in an earlier comment, I removed the teak/holly plywood from the galley and replaced it with a dimensional stable fiberglass backed vinyl flooring. The sole in this area is solid other than some ventilation and drain holes so the vinyl is easily supported. I plan to cut an access large enough to install a shower sump pump kit and then use the cutout piece of sole as the cover for the access hole by adding some support pieces under the sole and along the edges of the opening.

Has anyone cut an inspection door to this channel to be bale to get to the wires, etc.?

It's on my project list. I just haven't done it. I have removed the teak and holly plywood and use a piece of fiberglass backed vinyl in my galley area. The floor under the teak and holly plywood is solid other than a few drainage/ventilation holes.

I plan to cut some inspection holes, probably rectangular, then add some supports along the edges so I can just drop the original cutout piece back down.

Please post some pictures when you do yours.

[to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.]

<<< Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell.  Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn.  If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)>>

James just to clarify, you can see that I have it long enough that I could have used a longer hose (the Cu butts against the pump inlet.)  But I didn't. I doubt there's room on all the other hose nipples (Hx, etc) to double clamp and since it's not seawater..... I chose to replace just as Univ had it.

.

KWKloeber
Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't being critical. I like what you did. If I were starting over from scratch I'd do the same. I just couldn't tell from the picture if there was much of a nipple inside that hose.
James

Update on replacing the coolant hose elbows coming of the water pump.

Recap - The water pump discharge (front of engine and belt driven) is 1" ID hose fitting or most likely 25.4mm since everything else on the motor is metric. This hose runs from the water pump to the heat exchanger which has a 7/8" fitting. In order to make this run two 90 degree elbows are needed, so the hose has to reduce from 1" to 7/8" and make two 90 degree turns.

Most people seem to make the reduction from 1" to 7/8" in the second 90 degree turn going from the front to the side of the engine under the alternator. It seems impossible to find a barbed fitting to accept a 7/8" ID hose, so all of us seem to struggle coming up with some concoction of a fitting.

I like what Ken did by using 3/4" copper pipe and fitting to make both 90 degree elbows and then using a short piece of 1" hose from the water pump to the copper pipe. My only concern is that that there is very little fitting to apply a clamp. This could be resolved by soldering a coupling fitting over the end of the 3/4' pipe/tubing.

I've come up with two options using parts I already had on each of my engines (the one in the boat and the one I removed when I bought the boat). I will use one and leave the other on the boat as a spare.

First option uses two short pieces of 3/4" copper pipe, a 3/4" 90 degree elbow, and a 3/4" coupling. I made a 1" to 7/8" reducer/90 degree elbow. I will use the suggested Gates 20693 elbow radiator hose from the water pump to this fitting. Others have indicated that this Gates 20693 hose is 1" on one end and 7/8" on the other. Maybe that was the case in the past but it is 1" on both ends now. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/heater---bypass-hoses-16998/bypass-hose-11354/4879cd621d56/gates-hose/20693/4327345  A picture of this homemade fitting is attached. You will see that by adding the coupling over the 3/4" copper pipe I was able to get pretty close to the needed 1". The other end is a perfect tight fitting 7/8". And I've left the ends of the fittings long enough to apply 2 clamps if needed.

The second option uses a 3/4" brass threaded elbow, a 1" barbed fitting and then a copper male threaded fitting & 3/4" copper pipe/tubing for the 7/8" ID hose end. It's a bit bulky but will work. Picture also attached.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for the picture validation of using soldered copper fittings. I've been using a 90 degree fitting since installing the M25 about 4 years ago. It's worked flawlessly but soldered joints have worried me so I thought I'd try to locate a brass 90 degree elbow with 7/8" barbs. No luck so far. I will go back with what I have and new hoses if I can't find the elbow. Thanks again!
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell.  Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn.  If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155

James,

I edited your post to clarify the quote and your response.

Brass is not a suitable material for that application, or any on a boat for that matter.

Good thing you didn't. 

Thanks, my bad. Yes, Bronze not brass.

Just an update, Today it was warm enough to test the unit. The inside of the boat was 83 degrees and it took 35 minutes to lower the temp to 72. The rear cabin cooled very quickly, the head cooled but not nearly as quick, the main salon was the temp tested and the v birth was the slowest. The v birth was very bright as no blinds were used. If I close the door on both births I cannot hear the unit just the fan noise thru the vent. Main salon has the most noise. I can still adjust the fan speed for each of the 6 fan speed levels, I will leave it on the factory setting for the time being. Also I can set the fan to always be running while the unit is on or stop when the temp is achieved. Installer recommends to have the fan always running.

Where are you located? The 12k AC sounds a little undersized for the Southeast. My boat came with a 12k that didn't work. The PO said it really struggled on hot days so I went with a 16k BTU unit which was the largest physical size I could get in the locker under the port side couch. A PO had removed the holding tank and located the HVAC unit there. My only complaint is the noise, but it's better than the alternative of being too hot.

I do like your refrigeration unit in the locker on the starboard side. I will eventually need to replace mine which is currently located in the lazarette hatch. It's too far away from the frig/freezer and too inaccessible.

Congrats on the installation. You did a great job routing that duct to the forward and aft cabins.

James

I ordered this.  Works great. Even bought a spare.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2UA6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rob

Rob,
Thanks much for the link to Amazon. I found this hose at O'Reilly's, but it's a couple bucks less on Amazon. I ordered it this morning.
James

Jim

20 yrs ago I eliminated the 1" to 7/8" and fabbed the fitting below at the dock using copper sweat fittings.  It is an old pic (old alt mount, not what you need -- but it shows the idea.) The OD of 3/4" tubing is close to 7/8" and the OD of the hub end of sweat fittings is close to 1".  You can make a similar 90" elbow, 7/8" to 7/8".

Or search for a "long turn" copper elbow (see link:)
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3510.msg46481.html#msg46481

Thanks for the picture validation of using soldered copper fittings. I've been using a 90 degree fitting since installing the M25 about 4 years ago. It's worked flawlessly but soldered joints have worried me so I thought I'd try to locate a brass 90 degree elbow with 7/8" barbs. No luck so far. I will go back with what I have and new hoses if I can't find the elbow. Thanks again!
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell.  Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn.  If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155

Does anyone have a good source for the 90 degree metal elbow fitting used to join the 7/8" hose just above the oil filter? See attached photo in the circle. While I'm asking, I'm also looking for the 90 degree rubber hose coming off the water pump. See attached photo indicated by the arrow.