Topics

I have two Sherwood raw water impellers for sale that I had on my M25XP if anyone interested, email me: "glennoli@verizon.net"

I switched to an Oberdorfer pump, and had these as spares.  I have the old pump too with shaft, too.

Tom

I was about to bight the bullet and get new Plexiglas deadlights for the main cabin, as mine had become "foggy" since I last replaced them... going on 9 years ago. I decided to try one last thing before going that route: Headlight Cleaner!!
I picked up a kit in the Automotive section of Mothers Headlight Restorer. It contains a bottle of liquid cleaner, buffing towel, small squares of wet sandpaper, and an applicator ball that affixes to a drill.

I washed the outside plexiglas, and then used the liquid cleaner with the applicator on my electric drill... and after buffing with the cloth, they looked almost like new!  The kit cost about $22, and there is enough liquid for probably 4 applications.
Something to consider when the regular washing just doesn't seem to do the trick any more!

Does anyone have experience with the 2-part product you pour around the mast, in place of wooded wedges?  Just wondering if it is as good as they say.

My stick comes out every season for winter storage.

here is something to lookout for:
I finally launched this past weekend (another lovely spring in New England!) and while motoring from Mattapoisett to Onset across Buzzards Bay, I noticed water rising in the bilge. I bailed, and continued on my way, after searching all the usual suspects (sea cocks, muffler, engine hoses, heat exchanger, etc.)
The next day I returned to the boat to find the bilge almost full again with water.  After bailing as much as possible, I sponged all as best I could, noting that the sea cocks, etc. were intact.
Peering into the aftermost compartment near the hot water tank with flashlight, I noticed water rickling down from the starboard side into that bilge area.  I then removed the deep draw in the galley area, and discovered the fresh water strainer that was mounted out of sight (and mind) just streaming away with a water leak.. even though the water pressure switch was off.  I had the rear tank manifold open, so I closed it, and the leak stopped.  I removed the housing from the fixture, and applied some Teflon tape to the threads, reattached and the leak was no more.  usually something like this would go undetected... just the aggravation of always water in the bilge, but coincidentally, my bilge pump decided to die at the same time. I did have a new one to swap out, and the leak ended my procrastination.
Something to check when you seem to not be able to find the nuisance leak...

Well, it was a lovely day on Buzzard Bay Saturday, as I motored from Onset Harbor to Mattapoisett for my haul.  After hanging on a mooring while I finished up stripping sails,etc. so the mast could be hauled, I pressed the starter and there was nothing!  Knowing I had plenty of juice in the batteries, I suspected the starter button, so I pulled the panel, and found everything to be fine.  Going below, I discovered that the wire exiting the fuse holder at the end away from the starter had corroded off.  I stripped some bare wire, cut the fuse holder off and did the same at that end, attached my trusty "jumper wire" I keep in my tool box, and she fired right up.

Now the question is.... what size wire should be used for this when I reinstall the fuse holder?  The schematic in the engine manual says a "#6" but the wire that was there with the fuse holder looks to be no more than 14 Ga.     I picked up an in-line fuse holder at an automotive store with 12 ga wires and it certainly looks more substantial than what was on the engine.
Slow Dance is an '87 with an M25XP.

your thoughts and empirical wisdom would be much appreciated!

Having rebuilt the exhaust riser this spring on Slow Dance, my '87 I was delighted when I fired up the engine for the first time and discovered the new pipe nice and tight, and the engine running at about 150 or so temp-wise.  I was not delighted to see the stream of water coming from whan apears to be at the base if the exhaust inlet tube.  I reasoned that after 20 years, time for a new one.

I did my due dilligence and perused the many postings regarding muffler replacement.

When I contacted Catalina parts depatment, they told me it would be approximately two weeks at the earliest before I would receive my new muffler.... AFTER they receive the drawing / dimensions of the old one. 
I was wondering... has anyone used any mufflers OTHER than the Catalina offering?  Also, do you think it would be worth the effort to remove the old muffler, and try a reglassing around the suspected area(s)?

I noticed Ron Hill was apprehensive about this kind of "fix" .... but has any of you others done this with any kind of success?

I just hate the thought of not having a muffler for at least 3 weeks or more.

Your input is appreciated.  Fair winds from Buzzards Bay!!

Just a little steam-letting:
I placed an order for a hump host through Catalina Yachts, with the request it be shipped to me 2nd day air, as I am on the East Coast, and wanted the hump hose for Thursday evening.  Deliveries came and went, and no hump hose.  I e-mailed Catalina 3 times asking for tracking Info, and still no response.
Perhaps I should have gone with Catalina Direct! Hopefully it will show up friday. I do need to get my hose changed, and thought I could sneak it in before the weekend, so I just might have the opportunity to spend Saturday on the bay, rather than in the bilge!

Here's a new one... while working on the plumbing of the hot water tank, to make sure all was nice and drip-free, I began to notice a very definate smell of "electrical cooking".  At first I thought perhaps the bilge pump/float, or perhaps the fresh water pump, but they were all fine.

I then moved into the head and opened the access door there, and definately detected a strong odor.
I immediately removed the access to the engine, and low-and-behold, discovered the alternator was HOT. Very HOT.... I immediately turned off the master DC switch. 
Earlier in the day I ran the engine for the first time after winter lay-up, and all apeared to function properly.

I later removed the alternator, when it was cool enough to handle.
I will be bringing it to my alternator shop for diagnosis... but just wondered if anyone else ever had a similar problem? 

While changing the boots on the ends of my spreaders, I noticed the piece they are mounted too had some "wiggle" .  I also noticed that the trailing end of the port fitting had a little crack, but nothing that apears to affect the integrity of the support.
I did a search here, and discovered that the "mounting metal" to which the spreaders are affixed is just slid right through the mast.... so I really should not be concerned that there is "wiggle" while the mast is unstepped.  I will just clean and replace the sealant that was around where it enters the mast.
Am I correct in assuming that I should not be concerned?

Ge entlemen: I am planning on installing port and starboard bow cleats this spring.  8" like on my old 30. Would you suggest I but them from Catalina, or does anyone know of a better supplier? I saw the posting frm Ron Hill, and plan on a similar installation.

Being the proud owner of a magnificent 1987 Standard rig, fin keel, I would like to make her perform as best she can as she dances across Buzzards Bay on a fresh breeze, without interfering too with my re-hydration.

With that said, I'd like to upgrade my mainsheet blocks, as my sailing partner did and continually reminds me of how effortless his trimming has become.  I did up grade the traveler a couple of years ago to the new Garhauer 6:1 and it did make the world of difference.  SO, if I contact Garhauer, and just request a set of SL mainsheet blocks for my 34, will that be sufficient... or do I need to tell them specifically the blocks that I need?  Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Also, If I request a rigid boom vang, are there any "package deals" available, as there are for 30 owners?
Happy Hollidays to all !

Gentlemen: This past Spring, prior to splash, I had my raw water pump (Sherwood) rebuilt, as I noticed a lot of white salt deposits on the engine block and motor mount. While I was at it, I changed out the thermostat and cleaned and reconditioned the heat exchanger.  All went together well, yet I am still seeing that white tell tale sign of a weeping water pump.

I used a paper gasket material (one layer)  would two layers work? Or, should I just bite the bullet and buy a NEW water pump (Oberdorfer perhaps?)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Gentlemen:  Last Fall, when the boat was hauled and powerwashed, I was not present, and the person wielding the washer took some of the waterline paint on the aft port side of the boat.  As it was not too accommodating this past spring weather-wise, I decided to launch as is, and deal with the issue this haul-out.   
My hull is a light cream color, with dark blue waterline stripe.  Have any of you folks dealt with a similar situation?  The rest of the stripe is in wonderful condition.... I'd just hate to tape off an area, repaint it, and have it stick out like the proverbial sore thumb.  Slow Dance is otherwise a very attractive vessel.

[Does anyone know of a good source for one?]

Greetings from Buzzards Bay!

While checking my engine compartment last evening, I noticed an odd sound, and discovered that my alternator bracket had snapped just below where the tightening nut is on the engine.  I have a 1987 model, with M25XP.
Hansen Marine in Marblehead (the local distributor) is out of stock. Does anyone know of a good source for one?
I am having the broken one I have welded as a quick-fix, as I am leaving for Martha's Vinyard bright and early Thursday.
One thing I will add, due to the broken bracket, the alternator was able to wobble considerably, causing the hole through which the tightening bolt passes, to elongate.  Hence, the new bracket (approximately $19) cost me an alternator for $200!

Gentlemen: Slowdance, 1987 #354 was launched this week and I have found a couple of problems with my guages.

This winter I rebuilt the raw water pump, and did the maintanance on the heat eexchanger while I was at it.  This weekend I fired up the engine, and it ran like new with a really strong flow of water out the exhaust from the rebuilt pump.... except the temp guage began to push 200 degrees, so I shut down and let it cool a while.  When I restarted, I opened the bleed valve at the thermostat to burp the system, which was sucessful, and the temp fell but then began to climb again.  I shut down again and replaced the thermostat, which seemed to cure that problem.  As the engine was running, I then checked all the hoses for any leaks on the water pump, and the heat exchanger; all was nice and dry.  Now I noticed the tach acting really erratic, so I shut down, and discovered the wire at the alternator was about to part, so I refitted a new connector and that solved the problem, but now my temperature guage is not working at all. Neither is the fuell guage.  Any suggestions out there?  I'm thinking I may need to replace the sending unit at the thermostat housing. I checked all the connections at the cockpit panel, and all seems secure, as was the wireing on the fuel tank.

Aside from these minor setbacks, I am looking forward to a great season!   

Gentlemen:  A little bug in my ear kept telling me: "Change the tranny fluid.... change the tranny fluid"  so, I dove in began what I thought would be a reather straight forward operation; I discovered that to remove the dipstick, I had to remove the heat exchanger, as the cradle-to-dipstick clearance was not sufficient to raise it out. Having searched various postings here, I also thought it might be good to change some hoses as well, since my vessel is a 1987 vintage, with M25XP, and the hoses have the original paint on them.  Preventive maintenance!

Here is my dilemma: I was able to suction out 8 ounces of fluid from the transmission housing.  Proir to removal, the dipstick was giving me a reading well over the ring on the lower portion that is the full indication.  I then put the new fluid into the housing, until I got a reading to the ring.  There is nothing I can find that gives the proper fluid amout in ounces anywhere.  I jsut want to make sure I am replenishing with an adequate amount. 

The tranny was functioning without any problems whatsoever, but I just wanted to be sure the fluid was clean and fresh.  The old fluid seemed to be a little thicker than the newer, as well as a little darker in color, but no sediments of any kind.  SHould I have been able to remove more than 8 ounces of fluid? Should I remove what I put in, and remeasure? The heat exchanger was clean, no deposits to mention, other than a couple of old fins from a past impellor, and a very little seaweed strands. I will clean it up, repaint it and replace the gaskets and zinc. Then, with the new hoses, All should be well. 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Gentlemen: here is a little fyi regarding DEPCO Pumps Company:  I found the personnel to be very helpful, and they had the parts I needed for my Sherwood M5 waterpump which, by the way, Sherwood themselves no longer carried. The only thing I would like to caution all of you about is... if you can obtain a part locally from a bearing shop, etc., do so! The rebuilding of the pump calls for two lip seals.  DEPCO sent me one... for $19 and change.  I obtained the second one form a local bearing supply company for $5.25! Ouch.  But, at least the DEPCO company had the all-important shaft, and the carbon bushing that was necessary.

Help!  Looking for a stanless shaft for my sherwood water pump off my 1987 M25XP.

I have the pump in the shop for a rebuild, as I noticed weeping prior to hauling in the fall.
The shop has informed me that SHerwood no longer stocks the shaft for that pump, as ithas ben replaced with a newer version. I just hate to have to buy a new pump, when the one I have is fine, except for the wear on the shaft, and some new seals.  Anyone have a source for pump shafts? So I don't have to get shafted by buying a completely new pump? 

Thanks in advance, aboard Slow Dance in Buzzards Bay, MA

Gentlemen: my lovely vintage '87 yacht has an M25XP with a Sherwood raw water pump.

While perusing a publication, I came across an interesting article that described a particular kind of "weeping" that is common on Sherwood pumps when it is time for them to be rebuilt.  I do believe I am a candidate for rebuilding, and I am curious if the Oberdorfer pump is a direct swap-out for the Sherwood, and also would like any feed back as to weather one is perferred over the other. This will be another of my winter projects!

Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Gentlemen:
Tom here from Buzzards Bay, wondering if anyone has come across a good supplier for the SHerwood Impeller Model# 10077. For some reason, mine disintegrated the other day at a most inopertune time (of course!)

I'd like to get a couple of spares and gaskets.  Also, has anyone doen a "Major Rebuild" of their raw water pump? This may be the mystery to my earlier post regarding "whitish deposits" on the engine block. I am wondering if my pump gasket (where the pump mates to the block) may be somewhat compromised.

Thanks in advance... smooth sailing!

Gentlemen: Help me solve my mystery!

As I look at my engine (M25XP) from inside the cabin, facing aft, there has what appeared to be white residue in streaks on the starboard side of the block.  I thoroughly checked the raw water pump and hoses, the impeller gasket, and all possible suspects, to no avail.  I took a small wire brush to the area, removing any noticeable flaking engine paint.  I then ran the engine up to temperature with no apparent leaks.  I then pushed the throttle up to about 2500 R.P.M. for about 5 minutes or so, and still all remained dry.

After washing the block , etc. with a light detergent and rinsing/drying, I sprayed the exposed metal with an engine paint.

The next time I looked, a couple of days later, there appeared to be a couple of drops of salty-tasting water in the engine well under the  block, yet when I ran the engine, no leaking.  I am stumped.

My engine runs like a top, and the impeller has been changed yearly.

Any clue as to what could be the cause?  I must say, the Sherwood impeller cover has taken on a lovely verdigris patina.... perhaps an earlier leak that has sealed?

Thanks in advance.

This is a great site for sure! While looking at the "eye nuts" on the projects page, I noticed the partial image of the overhead opening hatch in the head.  Ron, did you replace the vent with the opening hatch?

I have thought about replacing my 4" vent with an opening hatch, but wasn't sure.  My hull number is 354, 1987 Mark I.

Gentlemen:

I am looking for a referral here... I have an '87 with a 1" shaft and want to replace my cutlass bearing WITHOUT having to remove my shaft.  I am located in Onset, Massachusetts, and wonder if any of the New England sailors know where I could rent the tool required to press out the old bearing.  I have already removed the two set-screws located P&S on the strut, as well as removed the prop.   The yard, when asked how much it would cost me, went into a song and dance about 4-6 hours, if the set screws come out, etc. etc.  Thanks in advance.

Gentlemen:

I just bought a new set of Garhauer traveler cars from a gentleman in the cat 36 Association.

I am assuming (I know, we never should!) that the traveler cars for the 36 is the same for the 34's.  My 1987 vintage cars are terrible under load, and these new 6:1 sure look beautiful.

My question is: have any of you out there made the switch and was it a simple swap out? Also, how long a line for each side... 16 feet or so?

Thanks in advance.  Just trying to do something to get in the sailing mood up here in the Northeast!!

During my inspection on Saturday, I also noticed a brownish tinted trail of moisture from the underside of the passive vent in the head roof... I had covered the exterior of this passive vent with a plastic sheet and duct taped it, thinking that this would make it "weather tight", as I noticed this problem last winter.  Obviously, water is getting in around the plastic ring that goes thru the cabin top. Anyone else having this problem?

Has anyone swapped this passive vent with a small opening hatch, similar to the ones on the newer boats? I have a 1987 Mark I.

This is not an issue during the season, as the dodger protects this area from moisture.

This weekend I went to the boat to just have a little look around while it is stored for the winter.

Upon entering the main cabin, I was amazed at the amount of moisture droplets accumulated on the headliner... it was soaked! In the vee birth area it was actually frosted.  I proceeded to wipe the entire interior down from vee birth to aft cabin.  Also, I opened the hatches and ports to allow for as much ventilation as possible.  The day was cold... upper 30's, but nice and dry, with a little breeze.

I have never had this problem in the past, and I guess my question is, could all of this condensation be attributed to our rapidly changing temperatures recently... it went from 30's to 60+ degrees in a 24 hour period and then back to the 20-30's again in the following 12 to 24 hours.

The dorade vents are opened, as well as the passive vent in the aft cabin, with door open  for flow-thru ventilation.

Any suggestions?

This weekend I had the opportunity to check out "Slowdance" my 1987 vintage 34, after being hauled for the Winter.  During my inspection of the hull, I detected a hairline crack aft of the shaft strut about 5 inches back, running port to starboard, on the rounded part of the "skeg".  What brought it to my attention, was the presence of water droplets, which I thought were coming from the crack. Later, before leaving, the area seemed to dry, no drops.

I scraped away the bottom paint about two inches either side of the crack, felt the shaft strut.... which appeared to be tight with no movement.

My question is... has anyone else experienced anything like this? Does this crack warrant grinding out? Just hate the thought of having to grind thru the gelcoat... but will do if necessary.

Gentlemen: When winterizing my engine this weekend, I noticed there was a whitish area on the engine block behind and below the Sherwood water pump , also, the impeller cover seemed to have that "verdigris" look to it which makes me suspect there may be a leak in the gasket of the pump to the engine block.

I did change the impeller a year ago, and replaced that gasket when I did, making sure to clean the mating surfaces thoroughly.

I guess my question is... if I were to take the pump housing off the block, what should I be aware (leery) of??

Thanks in advance for any input.

Gentlemen:

Have any of you owners of the Mark I '34 replaced your traveler cars with the Garhauer upgrade you see in the back of the Mainsheet?

AS the owner of hull #354, I have found the traveler to ne almost impossible to raise/lower when under a load of say 15 kts. or stronger.

Would love some feedback, & comments.

   Best regards from Buzzards Bay!

Greeting from Buzzards Bay!

Has anyone experienced this problem:  My manual bilge pump, located in the cockpit on my 1987 does not/did not "suck" when I stroked the handle.  Usually the is the initial quick strokes that seems to get the flow going, then more rhythmic full strokes until the bilge is empty.  

I checked the obvious to see if there was any cracks in the rubber, it didn't apear to be compromised.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.... I don't like to have to rely on the electric pump alone!

Happy & safe sailing!

This weekend when I started the engine (M25XP) on my 1987 34, the tach remained on "0" for about five minutes or so, then began to function as usual.  It happened later in the day as well.  Anyone had similar problems with their tachs? Any recommendations?

Has anyone added cleats to the port/starboard sides of the bow?  I have a 1987 Mark I, with the mooring cleat located centerline right behind the furling drum.  This is really not idea when anchoring or with the mooring line.... would be nice to put one on either toe rail, as was on my cat 30.

Gentlemen:  I have an older Magellan Meridian XL gps, and am looking for the mounting bracket and an external power plug.

I have contacted the company, to no avail.  Wondering if any association members have an old one lying around and would like to unload it.  If so, please contact me at: tglennon@winprint.com

Thanks!

I need some advise.... I just got the port and starboard windows cut for my 1987 boat, and will have them beveled at a cabinet maker...

What do you recomend I use to scuff up the surface to be mated with the caulking.  It looks like maybe a 60 grit sandpaper will do the trick... any suggestions by those that have "been there, done that?"

To all who have contributed to the Projects listed on this site, I just want to express my sincerest appreciation. Slow Dance (354) is really shaping up this Spring!

I undertook a couple of the projeccts: Galley Drain replumbing (while I had the sink removed to replace the water heater) Teak steps for the swim ladder, and the most rewarding was the refinishing of the Interior steps with the black caulking.

Thanks to all of you out there willing to share your ideas and improvements!

Greetings from Boston! I'm looking for some sggestions as to how one removes the metal vents port and starboard for the bilge vents.

My '87 will look really great when I get these re-chromed, only problem is - how do they come out!

I removed the three philips screws, taped all around with a thin blade to break the seal of the adhesive/caulk all around the bottom where it meets the deck.  The port vent seems to be hinged on either side, pivoting fore and aft...

I hope one of you "vintage" 34 owners have a solution for me.
Thanks in advance for your input.

Happy Winter everone!
AAAs one of my winter projects, I need to rebuild the two burners on the top of my HilleRange Alcohol Stove w/oven.  I was wondering if any of you have replaced your alcohol stoves, and still have the tubing with the two burner elements hanging around your garage or basements.  I would be very interested in helping you clear out this item if you do, rather than try and have a plumber fabricate something!

Thanks, and happy sailing!

Happy New Year to all!

As one of my winter projects, I just replaced the rusting Raritan hot water heater w/heat exchanger on my 1987 (354) catalina.

After having reconnected the heat exchanger hoses, it occured to me that I probably need to bleed the system.... has anyone else done this swapout? Any comments or suggestions?

Well, we just purchased hull #354, and believe it or not, it has no stereo!  Any advice as to where a good place would be to install? I was thinking about the shelf area next to the nav station.

Any suggestions for speaker placement in the cockpit?  As this is a Mark 1, without the rail seats, I was thinking perhaps in the coaming area, port and starboard.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Gentlemen... and ladies..... now that I am an official member of the organization, i'm afraid you'll be seeing quite a bit of me for a while.... hopefully I'll be able to contribute as well, but for now..... HELP!! I know the dinette table lowers on the piston, but is it also supposed to be able to be lifted off the post?

I'd really like to replace it with a smaller "cocktail" top for the many occaissions we entertain below.  Thanks in advance for your replys!  and HAPPY and SAFE 4th!!!

I am in the process of purchasing a 1987 Catalina 34, which is in good codition, with the exception of the crazing of ALL the ports. I would like to replace all the opening port "glass".  It looks as though the hardware easily unscrews.  Has anyone encountered this problem, and where might I get the replacements?

I also will replace the non-opening ports, which I assume would be available through Catalina.

Thanks in advance for your replys.