Electronic Fuel Pump

[Tad.beagley]

First off, I want to say that a good deal of value i see in my 1988 tall rig wing keel is due to this organization, and the incredible amount of info provided, and expertise of members!

This is my second year with the boat, and so far have been able to fix a broken gear shift cable, starter issues with new fuse, along with several other small fixes while getting it ready this past winter.

The day after I was reveling in my success of fixing the starter issue, I went to bring the boat in to the dock to bring a group out for a sail, and the starter turned over great....but the engine would not catch :0

After filling up the fuel (fuel gauge does not work, just keep filling it up. It's on the list) I switched out both the racor and fuel filter thinking that perhaps it was full of sediment or loosing suction from old o rings..still would not start. I then thought that perhaps the electronic fuel pump was broken (though I could still hear it pumping, thought perhaps the diaphragm broke internally) so I replaced it. I was about to buy a $140 replacement from Catalina Direct, with a $40 shipping fee when I read about the NAPA pump, which was available at my local store and for only $60!

I fitted the new pump on, and after some messing around ( loosening the fuel filter once, and loosening that valve by the fuel line located after it comes from the filter going into the heads) it started right up.

I let it run for 15 minutes because the batteries where low from cranking it over previously. Turned it off, and started it again just to make sure.

I promptly made myself a celebratory dark 'n stormy, congratulated myself one again for besting an issue with the guidance of this site, and not hiring a mechanic, and took my inflatable in feeling quite smug.

Then yesterday, I went to take a few others out for a sunset cruise, held my breath as I pushed in the glow plugs and relaxed as she quickly fired up. Then, about 8 seconds later it started sounding choked, and it stalled again... I tried the ignition 3 more times but it would not catch. I then cracked the filter to see if fuel was getting in there and it started running out. I checked that valve (which all I can think is meant to bleed the system) and it was shut tight. Not remembering how it was at first I loosened it a turn or 2. Tried the ignition again and it started right up.

I canceled my sail (weather looked bad anyway) due to my nerves, and fear of it stalling again on my way into the dock with me singlehanded at the wheel. But then let it run for about a half hour with no hiccups.

Hoping for some clarity and peace of mind from the experts here on what happened, and if there is some other issue I'm not thinking of:

what is that valve and how should it be set?

The pump seemed to be working great, but I could not believe the gravity feed when I disconnected old pump (on my list to put a fuel shutoff as suggested this winter) and after reading some posts that the electric pump is not always necessary when tank is full, I'm not 100% confident that was my issue.

Pump seemed to be working, but seem a little warmer than I thought it should

Sorry for the novel, but any thoughts/guidance would be much appreciated!

Tad Beagley
North Star

[Jon W]

At the moment, the only valve in the fuel line on my 1987 is mounted directly on the fuel tank. It's a quarter turn on/off valve. So not sure which valve you're asking about. Do you have a photo of the valve you're asking about?

[Ron Hill]

Tad ; Take the bleed valve on the starboard side of your engine and leave it "cracked" open about 1/4 turn.  Then you'll have a self bleeding system.

A thought

[Jon W]

I was thinking you were talking about a valve between the Racor and the on engine fuel filter. Are you asking about the bleed valve that Ron suggested leaving slightly open?

[Ron Hill]

Guys : The "Butterfly" gate valve on the top of the fuel tank is a fuel cut off valve. 
It's unknown to most C34 owners because it's under the flooring of the port side lazerette and only accessible by removing the aft cabin port side panel or the Beckson port in the lazerette floor.

A few thoughts

[KWKloeber]

Ted

I cringe at asking the question for fear of chastisizm. But you speak of the bleed valve, which says "XP" to me (although I have an M-25 with the bleed knob.) nevertheless the XP didn't have an electronic pump OEM. If it's the Facet cylinder additioally there's no diaphragm, it's a mechanical "poppet" type pump.  What model did you replace it with?  A pic old/new?

Anyway, for SOME reason many report that the XP runs better with the bleed knob (valve) opened (partially or fully.)  But that's NOT universally so. AND it's not so on the C-30s with an XP, SO WHY it happens on the 34 is a mystery (in my mind anyway.).

The fuel plumbing is slightly different on the engines with the bleed knob, so I'd first guess that that difference has something to do with the phenomenon.  BUT as I said it doesn't manifest itself on the 30s. Maybe the relative heights of the engine/tank (which are different from the 30s) has some effect on the phenomenon??  Who knows?

There is an additional bleed screw (plug) on the secondary filter holder (at least reported to be in the manual) — I've never had to use it.

-ken

[Noah]

My XP runs great with the bleed/return valve 100% open.

[Paulus]

The electric Facet pump also has a filter in it.  Can be removed and cleaned or can be replaced.
Paul
PS:  Have you checked the pick up tube that goes into the tank.  Much has been written about this in past posts.