Rigging replacement

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crieders

Boat is 1990 tall rig kept in LI Sound for its entire life. Lightly used. The standing rigging looks good, so far as I can see it but should it be replaced for age reasons alone? And if so, what vendors are recommended?
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Jim Hardesty

Here is what I would do.  If you are planning a long open water cruise, Atlantic crossing, Bermuda, etc.  Change it.  If not then look at it yourself, any wear, split fittings, bent ends.  If so change it.  If it looks good to you have a good rigger inspect it.  That should include dye penetrant inspection of the swages for any cracks, swelling or corrosion.  That's the most likely point of failure. Or.  You could take Don Casey's advice in "This Old Boat" and learn to use dye penetrant yourself and/or replace the standing rigging using sta-loc or norseman fittings. 
What ever you do rigging is not a forever thing.  It should last a very long time, but should be closely inspected at least yearly.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Jon W

The risk is you can't always go by exterior appearance. I faced a similar issue with my standing rigging which was 20-30 years old based on a survey I had done when buying the boat. I was told there is no single rule however a rule of thumb is rigging should be changed every 15 years unless sailed in the tropics or sailed hard, then it should be every 10 years. I elected to change all my standing rigging and upgrade so all was 5/16".

My 2 cents is talk to your rigger if you suspect your rigging is original which is now ~27 years old.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Ron Hill

#3
Cliff : Beside all the advice above here is another thought.  Take some rides in a bowman's chair up/down  the rigging - Take pieces of Kleenex and slide it over all of the stainless 1/19 cable. 
If there is a crack or broken strand it will snag the tissue!!

Personally, I'd just change it after 27+ years!!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

When this topic comes up, one response is: "It's just like reefing:  If you think about doing it, you simply should."  :D :D :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

crieders

Any suggestions where to buy it; from whom?
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Ron Hill

Cliff : I went tot a local rigger/marine store.  I gave them the life lines at the end of a season and had them make me lines between Oct-March at their leisure.  Got a great reduction in price because they did it without a short deadline.
I also went for lines without the white vinyl covering.

A few thoughts

Ron, Apache #788

Jon W

I got parts from local marine stores, Catalina Direct, some new parts were custom made, but most were supplied by the rigger I hired. Is there a rigger you are comfortable with?
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Ron Hill

Guys: Just make sure that if you take on the life line task as a DIY, that you Swedge the line into fitting!! 

Crimping doesn't count!!

A safety thought
Ron, Apache #788

sailr4

Quote from: Ron Hill on January 11, 2018, 02:50:26 PM
Guys: Just make sure that if you take on the life line task as a DIY, that you Swedge the line into fitting!! 

Crimping doesn't count!!

Why do you think this.  Proper crimps have about 70% of the wire strength.  More than enough for lifelines. 

Rob Fowler,1989 C34 #889 Tall/Wing, M25XP - No Worries, Coronado, CA

I'd rather be in a boat with a drink on the rocks, than in the drink with a boat on the rocks.

pablosgirl

Hi,

We replaced our standing rigging 2 years ago before we took an extended cruse from Texas to the Bahamas.  The wire was 17-20 years old according to our rigger.  The rig inspection prior to the replacement found the port upper and stb. aft lower bottom swedges were cracked.  The rigger said that the cable is good for 20 years but it is the swedge fittings that fail first and in saltwater use, the rigging should be replace at 10 years and with mechanical fittings (sta-loc, norsman) longer based upon inspection.  He stressed yearly inspection after the first 3 years.

I shopped around after the rig inspection with APS, Catalania Direct, and two local riggers.  APS did not carry on of the wire sizes require, Catalina Direct had the best price but was in the process of tooling up for the C34 wire sizes but the lead time was going to delay the start of my trip.  Ultimately I went with the local rigger because of my time constraint.  If I was going to do it again today I would go with Catalina Direct because for the same money as the local rigger they provided sta-loc fittings on the bottom eyes and swedge fittings at the top ends. They also provided new the turnbuckles, so it was a pin-to-pin replacement.  My local rigger reuse my turnbuckles and the cable had swedge fittings on all ends. Cost was around $1800 for all the wire rigging including the furler wire

I would defiantly replace you rigging if it is that old.  If not for piece of mind then the cost of replacing your mast and rigging at your own expense.  Insurance companies consider wire rigging to be a wear item and if you do not do proper maintenance (inspections/replacement) they will not cover the loss.  One of my dock mates is fighting his insurance company over a failed chain plate that resulted in a total loss of his rig.   The insurance company said that they would not cover the loss since he had the original chain plates in a 29 year old boat and did not have documentation that they were inspected within 1 year of the loss.

Paul
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP