new owner many projects

[mdidomenico]

i recently completed the purchase of an 89 Catalina 34 wing keel (not sure yet if it's tall/std rig, didn't have a tape measure) hull number 856.  now that the purchase and move is complete, i can finally call her mine.  unfortunately, the vessel i purchased sat for a long time, besides the extensive bilge cleaning that will ensue, there are many projects i need to tackle.

the first is the stem fitting, mine's cracked.  so two questions.  first are the units available from catalina direct basically made by garhauer?  i read another post that said the ones ordered from catalina direct don't line up with the mast head correctly.  this worries me since the part is non-returnable, should i need another i'm out the money.  if they are made by garhauer should i just call them directly instead?  the second question is, how does it come off?  are the bolts through with nuts that i need to contort myself to get a wrench on, or are they screws?

the second immediate project is the chainplates and stanchions.  as expected during the survey, the moisture meter lit up around the chainplates and basically the whole 10-11ft from the forward most chainplate to about 2ft beyond the vented stanchions.  hammer sounding didn't seem to reveal any delamination, therefore i don't plan to pull up the deck.  but i visited the boat after a heavy rain and it's clear the vented stanchions and the chain plates leak a little.

i do however plan to pull the chainplates and several of stanchions in attempt to sort of dry out those areas and rebed them while i'm out for the winter.  my question is what would be recommended for covering over the holes through the winter (think snow, not just rain).  i was thinking something like gorilla tape, but i'm concerned it'll leave a sticky residue that'll get stuck in the non-skid. if it was flat i'd just lightly sand away the residue, but i don't want to do that on the non-skid

the boat is in pretty good shape overall, but since i plan to keep her for another 30 yrs hopefully, this is going to be pretty big re-fit.  more questions will ultimately come, but the website and forums have been a great resource.

here's a short list of most of the problems, just for anyone's morbid interest:

bilge was/is full of nasty diesel/oil/mold/icky water
has volt meter in the engine panel, but the wires/harness looks scary
not positive whether mine has the bad alternator bracket or not
only the volt meter and the temp gauge works, probably electrical
the vented stanchions leak, destroyed some wood interior and i believe corroded the electrical panel
fridge doesn't work (might be electrical)
macerator doesn't work (might be electrical)
pressure water pump doesn't work (might be electrical)
water heater is unknown
may replace the standing rigging (having it inspected, since the rig is down)
all the running rigging needs to be replaced (ropes are moldy, many sheaves broken)
new mainsail (p/o left it on the boat for years, birds nest inside)
the keel shows signs of a smile, not sure if its bad enough to warrant a fix
new cutlass bearing, might need a new shaft as well

i take lots of pictures, i'll post some soon and as i move things along.

[Stu Jackson]

Welcome. 

You have a hefty list of things to do.  In most cases, we have had the experience to be able to help you to avoid reinventing the wheel.

For example, Chainplate rebedding: 

Chainplate Rebedding 101 - with Bed It with Butyl from Maine Sail

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.msg49430.html#msg49430

You'll find that many of the issues you listed are covered in either the Critical Upgrade and/or the "101 Topics."  Additional specific questions, such as the ones you raised, can and usually are answered, both separately by other respondents or in those references. 

In your case, I have no idea what I would use to cover the holes, because I would try to not have ANY of the holes open for any longer than necessary to rebed the particular item.  Leaving them open during the winter will not dry them out.  So I would plan to open one, cut out the wet core, epoxy the hole, redrill, and immediately rebed with butyl tape.  (Buy it from Maine Sail - see the 101 Topics).

I haven't had any experience personally with the foredeck fitting, remember reading some about it.  Garhauer is always great to deal with, CD is OK but not as good on a personal basis.  Both are great sources of material.

Good luck, we'll all get to help you with your list, item by item.

[Jon W]

I replaced the bow roller and stemhead fitting with a heavier duty custom setup. Unfortunately I can't help with the manufacturer of the OEM stemhead fitting, but can with how it was originally attached on my 1987 MK1.

The stemhead fitting is welded to the small bow roller and extends behind the aluminum extrusion holding the vinyl rub strip where it attached to the bow. The screws attaching the stemhead fitting along the chine of the bow are through bolted with an aluminum backing plate, washers, lock washers, and nuts on the inside of the hull. The screws attaching the bow roller to the top deck are also through bolted with an aluminum backing plate, washers, lock washers, and nuts on the inside of the hull.

Access to the nuts is through the small beckson deck plate inside the anchor locker on the forward surface. I removed the whole beckson deckplate not just the screwed in cover to get more room. If you drop anything in there no worries. It can be recovered by going under the v-berth through the removable covers.

With all screws removed mine did not just come off. It was captured by that aluminum extrusion. I had to grind the back of the extrusion with a dremel tool being careful not to damage the hull. Eventually it came off but with a slight bend. To install my new thicker fitting I ended up cutting a section of the extrusion the width of the stemhead fitting so it could be installed. If you purchase an OEM replacement, even though thinner material I think you will have a similar problem re-installing so keep that in mind. Hope this helps.

[Mas Tequila]

Congratulations on your new boat.

Both of our vented stanchions also were leaking, the starboard side water tank vent was just an annoying drip but the port side waste tank vent was another issue. The core under that stanchion was rotted and we had to cut out a small section of the deck under the stanchion and using a bent nail on a drill were able to remove the rotted core, luckily the bad core didn't extend very far. We then repaired the area using epoxy and glass mat bringing it level with the deck. We then drilled the holes for the mounting bolts using an oversize bit, filled those holes with thicken epoxy and the re-drilled the holes using the proper size bit. We chamfered the holes and bedded a new non-vented stanchion using butal tape we purchased from Mainsail (great stuff). We purchased our new non-vented stanchions from Catalina Direct for $71.00 each and are very pleased with them. We then re-routed our vents though new through hull vents place just under the rubrail which was a piece of cake to do.

After reading Mailsail's page on re-bedding stanchions we went ahead and re-bedded all of our stanchions. We removed all of them and drilled out the mounting holes using Mailsail's technique, epoxy filled them in an afternoon. Next day drilled out the holes using the proper size bit and bedded the stanchions with butal tape which only took a couple of hours to all of them.

Here is Mailsail's page on re-bedding deck hardware.....pure gold

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/bedding-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/

[Noah]

MAS-Did you use backing plates?

[britinusa]

When I cleaned up the chain plates on Eximius, I brought them home one at a time, so that left 3 holes in the deck for at least a day (and this is South Florida in the Rainy Season)

I waterproofed them with a big lump of Butyl Tape after applying a couple of layers of Gorilla tape below deck (to stop the butyl from sagging in the heat of the day) worked like a charm.

If I were needing to cover the holes for a longer period I would probably do the same thing but with some Gorilla Tape over the butyl to prevent it getting grotty from surface dirt that would accumulate.

Paul

[scgunner]

   I hope you got a great deal.

[mdidomenico]

The stemhead fitting is welded to the small bow roller and extends behind the aluminum extrusion holding the vinyl rub strip where it attached to the bow. The screws attaching the stemhead fitting along the chine of the bow are through bolted with an aluminum backing plate, washers, lock washers, and nuts on the inside of the hull. The screws attaching the bow roller to the top deck are also through bolted with an aluminum backing plate, washers, lock washers, and nuts on the inside of the hull.

Access to the nuts is through the small beckson deck plate inside the anchor locker on the forward surface. I removed the whole beckson deckplate not just the screwed in cover to get more room. If you drop anything in there no worries. It can be recovered by going under the v-berth through the removable covers.

I don't believe mine attaches in quite the same way.  my bow roller is not integrated, the stem fitting and the bow roller are two different pieces.  when i go back down to the boat i'll have to see if there is a portal in the anchor locker, i can't recall from memory.  but it makes sense there would be nuts and a backing plate.  so hopefully it wont be "that" hard to get off.

[mdidomenico]

Both of our vented stanchions also were leaking, the starboard side water tank vent was just an annoying drip but the port side waste tank vent was another issue. The core under that stanchion was rotted and we had to cut out a small section of the deck under the stanchion and using a bent nail on a drill were able to remove the rotted core, luckily the bad core didn't extend very far. We then repaired the area using epoxy and glass mat bringing it level with the deck. We then drilled the holes for the mounting bolts using an oversize bit, filled those holes with thicken epoxy and the re-drilled the holes using the proper size bit. We chamfered the holes and bedded a new non-vented stanchion using butal tape we purchased from Mainsail (great stuff). We purchased our new non-vented stanchions from Catalina Direct for $71.00 each and are very pleased with them. We then re-routed our vents though new through hull vents place just under the rubrail which was a piece of cake to do.

After reading Mailsail's page on re-bedding stanchions we went ahead and re-bedded all of our stanchions. We removed all of them and drilled out the mounting holes using Mailsail's technique, epoxy filled them in an afternoon. Next day drilled out the holes using the proper size bit and bedded the stanchions with butal tape which only took a couple of hours to all of them.

Here is Mailsail's page on re-bedding deck hardware.....pure gold

I'm hoping my deck isn't too bad, but the vented stanchion for the holding tank definitely leaked a lot, it destroyed the wood above the electrical panel.  even though it's naive i'm hopeful that the water just ran through and didn't have time to actually soak in the plywood.  but i suspect at least on this side i'll probably have to do the same.

i also plan to switch out the vented stanchions with the non-vented ones.  and rebed all the other stanchions as well with butyl and add G10 backing plates.

and yes i agree mainesail's articles are great, i've been through them before with my previous boat and even still have some butyl from my first order with him.  have to order some more...

[mdidomenico]

   I hope you got a great deal.

i believe i did.  i was specifically looking for a boat where the hull was in good shape but the interior lacked.  i think i found such a boat.  i have a lot more time then upfront money, so price was definitely an issue.  but i also plan to keep this boat for 10-15yrs at least.  i'm happy i came across this boat, i bought it from the original owners and it's mostly original inside and out as far as i can tell.  i have a good deal of skills to do most of the refit work myself, so hopefully i'll end up with a really sound boat that i know inside and out over the long run.

[Jon W]

If they are separate that will make it a little easier. Replacing it with 3/8" thick SST complicates it further. Hopefully yours is easier than mine was.

[mregan]

Sounds like you and I purchased the same boat. Mine was original owner, hull and engine sound.  Chainplate leaks, vented stanchion leaks.  Smelly bilge, cushions stuck to high heaven, floor was scratched and waterstained.

My vented stanchions leaked so bad I had to replace all the countertops due to water damage and rot.  Also the bottom half of the bulkhead separating the head and nav table. 

The deck around the vented stanchions were not too bad.  The port side had some rot that I scraped out and filled with epoxy but other than that, the deck was okay.  So maybe you'll get lucky and will have mostly pass-through water.  If that's the case, check your countertops.

Like someone mentioned above, if you remove the chainplates, you can cover the holes with butyl tape.  It will be easy to pull up in the spring.

[Mas Tequila]

Noah, yes we added backing plates.