Penetrants. Lubricants, and Protectants

[KWKloeber]

Stu Jackson:

--- Quote from: Bill Shreeves on Today at 07:21:38 AM ---Stu - As you suggested, I'll leave the gearbox unpainted and use Boeshield T9 to protect it.  I'll also use it to protect my new stuffing box as suggested on another site.  I'm assuming your dislike of silicone is in reference to silicone caulk as a sealant?

--- End quote ---

Silicone can be a good sealant.  I just rebedded my traveler track after 16 or 17 years, not too bad, right?  Wrong.  Silicone is a bear to remove.  If I used butyl tape 17 years ago, I would not have had to redo it, it would still be dry down below.

Port gaskets?  Ask the vendors: Beckson and Lewmar.  The Beckson website is full of very good info.

Bill Shreeves:
WOW! did that take a left turn and go 'round the block...  All good stuff guys, I learn so much every time I read a post or ask a question.

Stu - As you suggested, I'll leave the gearbox unpainted and use Boeshield T9 to protect it.  I'll also use it to protect my new stuffing box as suggested on another site.  I'm assuming your dislike of silicone is in reference to silicone caulk as a sealant?

Ken - I used a liberal amount of 50/50 Tranny Fluid/Acetone as a penetrating oil on my prop and coupling a week before attempting removal.  I was somewhat careful not to get the mix on the tranny I am removing and anything else.  I've read a number of times that mix is much more effective as a penetrating oil than most off-the shelf penetrating oils including WD40, PB Blaster and Kroil.

Breakin' Away - So, I just looked up the WD40 Ingredients and it looks like the predominant ingredient is mineral oil.  Either way, I've not been a fan of WD40 for two reasons.  1. I've never thought it was a very good penetrating oil 2. I hate the way it smells and it seems to linger forever.   The last thing I want to do is introduce yet another smell on the boat and will try alternatives.  With that in mind, would mineral oil be useful in restoring port gaskets?

Stu Jackson:

--- Quote from: Breakin Away on Yesterday at 04:55:17 PM
Where did you find the mineral oil contents re WD40?  Link please?

K


---.
--- Quote from: Stu Jackson on Yesterday at 10:28:35 AM ---No need to paint it, Bill. Paint traps heat, right?   But throw away the WD40.  I think of it as silicone (only place to use it is on the Beckson ports).  Get Boeshield T9 for that use, and PB Blaster to remove stubborn nuts & bolts.

[KWKloeber]

Where did you find the mineral oil contents re WD40?
  Link ple ase?

kk

[KWKloeber]

I've seen one comparison.  And a lot of anecdotal and retweeting those. Did you see other tests?

The difference in how well they work may be due to percentages of the constituents mixed?  For the record ATF is mineral oil with red dye and minor additives (the lubrication portion of the potion.) The acetone gets into the microscopic crevices.

If one doesn't work try the next and so on.  I've never tried the ATF potion but have PB, CRC, WD Specialist, 3 in 1, etc. brands.

kk

Ken - I used a liberal amount of 50/50 Tranny Fluid/Acetone as a penetrating oil on my prop and coupling a week before attempting removal.  I was somewhat careful not to get the mix on the tranny I am removing and anything else.  I've read a number of times that mix is much more effective as a penetrating oil than most off-the shelf penetrating oils including WD40, PB Blaster and Kroil.

[Bill Shreeves]

Where did you find the mineral oil contents re WD40?
  Link please?

kk

Ken - Maybe an inaccurate source, it was a quickie look-up after reading a post and didn't put much time in to it...

https://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/

[KWKloeber]

Yes, inaccurate (according to the safety data sheets for WD40.)

That's the problem (the only one?) w/ citing "data" from the net -- inaccuracies will live on forever.

Yes, I saw that one also.  Yah can't do what they did and guarantee accurate results -- there's too many possibilities of interference between compounds that will mask or result in false positives, to accurately "de-engineer" a product using a GCMS scan.

k

Where did you find the mineral oil contents re WD40?
  Link please?

kk

Ken - Maybe an inaccurate source, it was a quickie look-up after reading a post and didn't put much time in to it...

https://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/

[KWKloeber]

follow up...............

I located someone who posted the original article...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5xnnKbPEWx5dmMzQ2s0SkhPdk0/view?usp=sharing

which I copied below strictly for our fair use, educational purposes.  So don't anyone start selling an AFT/acetone potion with the intention of making a killing on a marine rust-buster.

This is the sole test that I know of.  Whatever product works for you, go for it.  As far as the 'scientific test' itself, there's many potential factors that could have played into one product working better than another, and PSF coming out on top -- not to mention that it didn't use 'real' bolts.  And I'm wondering why the force required for each sample, or at least the range for each product, wasn't published?  That doesn't mean PSF doesn't work, even though the article fails to state whether the mix is 50-50***, as has been cited ad infinitum in every boating and auto forum.  So goes "the internet."

*** 1/30/17 Correction, the article does say 1:1,  So goes my eyesight. LOL

I'd suppose that the anecdotal accounts where someone used 50-50 ATF and it worked fantasticismally, could be because they hadn't tried others on the same bolt.  I sure don't know, but I mean -- how many times do we get to use two different rust busters replicated on bolts in exactly the same condition?  If A works, we don't go get B to see if it'll work better, and if A worked, we're likely to keep using A until it doesn't.

kk

P.S. the terms ATF acetone "april 2007" test gets about 2800 hits, all re-telling a tale that is, at best, "unscientifically" proven.  There are also anecdotal posts about other potions using diesel fuel and Coleman fuel working fantasticismally.  So the obvious, common sense question is.... If any of those work with fantasticismal results, (2X, 3X or nX better,) why hasn't one of the major manufacturers adapted to that formula, and in the process blown the drawers off everyone else in the rust bustin' market?  Loyalty to their inferior formula?  Not.  Follow the money.

[Noah]

Everyone has a "favorite" penatrating oil. Not being a mechanic, I read about Kroil here and tried it on my 30-year-old "rusty stuck" OEM coupling bolts, being careful to apply with a Q-tip to each bolt/nut, a couple of times a week, for 2-3 weeks prior to removing it-- avoiding the transmission seals area--as per MaineSail's advice, and it worked great! Have used it elsewhere too with good results. BTW- my Hurth 50 is painted Westerbeke bronze and no "ill effects" (that I am aware of).