Cooling water on the hard

[chuck53]

I flush my engine with fresh water every weekend when getting ready to go home.  This obviously works on the hard as well.

It could not be easier. 

Close seacock
Open strainer
Have water hose ready to go
Wife fires up engine and I add water to the strainer.
Done.

Works great for winterizing...just pour AF in the strainer.

[Breakin Away]

I like the strainer idea, so long as you have a mate to handle the engine part. But I would have been concerned that the strainer gives too little margin for error in matching the rate. I do have a ball valve termination for the garden hose, but it doesn't control rate that precisely. Sounds like it's simpler than I thought.

[KWKloeber]

Exactly

We tend NOT to say "you're making too much of this".  LOL

[chuck53]

The strainer method...
I have a nozzle on the end of the hose, if I use too much water, it overflows into the bilge.  Not enough, you can see the water level drop in the strainer.  I'm sure my 10 year old grandson could do this just fine.

[Roc]

You have a MkII,  so....  in the aft cabin, take off the cover that is over the seacock area.  You now can fit a large bucket in that recess area, right next to the seacock and run the raw water hose into it.  If you open the aft cabin hatch, you now can run the garden hose through the hatch and into the bucket.  As the engine runs, you can see the water in the bucket go down.  Just reach your hand through the hatch and open the petcock to let more water in.  Do the same as you're putting antifreeze. You can do all this while standing in the cockpit, and looking at the situation through the hatch.

[Breakin Away]

Oh, I forgot about the escape hatch (not at the boat now). That makes it all a lot more convenient.

[KWKloeber]

a lot more convenient.

You'll find there isn't much voodoo to catalina ownership and like (too?) many things in life there's oftentimes (too?) many ways to skin a beast and you'll settle into your own routine based on what ends up being comfy to you.  So throw off the bowlines and experiment with different techniques no matter what it involves for your own learning experiences and peace of mind.   

A point I didn't articulate was, when you are done, you are going to access the sea water pump anyway, and remove/inspect the impeller, leave it out for the lay up, etc.   You have the hose kill, the engine kill lever, and the 12 volt (alarm) kill on the panel, all right there accessible.  Before or during the lay up would be a good time to install a remote start switch -- I bought a double pole, 3-position toggle switch [OFF / ON (preheat on/off) - MOM ON (start) ] to wire in for a remote start.

Also, remember to let me know the OD you need for the sealing ring. 

-kk

[KWKloeber]

quintessential description of the disadvantages of the Sherwood pumps in the tech wiki under engines.

Attached is actually the best description of disadvantages of a Sherwood (what happened to an M35B owner)! 

-kk

[Stu Jackson]

And there is a step-by-step How To right there in the C34 tech wiki to make the change to the Oberdorfer pump.

[KWKloeber]

And there is a step-by-step How To right there in the C34 tech wiki to make the change to the Oberdorfer pump.

There is for the M-25/XPs, but I don't believe for the B-series engines there is a step-by-step posted.  But the Ob pump is a straight replacement for the Sherwood (unless you use the kit that I provide to replace the OEM bolts with studs/nylock flange nuts, to secure the pump clips, but that's a minor change.)

-kk

[Stu Jackson]

And there is a step-by-step How To right there in the C34 tech wiki to make the change to the Oberdorfer pump.

There is for the M-25/XPs, but I don't believe for the B-series engines there is a step-by-step posted.  But the Ob pump is a straight replacement for the Sherwood (unless you use the kit that I provide to replace the OEM bolts with studs/nylock flange nuts, to secure the pump clips, but that's a minor change.)

-kk

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Replacing_a_Sherwood_Water_Pump_with_an_Oberdorfer

M35 A & B are discussed.

[KWKloeber]

And there is a step-by-step How To right there in the C34 tech wiki to make the change to the Oberdorfer pump.

There is for the M-25/XPs, but I don't believe for the B-series engines there is a step-by-step posted.  But the Ob pump is a straight replacement for the Sherwood (unless you use the kit that I provide to replace the OEM bolts with studs/nylock flange nuts, to secure the pump clips, but that's a minor change.)

-kk

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Replacing_a_Sherwood_Water_Pump_with_an_Oberdorfer

M35 A & B are discussed.

True, however the 35B how-to is using the bastardized Ob 202m-16 pump, not the one-for-one replacement for the Sherwood, which is much easier to use and there's other benefits to it vs using the -16 pump.

ken

[Ron Hill]

Guys : If that internal slotted tang on that gear breaks (regardless of engine) - it doesn't make one bit of difference what water pump you have!!   You are screwed!!   

In this particular case the owner may? not have heeded the Westerbeke service bulletin (M35B & M25XPB) that said there was a sleeve that should be installed over that slotted tang on the engine gear and the mating tang on the water pump?!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

Just the Facts, m'am....

1.   The M35B in that picture HAD the reinforcing collar in place.
2.   I've done marine pumps for 20 years, so I have some hands-on experience;
3.   The IRON-body Westerbeke pump (yes, Wb owns that pump) tends to seize and snap off the fork on the camshaft gear;
4.   The BRONZE Oberdorfer pump doesn't tend to seize up and snap off the fork;
5.   The fork broke BECAUSE that IRON-body pump was on that engine - it would still be intact if the Ob pump was on the engine;
6.   Wb devised the retrofit reinforcing collar because of early on, the number of times its pump destroyed the gear fork;
7.   Early on, Wb covered its mistake by offering a free reinforcing ring and pump gasket, and paid for parts and labor to replace a broken cam shaft;
8.   When that got too expensive, Wb covered its butt by issuing the 2013 warning to inspect its pump, because of it's tendency to seize up, EVERY TIME the engine is operated;
9.   No leeway on that maintenance schedule allowed by Wb;
10. Since 2013 will pay for nothing on the repair, NOR will Wb even supply the missing reinforcing ring;
11. I know of five other Catalina owners where the IRON-body pump destroyed the pump drive fork, and two were not the B-series engines -- at least two chose to replace theirs with an electric pump over doing an engine job.

Pop quiz - how can Beta Marine marineize the same Kubota block and not experience the same sea water pump problem? Simple - it doesn't use an IRON-body pump that seizes up.  No D'oh in the Beta Marine engineering department.

One's Boat, One's Choice whether to devote the time to maintain a pump on a daily basis.  But I wonder, again, why owners tend to defend companies that used inferior parts or poor design on their boats and who don't stand behind it's product?  I have my theory, but it's an interesting question about human nature.

-kk

[Stu Jackson]

<<<SNIP>>>But I wonder, again, why owners tend to defend companies that used inferior parts or poor design on their boats and who don't stand behind it's product?  I have my theory, but it's an interesting question about human nature.

And I reflect your wonder why C34 skippers who have Sherwood pumps on their boats keep using them, regardless of what engine they may have.

But look, Ken, you've done just about all you could to save them from themselves.  We are truly thankful for your contributions.

This is NOT a case of Your boat, your choice. 

We've warned people, over & over again about wiring harnesses, alternator brackets, you name it.

Some folks, even if they've found this website, just don't listen.

In that case:  their boat, their choice.