Hot water heater/ fresh water pump

[Ekutney]

Doing some extensive plumbing work.

I recently removed my hot water heater & disassembled the unit.  The tank appears to be in good shape but the external cover shows signs of rust.  I have cleaned off all cover pieces and was thinking of repainting & reassembly.  I did not have a chance to fully test it because the boat is on the hard but I plan to test it before I continue.  My initial testing was to look for leaks & any signs of sediment in the tank, all appears to look good.  The date code on the unit says it is a 1985.  Any suggestions on if I should put it back together or replace it?

I also removed my fresh water pump which is also original..  I tested the pump and it seems to function except the water output seems to pulse.  I am pondering the same for the pump because I did some reading & it seems the newer pumps are quieter.  I plan to mount it low on the bulkhead which connects to the aft salon behind the sink.  I am also considerimg

I have removed the sink to provide easier access to all components.  i would appreciate any useful advice from the vast knowledge base on this forum.

[KWKloeber]

Ed,

depends... do you have excess boat bucks to burn to reduce the possibility of needing to pull the WH sooner if there's a leak?  If so replace.     But if you are on a budget, simply pressure test it and especially clean and look for corrosion/pitting at the connection weld spots (that's where mine developed a pinhole.)  I replaced mine (the cost of touching up the welds equaled my cost for a new Seaward.)

10 yrs previous, I had repainted the case -- sand the rust spots to bare, use a galvanized metal primer if you're going over old galvanizing -- it will take a while to cure,  Then paint over with your finish coat (I used aluminum paint.) I also added additional f'glass insulation.

[Ekutney]

Thanks for the response, I am always trying to reuse what is not broken but will pay very close attention to the welds to see if there is enough corrosion to warrant replacement.

Any suggestions on the Fresh water pump?   I was also considering an expansion tank but reading some material on newer pumps says they can be used without one because they have multiple chambers.  If there is a pump that someone has used a specific model number would be appreciated.

[Stu Jackson]

Ed,

You may have read my water heater replacement tech note:  http://www.c34.org/mainsheet/html/2014/Water%20heater%20replacement.htm

Our experiences have been 12-16 years on the Seaward heaters.  I got the best pricing from Sure Marine in Seattle.

Water Pumps:  My OEM Shurflo was 2.8 GPM -- Model # 2088-423-344

I bought a replacement Shurflo 3901-0216 3.0 GPM, 55psi.  I haven't installed it yet, 'cuz as soon as I bought it the old one continued to work!  Probably jealous! 

I went through the research on the new fangled ones, but reading the woes of the C355 skippers with their Jabsco new pressure pumps, I opted for the KISS principle.  I/we don't mind the small amount of noise, and I actually like it as a "tell tale" for any leaks.  Since I redid the system in 2014, knock on wood.

I also went through the research on an accumulator tank, and even though I found the room for one, I simply never bothered.

If it was my boat, I'd get a new heater "while you're in there," and never have to worry about it for the next decade or more.

Your boat, your choice. 

[Ekutney]

Stu,

Thanks much for the information.

I always appreciate your tag line of my boat, my choice.

[Stu Jackson]

I always appreciate your tag line of my boat, my choice.

You're welcome.

I don't know "where that came from," but I shoulda copyrighted it!

[Ekutney]

Any suggestions for a new water heater?  I have looked at both a Seaward & Kuuma, the Isotherm is quite a bit more expensive.

I read the Tech Note but it is a bit different than my current configuration, all my hose connections are on the side facing the water heater door.  Are the connections in the picture (facing water heater door) the cold water input & hot water output?  I assume the hot water in/out from the engine coolant are on the other side.

I am going to take your suggestion and replace the water heater since I have all other components removed.

[Stu Jackson]

Ed, Kuuma is a knock off of the Seaward.  Go with Seaward, unless you can afford the more expensive Isotherm which will keep you water hot much much longer because of its superior insulation, plus it comes with a thermostatic mixing valve.

You buy the Seawards with either back or front connections.  Mine were rear, and "get" the important point about installing short 5/8" hoses to the heater before you install it, makes connecting to the engine hoses so much easier.

Those connections (and the choices on the Seaward) are for the engine connections.  The plumbing connections are in the front of the heater, no choice there.

Clear?

[Ekutney]

Stu,

Thanks for the info, crystal!!

[Indian Falls]

I got the Kuuma because of the enormous price difference.  The Kuuma was 250$  It is a tiny bit different as far as height of the engine coolant inlet and outlet but nothing unworkable. You can get the heater element replacement for this at McMaster Carr for 10$

[Stu Jackson]

I got the Kuuma because of the enormous price difference.  The Kuuma was 250$ 

I got my replacement Seaward for $281 including s/h in August 2103.  I shopped around on the internet.  There is a HUGE disparity in pricing across the board.

[Ekutney]

Another question regarding the water heater.  I removed the old Seaward unit and it was poorly attached to a circular piece of plywood which was put in place using 5200.  The unit had a bigger footprint than the round base to which it was attached so the PO used a very large hose clamp to try and hold down one end while the other was attached using the flange.  I have cleaned up the area, boy 5200 really is a permanent bonding material.  Used a heat gun to overture and remove being careful not to get too aggressive when getting closer to the hull.  It seems as I dig deeper I find more facinating discoveries.

I was thinking of glassing in two 1X1 18 in long oriented port to strb then attaching a plywood shelf to bolt the new water heater.  I have measured and have the height.  This config will keep the water heater off the hul and I can extend the shelf stbd for either water pump mounting or storage.  I am also considering mounting the electric water pump on the bulkhead shared with the setee.  I have remounted the bottom door in the galley so it opens to stbd rather than dropping down (the PO put a big NO STEP sign on it which just seemed like an accident waiting to happen),  I think this would be a good space for additional galley storage.

[Stu Jackson]

What was underneath mine:

[Ekutney]

I had the same exact configuration but the wood was not was coming apart and could not be reused.  The shelf to the right in your picture had come away from the hull at both ends so I removed it as well.

I will take some pictures in the next few days and post them showing, I hope, my NEW platform for the water heater.  BTW, I went with a Kuuma because I got it at a good price $240.  I found the date code on the Seaward and it was a 2007 and tested good with no leaks but had quite a bit of scaling on the inside.  I also got some very brown water out of it when it was removed, did not feel comfortable with the odor that it had even after I flushed it a few times.  The old water heater did not have an anode installed, I have read that having one installed will increase the lifetime of a unit by decreasing internal corrosion.  I ordered a magnesium anode with a built in drain, any experience or thoughts regarding that?

[SPembleton]

My PO relocated the water heater to an area aft of the aft cabin. It is next to the hanging locker there.  I can access it through an opening there. It freed up a lot of space under the sink. It has worked out well.