"The HeadMistress tries to help with Sanitation System"

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Stu Jackson

In this recent topic, http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8976.0.html, Russ asked about his relatively "unique" system.

Peggie asked me to open this separate thread, and I included the link for future reference back to the long original topic.  I'll add a link in that one back to here, too.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Peggie Hall

Hi y'all! Stu sent me an SOS saying somebody needs help sorting out how to straighten a sanitation plumbing nightmare.  After spending an hour or more trying unsuccessfully to figure out where to jump in, I asked him to create a new "companion" thread. 'cuz that one had gotten so long with so many photos,comments and reposts of both that I can't sort it all out. So let's start from scratch...here's my take from what I  was able to sort out:

The v-berth is the ideal location for a holding tank on a sailboat UNLESS that would put it more than about 6-8' of plumbing run from the toilet...and from what I'm guessing from some of the comments, it's a LOT further than that from the toilet on this boat.  How far??  Can it be plumbed to get a lot of help from gravity to get it there...iow, a short uphill run immediately after the toilet to a loop that's just slightly higher than the tank inlet, then downhill the rest of the way to the tank?
It would be easy...It only needs to slope a few degrees.  The only problem may be how to avoid a run of exposed hose, which of course would not be acceptable!

If not possible, the best answer may be a new tank in a new location closer to the the head. Venting it to keep it aerobic--which is necessary to prevent odor out the vent--would be more of a challenge, but do-able and the cost of  new tank would be offset by the amount you save on the hose 'cuz you'd need a lot less.  Ronco Plastics (they've made tanks for Catalina for years, btw) will have one for a VERY reasonable price.

However, if we leave the tank under the v-berth, IMO, instead of trying to figure out how to modify the existing plumbing "design," it'll be a whole bunch easier to come up with a good design if you pull it ALL out--including the tank--and start over.  And the first thing I'd do is relocate the vent fitting to the bow end of the tank (very easy to do, thanks to a li'l gadget called the Uniseal   http://www.aussieglobe.com/ )--and btw, make this one 1"--preferably ON the top of the tank if you have at least 3" clearance above it...otherwise at the top of the bow end.  Seal the existing vent fitting with a threaded plug wrapped in plenty of Teflon tape.  That will give you a straight run to a new thru-hull only about a foot below the toe rail, which is high enough to keep it out of the water at max heel. Don't worry about a little splashing.   And use sanitation hose, not water hose,  this time!  Shields or Trident #148 is ok for vent lines and toilet intake lines.

Those are my opening thoughts...what if anything am I missing that makes any of it unworkable?   If you want to import a photo from the first "edition" of this thread, please just include a link to it instead?

Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/

Sailing48N

Hi Peggie,

Thanks a lot for taking a look at my setup. Here's a link to a flckr.com album that contains all the photos.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskBomL5r

The first 10 photos are sequential to how they are routed from the head to the holding tank. Once it makes the initial rise from the head (2nd picture) the hose runs more or less horizontal with possibly just a slight downward angle before dropping again at the end into the tank location.

I already have 50 ft of the Trident 101 hose at the boat ready to go (it was cheaper to buy a hole 50' than the 36' I measured. I'd like to keep the tank in it's current location but am open to changing that decision if necessary.

Currently I have the tank completely removed and sitting in my garage at home. Adding a new location to the bow end of the tank seems easy enough. Any suggestions on the best way to seal up the current vent hole at the aft end of the tank?

I'm assuming base on what input I've heard so far and what I've picked up on from other threads, the current through hull for the vent hose is much too low and too close to the waterline. Is that correct? I plan to take the vent line and run it up between the hull and the anchor locker to a new through hull near the top of the bow as was suggested by Fred in the other thread.

I have another question regarding the hoses and diverter valve at the bottom of the tank leading to the pump-out and/or the overboard discharge. Does this all need to stay above the bottom level of the tank so waste doesn't rest in any of the hoses? I was planning on going strait out of the tank with a strait connection to the diverter valve. Now, I'm second guessing that and thinking that I should keep the 90 degree elbow and run the hose upwards from there to some degree.
Russell & Lindsay
1986 Hull #154 - Standard Rig / Fin Keel
Tacoma, WA

Peggie Hall

I already have 50 ft of the Trident 101 hose at the boat ready to go (it was cheaper to buy a hole 50' than the 36' I measured.

Trident 101 is a great choice...as long as your hose runs are straight.  Bu not the best choice if there are bends in the run tighter than a gentle sweep 'cuz it's stiff as an ironing board and you should NEVER heat a hose to make it bend tighter than it wants to bend willingly...that stretches the "skin" on the outside of the radius, which can lead to tears in it...weakens the inside of the radius, which can result in a kinked hose. So if a bend is tight, you need to break the hose and insert an in-line radius fittings. One or two in a long run is ok...more than that needs a softer more flexible hose.

I'd like to keep the tank in it's current location but am open to changing that decision if necessary.

From what you say about the hose run, that should be possible...though it may require a downhill run that's bit steeper than what you have now.

Adding a new location to the bow end of the tank seems easy enough. Any suggestions on the best way to seal up the current vent hole at the aft end of the tank?

As I said above...a threaded plug--available from any hardware store--wrapped in plenty of Teflon tape is all that' needed. 

I'm assuming base on what input I've heard so far and what I've picked up on from other threads, the current through hull for the vent hose is much too low and too close to the waterline. Is that correct?

Yup...it is.   It shouldn't be any lower than a foot below the toe rail and should be as far forward as you can put it. You want it to be as straight as possible and we want it to be 1".   

If you plan to do any extended blue water sailing, we may need to put a shutoff valve on it, to prevent taking on water through the vent in seas heavy enough to keep the thru-hull under water for extended periods...which won't be a problem 'cuz you'll have modified the plumbing to let you flushing direct overboard in open sea.

I have another question regarding the hoses and diverter valve at the bottom of the tank leading to the pump-out and/or the overboard discharge. Does this all need to stay above the bottom level of the tank so waste doesn't rest in any of the hoses? I was planning on going strait out of the tank with a strait connection to the diverter valve. Now, I'm second guessing that and thinking that I should keep the 90 degree elbow and run the hose upwards from there to some degree.

How much clearance do you have above the tank?  If at least 5", we can move the discharge fitting(s) to the top of the tank with pickup tube(s) inside the tank.  If you don't have that much, we need to aim a 90 discharge fitting straight up and use a piece of hard sched 80 to the top of the tank, then switch to hose to go to the y'valve and then the o'board discharge pump--both of which can be high--and then to the thru-hull.

Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/