1987 MK 1 Electrical System Upgrade - Feedback Requested

[Jon W]

I have a 250A positive busbar connected to the house bank after the 250A MRBF fuse. The alternator output and a jumper to the 1-2-B switch #1 post are connected to this busbar.

Would I be better off connecting the alternator output directly to the MRBF fuse on the house bank, then run the house bank from the MRBF fuse directly to the #1 position on the 1-2-B switch? Then change the 250A busbar to a smaller 150A connected to the house bank before the fuse for these devices plus the bilge pumps so they would always be on?

OR

What do you think about the Blue Sea ST fuse block (pn# 5024) that attaches to the battery with 4 ATC type fuses?

Jon W.

[Stu Jackson]

Jon, this link sounds a little bit, perhaps, like what you are discussing.

http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/anl-fuse-busbar-vs-dual-mrbf-and-plain-busbar.175922/#post-1257208

Scroll up to the top.

[Jon W]

Thanks, the link answered the questions.

I think (I hope) I'm finally done. Tried attaching the final version with a combined Excel wire detail and a better quality graphic, but Excel isn't allowed. So attached a lesser quality graphic with no wire detail like I had done previously.

For the Leece-Neville external regulator conversion kit I found an online supplier named ASE-Supply.com. Do these folks sell quality stuff and reputable? I may follow Noah's lead and use the supplier in Florida, but thought this may be quicker.

Thanks to all for the comments, corrections, guidance, and ideas. As always feedback is welcome.

Jon W.

[Craig Illman]

I bought an alternator, pulley and regulator conversion kit from ASE Supply and was very satisfied. I found a new Balmar AR-5 regulator kit on eBay for $200.

Craig

[Jon W]

Thanks Craig. I just placed the order.

Jon W.

[Stu Jackson]

..............I found an online supplier named ASE-Supply.com. Do these folks sell quality stuff and reputable?

Jon, yes, they're good.  I spoke with them a year or so ago, talked to a gentleman named Bob (they have two!!!), very helpful, also suggested he give me the model # but I buy online for better pricing than phone.  Also I found them based on the advice from Maine Sail on his Leece Neville thread right here on this site, you're probably still on info overload, right?   

[Jon W]

I got as far as the "How to" link, which is where I got the part number. I didn't see the next link which recommends ASE-Supply.com. So close.

Any idea what size ring terminal is needed for the BMV-700 shunt?

Jon W.

[mainesail]

3/8" lug for the Victron shunt..

[Jon W]

Thank You.

[Jon W]

Questions about ABYC code compliance -

Is there a required distance between a positive busbar and a negative busbar if they will be mounted near each other? Example - if mounted near each other there must be a gap of x" between the nearest points to avoid an arc flash.

Is there an issue if the positive busbar is mounted several inches above the negative busbar?

Thanks for the help.

Jon W.

[Jon W]

I heard from Ken the other day, so to close the loop on this question the answer is - they can be next to each other. Good practice would be to use a cover on the positive bus so there's no chance of shorting to any of the terminals. I'll be using the Blue Sea 2300 busbar's which have a cover.

Jon W.

[J_Sail]

You are correct that there is no risk of flashover at 12v (even at 1 micron the flashover voltage is over 12v). I would add, though, that in addition to using a cover, it is good practice to space/arrange busbars so that you can add/remove connections without excessive risk of accidental contact with the wrong busbar. A couple inches is usually enough to meet that requirement.

[Dancrosswis]

Just a quick thank you note.  My electrical upgrade plans closely parallel Jon's.  I've been lurking as this long thread has evolved.  Today, I reviewed the entire thread again and updated my own schematic and notes.  Jon's great evolving diagrams, accompanied by everyone's thoughts, have been truly educational.  I've been schooled  .

Dan
Ennui Went #159

[Stu Jackson]

I've been schooled  .

Dan, glad this helped.  Jon's done a yeoman job.  One of the things that Jon did was immerse himself in the Electrical Systems 101 topic, don't know if you've had the chance yet.

[Jon W]

Hi Dan,
I'm glad this has been helpful. 2 months of sifting through all the data, asking questions, and then pulling it together has been worth it.

The plan is to start doing the actual work right after Christmas. However, I'm now considering installing the reserve battery in the storage area under the fwd salon sette by the table. With the battery installed fore and aft direction and tucked outboard on a shelf,  it will take up little usable storage space and be far more accessible. I realize the fore and aft orientation is not the preferred method and the negative cable will be longer, but being a little used reserve battery the compromise for the other benefits seems worth serious consideration for me. I need to make a decision in the next few days.

Attached is a pretty detailed schematic of Rev H with reserve battery under the fwd salon by the table. Tried attaching Rev G with the reserve under the aft berth for comparison, but get an error that posting both is too large.

If I can keep the energy level up, I'm thinking of documenting the carpentry work, creating a bill of material with parts, terminal connectors, and quantities, documenting wire lengths/color/gauges, voltage drop, with photo's and posting in the projects link. So future folks can have a complete work packet to review and reference.

Jon W.