Prop Shaft Problems & OEM Ground Wire Flix

[britinusa]

Slightly confused (or more, easily done  )

When discussing the 'coupling' are we talking about the flange that connects the transmission to the shaft.

And the key should be visible looking forwards along the shaft into the 'coupling'

And in this instance, the shaft had failed inside the 'coupling'

Add that inspection to my list 



Paul

[Stu Jackson]

When discussing the 'coupling' are we talking about the flange that connects the transmission to the shaft.

Couple = two.

There's one on the forward end of the shaft and one on the aft end of the transmission.  They "mate" with four bolts.

[KWKloeber]

With a mirror, you *should* see the keyway (slot for the rectangular key) cut into the butt end of the coupling.  And of course there *should* be a corresponding slot machined into the shaft. 

Is it possible you hit some floatsom that temporarily jammed between one blade and the hull? An acquaintance did that on a twin drive and it was in so hard they had to cut a section out of the log and take it all to the prop shop! I ask because you sure don't want to find out you also have tranny damage after you reinstall the shaft.

Kk

[Ron Hill]

Paul : The "flange" that the drive shaft fits into is sometimes referred to as a hard "coupling". 
(as opposed to a flexible coupling)

The same critter (coupling/flange)

[Stu Jackson]

Pictures:

1.   Engine Ground - port (left) side to left and below the bottom of the exhaust riser

2.   Key into Coupling (looking from aft to forward under aft cabin) (note plastic wire tie from 1998!!! )

[KWKloeber]

Pictures:

1.   Engine Ground - port (left) side to left and below the bottom of the exhaust riser

2.   Key into Coupling (looking from aft to forward under aft cabin) (note plastic wire tie from 1998!!! )

Stu,

I thought you had a power post on the stringer for your grounds?
Still on the bell housing? much better on a starter bolt.

I think you're missing something - maybe a Hx?  LOL!   Did you move it to off engine?

Ken

[Stu Jackson]

Pictures:

1.   Engine Ground - port (left) side to left and below the bottom of the exhaust riser

2.   Key into Coupling (looking from aft to forward under aft cabin) (note plastic wire tie from 1998!!! )

Stu,

I thought you had a power post on the stringer for your grounds?
Still on the bell housing? much better on a starter bolt.

I think you're missing something - maybe a Hx?  LOL!   Did you move it to off engine?

Ken

I never had a ground on a stringer, not so good below the engine, must be someone else.  I have a second ground bus bar on the starboard wall of the engine compartment.  This is a photo of the OEM engine ground, since we get so many "Where is it?" questions.

The HX was out because I'm replacing the exhaust riser and the muffler.  Reading Ron Hill's excellent November 2001 Tech Note, available right here in the Tech Notes Online if you're a C34IA Member.   

[KWKloeber]

The HX was out because I'm replacing the exhaust riser and the muffler.  Reading Ron Hill's excellent November 2001 Tech Note, available right here in the Tech Notes Online if you're a C34IA Member.   

What a great step-by-step write up Ron did.  It's wonderful having the TechNotes available online.... *some* day we will also!   

That Westerbeke water-injected riser is a sweet, sweet mod/upgrade.....   

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