Installing Espar heater

[mainesail]

Does anyone have an opinion on the marine Espar versus the truck version?   The difference in price is noticeable but I have wondered if these changes will actually make a difference, especially in our fresh water environment on Lake Michigan.

The truck kits are quite different from the marine kits. Here's just a few of of differences..


*Marine unit has different fuel line, not plastic. The plastic fuel lines in the truck kit do not meet ABYC, USCG or minimum standards your insurance company will want to see compliance with.

*Marine kit has marine specific software to minimize lock outs. On trucks they know where the fuel tanks are in comparison to the fuel metering pump. Not so on boats so the software is programmed differently.

*The truck kit comes with very little duct hose & supply/return outlets/inlets. You will almost always need more.

*The truck kit does not come with exhaust lagging insulation and this is critical on a boat.

*The truck kit does not come with a muffler, you will want a muffler.

*The truck kit does not come with double walled marine SS exhaust hose it is single wall and NOT SAFE for marine use.

*The truck kit does not come with the exhaust fitting for the transom

*The truck kit does not come with a marine mounting bracket, they mount them on a floor.

*On some models the marine kits use a larger duct hose diameters and heater plenum outlets to make up for the longer runs in boats. This means a new case / plenum outlet for the Espar

*Truck kits don't come with exhaust condensate drains (some marine kits don't either)

*Due to the lockout issues on boats, because of the length between tank and metering pump, you will want the digital t-stat which allows reading and clearing codes. If you don't opt for this it means a technician with a $1000.00 tool to come reset the unit and clear the codes. You can easily lock it out just on start up....

*Wiring harnesses are longer on boat kits to accommodate thermostat placement in relation to heater.


In short I have installed a number of Espar's for folks trying to save a buck who bought truck kits. In every single case it cost them more than if they had just purchased the marine kit.

I would strongly urge anyone to buy the unit from whomever will stand behind it and service it locally. I would also not install an Espar without the digital thermostat. These stats allow you to re-set codes and trouble shoot the codes. The service tool for this cost over $1000.00 and the Digi-Max D-1000 stat costs under $100.00

I do not advise teeing into an existing fuel line. The fuel "metering" pumps need the small diameter pick up the Espar ships with or they can lock out and cause problems. Teeing in should be a last resort...

Oh and Espar's need and love CLEAN FUEL......

[Paulus]

Thanks for the input mainsail.  I would also suggest that interested installers read the espar marine manual or the webasto marine manual.  Both are available online.

[waterdog]

waterdog (aka Steve Dolling) posted a tip years ago:  he ran the ductwork under the mirror but above the counter in the head.

Actually no.   Mine is in the aft locker.    Duct runs into the head area and Ts with a 2" duct to the aft cabin, under the counter in the head to the hanging locker with a 4" drop at the base for the main salon, under the nav table exposed and behind seats above the access hole with a feed to the v-berth.   No ducting is visible unless eyeballs are below the nav table.   Fuel is a direct pickup from the tank.   Exhaust is high out the transom.   I have a hinged bulkhead in the locker so loose gear does not contact the unit.   

[dfloeter]

Another thanks to Mainsail for a labor and dollars saving bit of advice.