An interesting engine wiring discovery

[Craig Illman]

When I bought my C30 a little less than two months ago, I assumed the solenoid in the engine compartment was the glow plug modification, but I didn't actually trace the wiring to confirm it. I was removing the engine side "trailer plugs" yesterday and discovered that the solenoid was actually "upstream" of the solenoid on the starter motor itself. So that the start button on the engine panel energized the added solenoid which sent current to the starter solenoid. I can only guess that there wasn't adequate current up through the panel to energize the starter solenoid directly? I'm open to any other theories.

I've removed the trailer plugs at both ends, ran 8 gauge to the positive side of the panel (fused with an inline Maxi-fuse at the starter end) and 8 gauge back to the starter solenoid. I've repurposed this additional solenoid as the glow plug modification. It started right up this morning with twenty seconds of glow plug with a forty degree engine block. Mission accomplished.

I'm sure the person that bought my C34 had some "questions" about some of the "enhancements" I had done. Older boats certainly get to be a archeological endeavor.

Craig

[KWKloeber]

Craig,

That's exactly the purpose -- as we had discussed due to the sometimes low voltage/current in the S wire at times if there's issues with any connections corroded, etc. 

What's bizarre, is that the PO did that, but left the darn Gummy Bear plugs!  Hmmmmmm... I'm rethinking about running the heavy #8, now that you have already LOL!  Sometimes it's a forest/trees thing, 'eh?

Did you come up with a suitable fuse for the 8AWG wire?

I wonder how much less amperage the solenoid draws, vs the starter solenoid?  That's the key to it.  I have no idea what the pull-in amperage is on the starter solenoid, but I would guess 30 amps.  If you happen to have a clamp-on ammeter, check it.


Did you wow the GF?

Ken K

[Stu Jackson]

I'm sure the person that bought my C34 had some "questions" about some of the "enhancements" I had done. Older boats certainly get to be a archeological endeavor.

Craig,

You're right.  I've kept track of my "enhancements" and looking back at them, most of them have been electrical, all well documented and in some cases photographed, but I don't think pictures of wiring are worth anything without a wiring diagram.   

[Noah]

Not only a diagram, I recommend labeling the actual wires and fuses too!

[Craig Illman]

Ken - I found an inline MaxiFuse holder on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0969pt-Maxi-Fuse-Holder/dp/B00030CPOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416152877&sr=8-2&keywords=maxifuse+holder

I'm not sure what the starter solenoid draws, I'd think less than ten amps. I'm not sure where my clamp ammeter is, I've never used it on D.C.

That reminds me, the had done the ammeter/voltmeter swap on the original panel, but didn't change the gummy bear plugs. Also if they were having current loss issues from the panel to the starter solenoid, why didn't they recycle the old ammeter 10ga (#4 on the plug?). The Catalina Direct print shows the starter wire, #3 as 10ga, but in my harness, it appeared to be 14ga.

The GF wasn't up with me on Friday/Saturday, we're having a cold spell and the cabin was 40 degrees F even with the little electric heater running.

Craig

[KWKloeber]

Ken - I found an inline MaxiFuse holder on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0969pt-Maxi-Fuse-Holder/dp/B00030CPOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416152877&sr=8-2&keywords=maxifuse+holder

I'm not sure what the starter solenoid draws, I'd think less than ten amps. I'm not sure where my clamp ammeter is, I've never used it on D.C.

That reminds me, the had done the ammeter/voltmeter swap on the original panel, but didn't change the gummy bear plugs. Also if they were having current loss issues from the panel to the starter solenoid, why didn't they recycle the old ammeter 10ga (#4 on the plug?). The Catalina Direct print shows the starter wire, #3 as 10ga, but in my harness, it appeared to be 14ga.

The GF wasn't up with me on Friday/Saturday, we're having a cold spell and the cabin was 40 degrees F even with the little electric heater running.

Craig

Craig,  As far as I thought the clamp has to be used on DC-- ie, you have to separate the A/C legs to clamp it (so you in effect have a have pulsed DC), otherwise the two legs cancel each other out? (I have a HF one but have never used that function)

I'd guess the hold-in might be 10a, but I'd guess the pull-in is at least double that.  I'll have to check next time I'm aboard, if my meter has a hold function.

The original S wire (at least on the C30 MK-I, was 16 AWG !!!!  Then at some point CTY or Seaward (whomever actually made the harnesses -- CTY I am guessing) upped it to 14 AWG, then 10.  There's about 5 different schematics floating around, and every one slightly different -- I haven't found one that's 100% correct (usually the AWGs, and the S wire, glow plug, or Alt A/C wire color vares from actual.)

Really, your POs slave solenoid is a better fix that simply using the #10 charge wire to the starter, though as belt-and suspenders, I would have fired it with the 10AWG.  I have an extra relay in the engine compartment -- I used a 40a continuous-duty relay, rather than the HD ford-type solenoid for my glow plugs)

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid#.3D.3D.3D_Using_a_relay_to_fire_the_plugs

and have a second one there that I could use (so long as the pull-in current is low enough.)  I repurposed my orange to an oil pressure gauge, though I may switch that with my current S wire -- I'm just kind of a nut on following the ABYC color coding, so I hesitate doing that (yes just anal, and yes could use heat shrink to mark the ends -- but it ain't quite the same.)

BTW, there's a Maxi-breaker that you can use in that holder - that'a what I supplied with one harness I did.  Wayteck has them, if interested or I have an extra I believe.

Cheers,
Ken