Another Cutlass Bearing Situation

[Andrew Harvey]

Frederick,
I replaced my cutlass bearing a couple of years ago.The prop was a problem until I put a propane torch to it. Once it let go with the tension on the puller..well let's say i was lucky not to standing in front of it. There is enough offset between the shaft and rudder to clear but it is real tight
I had a new SS shaft made in Barrie. FYI Barrie Machine and Welding. 705 726 1444. I was around $350.00. I don't know what grade.
I suspect your marina is part of the Parkbridge Group of scary mechanics..

[Roger Rathbun]

Fred:
By now I'm sure you have seen Mainsail's excellent articles on shafts, couplings and PSS seals:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/new_shaft

In a reply to another thread http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7305.0.html
Mainsail included a pointer to a youtube video which is an excellent example of a machinist properly fitting and facing a shaft coupling.
http://youtu.be/RyKUsnCymbY

I just removed my own coupling and shaft this past week and the yard had an excellent puller (pusher) for getting the coupling off. I don't know the brand but you may find it with google. Mine was a split coupling on a stainless shaft which has been on since  -2000. I think the split coupling is superior. By now you have probably decided on getting a new shaft so you will just cut the old one (probably already have). Why not throw the old coupling along with the old shaft and get a new split cpling. Mainsail has allot to say about NOT reusing couplings over and over again so it all makes some sense.

[Indian Falls]

Wow Fred, I wish I could just drive up there and help you with that.  I just did all of that last year. I pulled my own prop off, I pulled the coupling off, I pulled the shaft out, I made my own cutlass bearing install/removal tool, and because I'm a relatively good mechanic, I had no trouble doing this without damaging anything.  That yard has no business working on boats in my opinion.

I tried to straighten just a bit of runout on my bronze prop shaft with no luck. That thing does not bend as easy as you think.  I was only trying to remove about .005'' runout and no matter what I did I could not get that shaft to change.  I had thought that I'd bent the shaft fouling a line twice, but I'm pretty certain that this won't do it.  If they pulled your prop with a two jaw it will mess the shaft end and the prop but not bend the shaft unless they somehow apply leverage to some outside fixture.  A little heat and the right 3 jaw and my prop came right off.  No amount of tapping on the back side would do it as was my first attempt. Another thing: this is how to use a puller, any puller: apply a great amount of pressure with the puller. do not keep tightening and wait for it to pop.  Once you have a great deal of pressure use a large heavy hammer and smack the puller nut ONCE, tighten a bit more, smack again, repeat.  Use heat to coax the last few whacks if it doesn't pop off in a few tries.

I had the prop balanced and straightened, put in the new cutlass and put it all together.  I did post that operation here, and I apologize for not linking it here.  I would relieve the yard of their involvement in this and just do it yourself with the help of this forum.  I'll send you my cutlass tool if want!

[Roc]

Hi Fred,
This post has migrated a bit, talking about couplings.  I suggest you look into a Federal Flexible coupling.  I have one on my boat since just about new and it's great.  Search this site as there are many references to the Federal coupling.  Here's something I found.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5213.0.html