Cynosure's New Holding Tank

[n624ma]

* Warning*  Unconventional installation using non-traditional technologies, viewer discretion advised!    

As some may remember we have been fighting "Head Odor" in the holding tank locker. After a decontamination effort that rivaled a germ warfare protocol I came to believe the unimaginable, the tank was permeated!

We have had the boat for three seasons now and I put a Raritan PH-II in the first year (twice the price of a Jabsco, ten times the value) and replaced all the outlet flex hose to the tank with 1" solid PVC. ( Yes, I know you can't do that . It's too small, too rigid, too .... . But we had this setup on our last boat, an 81 Hunter 33, for six years with no problems)

This winter I pulled the holding tank after flushing and rinsing multiple times at the pump-out then adding two gallons of Clorox and filling with fresh water and leaving it on the mooring for a week followed by a final pump-out (this makes opening lines and fittings much less objectionable). I put pipe plugs in all the openings and another gallon of Clorox in the tank and moved it to the cockpit until the new tank installation was complete. This spring as soon as the weather warmed up we had "head odor" in the cockpit. I can now confirm that plastic holding tanks can permeate!

The new Ronco B179 HD is white, you can see the tank level, and I had two vents installed in diagonal corners, the vent tubing is PEX, and the whole run slopes down to the tank. The Pump-out is 1" rigid PVC with a flexible connector at the deck fitting.

About the use of 1" rigid PVC, the PH-II outlet fitting is almost exactly the same inside diameter as 1" PVC pipe and the reduced volume means fewer pump strokes to clear the line to the tank.

I'll do an end of season follow up.

[stevewitt1]

Ok, Stupid question #4,772;

When the old tank is removed to you need to cut the aft retaining wood that is glassed to the hull and liner out to slide the tank out?  I looked at mine yesterday (1989) and there is little wiggle room.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

[n624ma]

Yes, you will need to remove the tabbed in panels on the outboard and aft faces of the tank. An oscillating saw makes it a quick easy task. Just cut the fiberglass tabbing flush with the hull and grind it smooth after the tank is out (this is probably the easiest part of the job).

[Indian Falls]

Joe you and I are leading parallel lives it seems

I just ordered a new tank from the Tank Depot through Nautical Outfitters at $171.00   The shipping and sales tax were just about $265.00 total.  Although I replaced all the 20 year old rubber hoses nylon hoses, pulled the macerator, wasted numerous 20$'s on pureayre, it still stinks after 6 mos on the hard with nothing in the tank.  

I get my new tank in 2 weeks.  Not looking forward to the sawzall work in that compartment but you confirmed that it has to be sawn out so...  Thanks.

What sealant did you use on the fittings that screw into the tank?  I wonder if my tank will have fittings in the top or in the sides?  I did not specify.. I just ordered a RH-B179 and that was that.

In the past 3 weeks I re-read numerous posts about holding tanks, (kind of tough without the search function)  It will be interesting to see if the old tank stinks up anything else besides the dumpster it is inevitably headed for.
Makes me wonder if Ronco made a certain number of tanks from a new suppliers', plastics and then switched back after a time. That scenario plays out often in all manner of business, so to me would be no surprise to have a number of these becoming permeated from that reason.  

Keep us all posted.  

[n624ma]

I just used several wraps of teflon tape on the fittings, I special ordered the vent fitting locations.
Do Not use the clear reinforced plastic hose on the vent line. I replaced mine before the tank change and the new hose permeated in a couple of weeks.

[Indian Falls]

Thanks Joe,

I'm planning to use something like  Rector Seal, almost never dries and is used on all oil water gas applications including especially, clean-outs in home sewer drains. 

I have all sanitation hose, and funny thing, the hoses don't smell, just the surface of the tank...

keep us posted!!

[Indian Falls]

Ha! this is a good one! 

My tank from Tank Depot arrived with no holes or threaded anything.

It seems that the optional fitting relocation kit in reality, means that these are your fittings where you want to put them.  "Relocation"... as if it has a connection to relocate...  I didn't want the fitting relocation Kit, I can use my own fittings where they were originally right?  Wrong. 

I see in the photos above that this new tank of Joe's has female pipe fittings apparently formed or welded to the tank.
Joe where did you get that tank made??  Could I still get that done now that the tank is made?

Tank depot wants me to put ordinary thru-hulls in the tank to connect the hoses to, which requires cutting in an inspection plate for access to install them.  This is giving me a weird sick feeling...

If I have to go with thru-hulls, I have to get the 90degree variety.  What about a more permanent thru-hull installation?  Most thru-hulls have a rubber gasket.  Is that going to be sufficient for 20 years?  Should I get a more permanent type of gasket .. silicone rubber maybe?  Is there a thru-hull that utilizes an oring? Or would it be better to use 3M5200 to glue it all in?  Should I never use a thru-hull for this application?

I never heard of any of this nonsense before anywhere and I've been researching tank problems for a while.

I'm not sure what to do with this thing.

Removing my tank was easier than I anticipated.  I did not treat the tank with numerous pumpouts and clorox but I haven't used it since last September. The plywood glassed to the hull let go easily with a good old 3/4'' wood chisel and a hammer.  Just tap a sharp corner into the joint corner and break the glass and epoxy.  No room for mechanical tools anyway.  Once out of the way the tank slips right out.  I found no evidence of leaks or cracks or seeping anything.  The smell in that compartment is tough to get rid of.  I first used bilge cleaner. Then I used Orange cleaner. Then I used Oven cleaner followed by orange cleaner again.  The next day you could still smell that "off" mildly offensive septic smell.  So out came the clorox and water which has immediate results but don't know for how long.  Next will be a thick coat of Bilge Coat paint.  If I ever sort out my connectivity problem.  All in all with that tank out of there the boat smells 100x better. 

[mregan]

I ordered a tank directly from Ronco Plastics on my old boat.  Picked the tank I wanted.  Gave them exact dimensions and sizes where I wanted the holes.  Showed up a few weeks later with everything right where I wanted it.

[Stu Jackson]

Dan,

try www.pureayre.com

[Indian Falls]

Tank Depot website has Ronco tanks all over it...  so if you order a Ronco B179 from them it is clear to point out "no fitting supplied".  What does that mean to you?  I know it meant I could use my old fittings or buy my own at home depot or whatever.. NOT that the tank has no holes , no threaded bosses, no nothing...

Update:
Tank depot has seen the error in their website and has offered to send me another tank with the NPT threaded holes.  That's nice and all but now it will have been about 5 weeks to get to this point and I can't go without a holding tank any longer.

In the mean time I have found that the compartment the tank resides in just stinks!!!  There has been no tank in there and numerous cleanings with all manner of things.  However the only thing that worked so far is PAINT.
I painted the entire compartment and the one next to it with Oil alklyd rustoleum high gloss white for wood, fiberglass, plastic.  I painted the old holding tank with rustoleum primer for plastics then it's getting a coat of the gloss.

As for the tank not being able to permeate... I stand by my nose, the tank without a doubt stinks.