Draining engine oil

thombarton · December 07, 2011, 06:46:05 AM

I have the Universal 35 in my 1998 Mark 11 with the capped engine oil drain line coming to the front of the engine. I don't know how to connect this line to the intake on my hand pump. I have read earlier postings on changing engine oil and also the Universal manual, but cannot find mention of the thread size or how to connect the drain line to my Jabsco hand pump.
To this point I have been pumping out of the dip stick hole. This is messy and I don't think as efficient a way to get all the used oil out.
Any help would be appreciated.
Tom

Stewartn · December 07, 2011, 08:21:09 AM

It's a 1/4" NPT Female that attaches to the male (upper) end of the drain tube. Find one at an auto parts store and just clamp it to the larger hose from your hand pump. Found the secret to getting all oil out is 1. get it hot, 2. Open or loosen the oil fill cap on top of the engine. You'll hear it suck air when all the used oil is out (about 4 qts on a Univ. 35B). Rgds. Stewartn, Desiree, C34 Mk II, # 1472.

Ken Juul · December 07, 2011, 08:39:31 AM

Each pump is different. Without seeing pictures hard to give an exact answer. I do as Stewart does, remove the plug from the drain line, slide the input end of the pump over the drain line and secure with a hose clamp. Pump till the engine is empty. No matter which method you use, used diesel oil is messy.

Stu Jackson · December 07, 2011, 08:50:22 AM

Tom, what I did was take the seal cap off the hose and bring it to my favorite boating store: ACE Hardware, plumbing department. I got a fitting to match those threads that connect to my hand pump to suck the oil out, and avoid the dipstick dipsh*t. Pretty easy, and then you can't go wrong on what you buy.

See reply #7 here for a sketch of what I did: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2923.0.html

Roc · December 07, 2011, 10:02:06 AM

The points that Stewart said are correct. One thing I would mention is when you hear air sucking through, just stop pumping and wait several minutes, then pump again. Do this a few times and you'll find just about every drop comes out. After I change the oil and run the engine to check for leaks, the oil on the dipstick is a very clean amber. People that try to suck it out the dipstick hole end up leaving dirty oil in the crankcase because not all the oil can be removed. The result is dirty looking oil just after you went through the process of changing it. I like the Universal drain hose on the bottom of the pan.

Jim Hardesty · December 07, 2011, 10:51:01 AM

Tom,
I think that other replies have more than covered the drain hose issue. Now my 2 scents on the real PITA the horizontal oil filter from hell. Actually, I think, I have it exercised. I cut up the perfect sized plastic container to just fit, think that it held pool chemical. After that is in place. I loosen the filter with a filter wrench, about 1/4 turn, not enough to leak but so I can take it off by hand. Then I use a sharp awl to punch one hole in the bottom and one near the top of the filter so the oil will drain into the container. When the oil stops draining, I wipe off the oil and put a couple of pieces of electrical tape over the holes. When the filter comes off little or no oil comes out, as long as it is horizontal or thread side up.
I can change the oil without a drip. Just can't be in a rush. The real important part is not to get the motor mount rubber oily.
Keep that bilge clean.
Jim

Ron Hill · December 07, 2011, 02:35:14 PM

For the M35 engine owners -- I found a shallow plastic pan (2" sides) in a Kitchen store that fits under the engine. After I suck all of the oil out that will come out, I just place the oil drain hose in that pan with a weight on the top of the open end to keep it in the pan. Any remaining old oil will gravity drain into the pan. As mentioned DON"T be in a hurry.

For the M25XP engine owners -- I wrote a Mainsheet Tech note article with a picture showing how to take a small disposable cup, cut the side, drilled a 1/2" hole in the top and inverted it over the port fwd engine mount. It is meant to protect that mount from getting any oil on the rubber during a filter change. Oil or antifreeze will KILL the a rubber engine mount!!

A few thoughts.

thombarton · December 08, 2011, 12:19:14 PM

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I look forward to my next oil change, and after it to see the clean yellowish oil in the motor, rather than the black muck (and less of it on me and the boat)!
Tom

Mike and Joanne Stimmler · December 08, 2011, 01:09:06 PM

Tom,
Don't expect the oil to stay yellow very long (if at all) because it's just the nature of diesel engines for the oil to be black probably after the first use.

Mike

Ron Hill · December 08, 2011, 02:28:20 PM

Mike : Tom will have clean oil for about 75 hours of the 100 hrs between changes because he has an M35BC engine.

The main difference is that his engine has the oil drain at the rear of the engine oil pan rather than near the front - like yours.
That's why (a few years back) that I mentioned that if you have to remove your M25XP engine - to drop the pan and make that change. Your clean oil is mixing with some of the old oil, because you can't drain all of your old oil out.

been there / done that . A thought

Stu Jackson · December 08, 2011, 02:40:25 PM

Ron's right, and we've been here before. I got way over black oil in my M25 years ago. I get 87.5% of my old oil out every change (3.5 out of 4). Pretty good average. That's why they make oil filters. 2,480 engine hours. I've been going 100 - 150 hours between changes.