Counter tops...

[paule]

Sorry lance we are out of them
Paul

[MikeinLA]

Hello Lance - I just happened upon this thread and if you have decided that the Admiral must be obeyed, I can tell you that I tiled both the galley and head counters on my previous Cat 36 and the results were BRILLIANT. I will briefly explain what I did, but you are welcome to email me at Homewest@socal.rr.com for more details. Preparation - I removed the sink and used sandpaper to scuff the Formica. I had a friend who had given me the idea and he just tiled up to the refer & food locker edges and then tiled the tops, but this looked messy to me. So, I cut and installed 1" wide 1/4 " thick teak battens to frame both the openings and the lids. The battens were screwed in with the screw holes countersunk & plugged. This allowed me to tile up to the teak framing for a very neat appearance. Before tiling, I varnished the teak frames. Slight digression, but I'll add that in the case of the folding refer lid, I used steel strips from beneath to turn it into one solid lid with new beefy hinges on the rear and a beefier lift handle. Anyway, I then used 2" square tiles and (very important) epoxy mortar to lay the tiles. Note, I did not remove the counter's edge fiddles but rather tiled right up to them. For the lids, I tiled within the frames. Note that with the 1/4" teak and 1/4" tiles, there was a perfect match and the wood almost looked "inlayed" in the counter when it was done. Simply grout and replace the sink. (You can be a bit messy trimming the tiles where they meet the sink hole, as the lip of the sink will cover your mistakes). The head was a snap, just remove & replace the sink. I probably kept that boat for 5 years after the tile was done and never had any cracking. I liked the scale of the 2" tiles, but I have seen it done with standard 5-6" counter tiles and it might be easier with fewer tiles to trim. Anyway, I loved it. Let me know if you have any questions.

Mike

[Lance Jones]

Mike,
That is what we're planing to do. The 2" tiles are easier to work with. Interesting thought on the refer lid. Do you have any images?

[MikeinLA]

Hi Lance -

Unfortunately this was all pre-digital, however the upgrades did get a 2 page spread in the Mainsheet in the late 80's. I still have the copy and will see what I can do about the photos. Just think about the dry food locker. Now, take off the lid. Imagine 4 pieces of teak batten screwed into the countertop framing the edge of the opening with the corners neatly beveled picture frame style. Now, take the lid. Imagine another four battens with the same corner bevels screwed into the top of the lid framing the outer edge. If you now set the lid into the opening, you will have the teak edges of the lid setting into the teak "frame" around the opening. You fasten 2 hinges to the teak on the back edges of the inner and outer frame to make it a hinged lid. You tile within the "frame" on the lid and tile the countertop up to the edge of the "frame" on the opening. The tiles and battens both being 1/4" makes it a nice smooth counter. Take my word for it, it's really pretty after you varnish the teak. I wish you were closer, I could do it again in about 1/2 hour. I'll see what I can do about those pictures.

Mike