Mast down winter storage

[Chris]

Just learned that when our boat (ChriSea #832) is hauled out this fall we will have to de-mast for storage.  We had not expected this and it was a bit of a shock, but then we thought it might be a good opportunity for some special maintenance projects.  We need to re-bed chainplates, and I would think having the mast down would give a chance to allow for drying out and re-bedding.  Are there other things we should be thinking about checking/fixing while the mast is down?  Also should we expect any problems with de- masting and re-masting?
And lastly, I read in tech notes about using alcohol to help displace water that has leaked into the deck core before re-bedding chainplates.  How is this done?
Thanks to all.

[Jim Price]

Not having to do that yet (Lady Di is in the South)I would think you should look at the opportunity to replace any wiring, sheaves, nut /bolts, etc. while you have to time to refurbish / replace the items.  Rebedding is an excellant task to complete and you will have time for curing to set up. Don't forget the backstays.  Most folks do not get the time to do this type of work.  The mast may be a candidate for refinishing also, but that is an area I have no experience or advice.  I don't want to drop a mast unless absolutely necessary but would love the opportunity to do work at "ground level".

Good luck...

[Roc]

I believe the chainplates should be rebedded while the mast is up, when the shrouds are under tension.  However, other mast inspection items are easier done while the mast is down.

Roc-

[c34member]

I am fortunate enough to over-winter in a marina that requires mast removal.  Lucky me.  I agree that the chainplates are best bedded under tension, as that is how they will spend the season.  (I'm not aboard in the winter so I don't get dripped on if it then leaks when the tension is off).  I used a 3/16" burr on my Dremel tool and chewed a channel in the deck all around each chainplate to the depth of about 1/4".  I believe this helps to seal the tang as it forms a gasket once filled with caulk.  I used the Liquid Life Caulk after wiping all metal with the Life Caulk cleaner/primer (don't forget the bottoms of the cover plates) when I re-sealed all of the chainplates a year and a half ago.  No leaks yet, though the caulk has discolored to a light brown.  

Check all of your sheaves for smoothness and all electrical connections.  Inspect all of the shroud and stay connectors for cracking, fraying or wear.

[Stu Jackson]

Chris

It's also a great time to both clean and wax the rig, check any and all of the pop rivet and/or screwed connections on the stainless plates for corrosion, clean off the spreaders, touch up paint, and most importantly, get rid of the amp hour monster eating anchor light.  I replaced mine with a Davis Mega Light that has a built in light sensor to turn it off at dawn, and uses hardly any power.

You also get to check all the wiring connections and should replace all the bulbs to avoid having to go up to do it later.  

We also "installed" a good luck coin at the mast step under the mast (keel stepped mast).

One thing not discussed in the responses, so far, has been re-stepping.  My yard installed "new" wooden partner chocks and it's taken a year to get them settled in and to have them stop making scary "crack!" sounds when sailing.  Alternatives are Spartite for the partners.  Just make sure when they stick the stick back in that it's straight.

[Roc]

Speaking of cleaning the mast, what works well to clean the grime off anodized aluminum???

Thanks!
Roc-

[rappareems]

Chris,

Here on Lake Ontario there is a mixed bag of mast up and mast down storage.  Personally, I take my spar down every Fall.  Somehow the image of 50 Knot breezes blowing off the lake on a boat with its spar up and in a cradle makes me uncomfortable, no give.  Quite frankly, all spars came off 20 years ago.  I put in Spartite this Spring and it has been a major contributor to keeping the rig tuned. I greased it rather well on input and hope it serves me well at spar off. Having the spar down enables you to look over every part of your rig and it can change very quickly.  To be honest I would be "shocked" at having to keep the spar up!

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

[jentine]

Chris, I couldn't imagine removing the mast each autumn.  Jentine has not had the mast out of the boat since it was installed 10 years ago.  I regularly inspect the shrouds, chain plates, swages, running rigging, standing rigging and sheaves with the mast up.  
The main reason to remove the mast annually is to generate income for the marina.  The marina generally charges nearly as much to remove and store the mast as to remove and store the entire vessel.
The main problem with mast removal is breakage.  Marinas are not concerned with your wiring or accessories mounted on the mast, but in quick removal.  Wires that do not easily disconnect are generally cut.  What happens to the rollerfurler that is difficult?  What happens to the backstay mounted radar?  You fill in the blanks.
If the base where the boat is stored for the winter is solid, the boat is properly chocked and the stands are chained together, there will be no need to worry about the wind blowing the boat over.  I typically see hundreds of boats stored throughout New England for the winter with the masts up.
Jim Kane