rocker switches for cabin lights

[dhagen]

When it got cold here in TX, I turned on the circuit breaker for the cabin lights and then hit the rocker switch on the fixture itself.  I hear a snap, but the light didn't come on. Now the switch won't stay in either the on or off position.  I tried several other fixtures and the same thing happened.  I took the switch itself out of the fixture, but don't know where to find one.  Any thoughts or anybody else had a similar problem?
Thanks,
Dan Hagen
La Buena Vida

[Ted Pounds]

Sounds like it was a plastic 'spring' inside the switch which got brittle in the cold and broke.  I would suggest replacing it with a different switch if you can.  One that will hold up in the cold.  Might try Radio shack to see if they have a switch that will fit.  Good luck.

[Ron Hill]

Dan : You didn't give your hull # or production year!!  Because you said circuit breaker I'll guess that you have a 1988 or later.
I've never seen a C34 main electrical panel that didn't have a switch on it that wasn't being used!  Take that switch out and put in place of the "cabin light" switch.  In an emergency - because you have a circuit breaker - you could always connect the + & - wires together (at the back of the bad switch) and use the breaker as a ON/OFF "switch" !

Contact Seaward (562)699-7997 and order youself a new switch.  A few thoughts

[dhagen]

It is a 2001.  The problem is not at the cirucuit breaker.  It is at the light fixture.  The little rocker switches on the lights broke.  I may try Radio Shack as suggested by Ted.
Thanks,
Dan

[Breakin Away]

I'll resurrect this old thread because I'm having the exact same problem on the same vintage boat (2001 MkII). A rocker switch on one of my white swivel eyeball dome lights suddenly broke today. It was about 50°F in the cabin, so not terribly cold, but about 20-40°F cooler than normal operating temperatures. I have another switch in the V-berth that's getting unreliable (which is a more hazardous than complete failure of the switch), so it's time to think about replacing all eight of them. I don't want to replace the whole fixture, especially since I've replaced the original incandescent bulbs with really nice warm white 4W LEDs, and there's no corrosion or other issues in any of the fixtures.

(FWIW, I did an identical repair on my old C250 red swivel spots rather than replace the whole fixtures.)

So far I've found two possibilities that come close:

This one is the closest cosmetic match, but supplier is in UK. Also might be a tiny bit too wide:

https://www.abcomponents.co.uk/rocker-switch-a11132200000/

This one looks to be the best I have found overall. I actually wouldn't mind having 1/0 printed on the switches, since that can provide useful guidance if a bulb is burnt out. This is the same seller who supplied the switches for my C250 spots. I've sent an inquiry about UL listing and other safety concerns:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Home-White-Rocker-Switch/dp/B075TKH65W

I'd welcome better suggestions if any of you have addressed this problem before.

[tgsail1]

I purchased a very similar switch (as the uxcell) with the same specs last year for LED lights on my dodger. I've had no problem with them. The quality is hit and miss though so keep spares. Your load on the fixture is very low, particularly with LED bulbs, but for future reference AC rated switches need to be derated for DC operation. In your listing you can see, that they recommend limiting the DC use to less than 0.5 A, which is more than a factor of 10 derating. Your 4W bulb draws 0.33A.   

[Ron Hill]

Guys : FYI, Sea Dog brand makes a replacement for the larger rocker switches in the 1988 electrical panel.

[Breakin Away]

Just to clarify, I'm looking for rocker switches for on the light fixtures, not for in the electrical panel.

[KWKloeber]

You might check the Carling online catalog for the rockers that they have, and then once you have a part number google it or check sources like Newark or Waytek or Mouser or Digi-key

kk

[Ron Hill]

Dan : Take the light fixture off from the overhead and you should be able to pop out the rocker switch.
With old switch in hand look at Electrical shops &, Lowe's/HD. 

Most of those switches are standard sizes.

A thought

[Breakin Away]

FYI, Dan's post was almost 8 years ago, and he hasn't been here for over 7 years.

I found a lighting website that lists the exact replacement parts from Frilight:

http://www.12voltledlights.com/Rocker-Switch-sw87072-for-FriLight-Spot-Gyro-8707-and-87072_p_1068.html#

I'll order from them if I need to, but SailorSams.com is another Frilight dealer that I've done business with before who lists the whole assembly. I've sent them an email asking if they can order in the rocker switches separately, so I'll give them a few days to respond. I prefer to work with these same guys again if I can, since they were very fast and flexible with my prior order.

[bayates]

It will be great if you find them. I had the same issue on Hakuna Matata and ended up replacing the entire fixture. I found the original Catalina supplier and originally they sold me the fixture complete for $9 the the following year for $15. So I bought spares. They did not sell The switch separate. I have been looking for just the switch as I have one acting funky right now.

[Rortega46]

Breaking Away, I have the same issue and will order the rocker switch if i know the replacement part.  Did you hear back from SailorSams.com yet?

[Breakin Away]

FYI, I had a quality problem with the supposedly "genuine" Frilight switches from SailorSams, so I returned them. The switches from uxcell on Amazon exceeded their listed amperage spec, so that they would be safe even if a future owner installed a 10w incandescent bulb. So I'm using them as replacements and they seem to be working fine.